valve springs
#1
valve springs
Hey guys, i posted this in the LT1 tech, but i wanted to get some more answers. I am thinking about getting the comp beehive springs (26915) with my cc305 and crange gold 1.6 ratio rockers. Are those the right springs for me or should i go with the comp 26918's. Also i was going to use the steel retainers(insted of Ti) and 648-16 locks. Will these springs fit in the stock seats? Do you all see any other probs. i might run into? Thanks for the help
#2
I'm curious too. I am getting the Crane 210/224. I was planning on the 918's b/c there are a lot of these for slae on the LS1 boards. I plan on using the same keepers and the 787-16 retainers. I wasn't able to find any more info for use on an LT1.
#3
The main issue is the installed height and how to achive it.
I've setup some beehives on some SBC heads and I can hook you up with the proper springs, retainers and locks. The 787's sometimes will work and sometimes not. Not giving out PN's so don't ask.
Either beehive spring will work for you on a 305
Bret
I've setup some beehives on some SBC heads and I can hook you up with the proper springs, retainers and locks. The 787's sometimes will work and sometimes not. Not giving out PN's so don't ask.
Either beehive spring will work for you on a 305
Bret
#4
Not trying to spread rumors, but my engine builder has had nothing but problems with the beehives on LS1 builds - They kept beaking. Here's someone else' experience with the subsequent "batch" of springs that had been fixed:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...eehive+springs
I'd let someone else be the guinea pig.
Ryan
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...eehive+springs
I'd let someone else be the guinea pig.
Ryan
Last edited by 96speed; 06-13-2004 at 11:21 PM.
#5
The difference with the "stripe color" is the deal. Any batch of springs can have a bad batch. Saying XXX spring is junk because they have a bad batch is plain ignorance of reality of production capabilities.
Guniea Pig stage has been out for a long time. The reason they break is that they don't get changed. .600 lift is not chump change, and springs are now a wear item especially with the XE-R lobes that everyone is using. So throw a really aggressive lobe and high lift at a spring and at some point in time it will break. Less agressive lobes are going to help that at some point too.
Comments like this are laughable
"Plus, something new that's starting to come out about these conical and beehive springs is that they make excessive noise that trips the knock sensor and pulls timing out of the motor. The noise is coming from the top two coils, where you have a small coil on top of a big one. Apparently they are meshing together and making a knocking noise that the sensor doesn't like."
The physics of the spring is opposite of that actually, but then again lack of knowledge can be a dangerous thing.
The solution to this is to go to a dual spring setup. That's taking a step back and in reality the inner spring or outer spring is not going to save much since a big chunk of the seated and rate will be gone. There is a safety net, which is true but it comes at a price.
Bret
Guniea Pig stage has been out for a long time. The reason they break is that they don't get changed. .600 lift is not chump change, and springs are now a wear item especially with the XE-R lobes that everyone is using. So throw a really aggressive lobe and high lift at a spring and at some point in time it will break. Less agressive lobes are going to help that at some point too.
Comments like this are laughable
"Plus, something new that's starting to come out about these conical and beehive springs is that they make excessive noise that trips the knock sensor and pulls timing out of the motor. The noise is coming from the top two coils, where you have a small coil on top of a big one. Apparently they are meshing together and making a knocking noise that the sensor doesn't like."
The physics of the spring is opposite of that actually, but then again lack of knowledge can be a dangerous thing.
The solution to this is to go to a dual spring setup. That's taking a step back and in reality the inner spring or outer spring is not going to save much since a big chunk of the seated and rate will be gone. There is a safety net, which is true but it comes at a price.
Bret
#6
Originally posted by SStrokerAce
The difference with the "stripe color" is the deal. Any batch of springs can have a bad batch. Saying XXX spring is junk because they have a bad batch is plain ignorance of reality of production capabilities.
Guniea Pig stage has been out for a long time.
The difference with the "stripe color" is the deal. Any batch of springs can have a bad batch. Saying XXX spring is junk because they have a bad batch is plain ignorance of reality of production capabilities.
Guniea Pig stage has been out for a long time.
The poster of that thread had the blue stripped springs (notice the thread title). That is the "new batch," right?
I have never met (nor has anyone I know of) anyone using these on an LT1. Obviously, as far as a valvespring is concerned an sbc/LT1 is the same thing, but I think its a good idea to let everyone know what little info is out there.
I agree that a bad batch is possible, and it would be silly to write off CompCams...defects happen. However, bad batch or not, these motors are too expensive for most of us to chance a failure of something like a valvespring (Revkit, anyone?). Regardless of what you or I say/think, its understandable to see why someone would run away from a spring that has broken multiple times on multiple cars.
I am trying to bring a little bit of info to the table. I don't think its out of context either. Just as you quote OldSS "...lack of knowledge is a dangerous thing," I don't want someone to see you say how good these springs are in a few threads and then run out to buy a used set of the "bad batch" and, as we say in Tejas, "boomshakalaka" their motor.
Ryan
#7
Well meet your first guy to run beehives on a LT1. I've run them on a few motors already.
As I said the XE-R LS1 lobes are not designed to work with a beehive spring, but yet they run them with one for 20K miles and they break.
I've know about those spring problems for a long time now, I still run them.
Not busting on you, but I wouldn't run them if I felt they are all going to go boom.
Bret
As I said the XE-R LS1 lobes are not designed to work with a beehive spring, but yet they run them with one for 20K miles and they break.
I've know about those spring problems for a long time now, I still run them.
Not busting on you, but I wouldn't run them if I felt they are all going to go boom.
Bret
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