Care to share your design fabrication pictures?

 

Sorry, no pics of the prototype oil separator yet. Here is a link to multiple pics I took @ fab and install. I have mode changes to the system, which are the vac pump receiver (oil separator). The GZMS unit did not work well for me. From multiple road tests, the vane oil system is working. How good I will not know untill this winter when I can disassemble the pump and measure the pump vanes. B.
http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/n...eg_covermt.jpg

 

you have any pics of your mandrel for the vac pump?

 

Here is what I did...
Purchased a standard drive from GZmotorsports.
Made a 1.48" extension. ( Round 2" piece with a dowel pin/ 1.48" long))
Made a pilot on each piece to center the assembly. Note... the GZMS piece was re-machined due to excessive eccentricity.
I use a special hub that fits into the stock LT1 hub ( now I use a Thunder racing LT1 hub - Pioneer Mfg. They are a very nice piece with a key)
Since I run on the street (set-up for road racing), I do not use an agressive rpm drive (about a 65% drive). I followed the GZMS recommendations. For drag racing I would use a larger pulley on the pump (a 70% + DRIVE).
My GZMS pump (VP103) is mounted to the Rt. motor compartment Frame rail. I made a spring tensioner to load the single V-belt which is driven off the crank shaft.
So far, I am happy with the set-up.
With a wet sump system, you need a pressure regulator to allow 1/3 atmosphere vac. I made my own due to clearance problems.
I fabricated my own receiver tank since GZMS tank did not flow well for me, and changed the mount to inside the front bumper facia.
I'm not sure of your set-up, but, possibly i could offer help if you need assistance. I would not want to carry this communication over the camaroz28 site.
The vac system requires that you re-locate your rad forward with a FI application (I have a Procharger D1). It was alot of work, but worth it since it takes alot of heat off the engine compartment. I have since gone to Evans NPG waterless coolant for additional cooling (read HP1425 book). Don't understand why I have not seen interrest on camroz28 web-site, but WTH???
Yes, I like my system as I have it configured for FI. I have not seen any other system here in MI. Most people don't care anyway (alot of "shiners" here), and, they don't really know what they are looking at. SO... I'm not so hyped about what I did anymore, but, it works good.
Hope this helps. B.

 

I'm all motor and have planty of room etc.

My only concern now is a mandrel. I am using a keyed hub but the damper assembly is the ATI unit. I have an alt. on the pass side on the bottom.

I was going to get the kit to put the pump on the driver side head. saw your pics and everything also.....they helped some but my set-up is alot simpler than yours, I just bracket race. And I have alot more room so I think it will be easier too

 

I agree, Rt side of car is where you want it.
I think you would not need the 1.48" spacer since you do not have to clear the blower pulley drive (I run a 7.625"pd 12 rib pulley).
I would stay with the VP103 since it has fitting ports on the side and not the rear of the pump. Possibly you could use a round (cylindrical) spacer mount with a 7/16 fine thread clearance insert inside the hub with a 1/8 roll pin for a torque arm.
The regulator is easy to design, size the spring force and piston for 1/3 atmosphere. (5 psi) I stuffed mine in a valve cover 1.25" port. Yes, I could fabricate a second unit. I have tested it and it works well. GZMS was also asking how I did it. Very simple, and adjustable zero to 1 atm.
I think you could mount the pump to the front of the engine (3/8 - 16 thread mounts all over the place.) I fabricated all my own stuff, and, hope you can do the same.
I would try to place the pump low so you can clear the stock rad assembly, but, it is very tight inside a 4th gen MC with the way gm designed the rad system. There is not much room for an air receiver can. I still think the bumper is an ideal location. I fabricated mine from spare 3 1/2" exhaust pipe I had.
I would not do what I did for a NA aplication, but, I think you would be very happy with the increase in cylinder pressure.
I think it is the only way to go for a FI application even though alot of people still think exhaust/ intake evac is the easy solution. FI systems always ingest alot of oil with the evac method. I don't like blow-thru MAF systems on the pressure side since they tend to fail from oil passsage. Also, the intake manifold ingests alot of oil. Quite a mess. B.

 

That's about 10" of vacume? sounds right... most manufacturers suggest 10" to 12" for max benfits without oiling isssues. How'd you make the tank?
because it's been used with mixed success by several members and those they know. I saw two cars equpped with Evans, but they both ran hotter than a similarly equipped water coolant (by design). Frankly, you may have a coolant that resists boiling out to hotter temps, but the problem is that you STILL have the increased heat in the engine bay. Having an engine that runs 200* or 230* coolant means oil temps near 230 or 260*F respectively.

This means the engine bay gets radiated additional heat, the plastics and rubber hose have to be watched more carefully, and of course there are the ring gaps and other engine clearances that tighten-up at higher heats as everything expands. If you run synthetic oil and have a stock block (with generous OEM gaps/tolerances) you'll probably be fine... but for those running higher compression ratios and tighter ring gaps this could be a problem in hot summer trips.

Personally I use a 165 stat, e-pump, and 2" core radiator for my 396... I don't see the need to go with more expensive coolant and the accessories that go with it. Anything that keeps the opti and electrical harness cooler is a better solution IMO... and Evan's coolant just doesn't do that. Going out of your way to run hotter temps than normal isn't a great idea IMO.

 

No, I don't have an overheat problem. I ran a 160*F also with water glycol. It would run about 185*F steady state. I like Evans NPG. It's all there in HP books 1425 (Ray Bohaz). I have an aftermarket be-cool rad. It took 3 1/2 gal. (32.50/gal) The 2nd gen gm small block WP requires that the bypass port be plugged. So, I did that. No thermostat.