Top end fpr a serious 383/396
Rick Intrau didnt bust his until around 1500 flywheel hp.
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Feb 5, 2007 at 10:41 PM.
trying to do this is just pissing in the wind......if you ask me
Even if you do get it where you want with the h.p. it will never be durable at that level, and the money you would spend you could just buy a motor turn key......Motors at that power range running N/A aren't running pump gas either
Even if you do get it where you want with the h.p. it will never be durable at that level, and the money you would spend you could just buy a motor turn key......Motors at that power range running N/A aren't running pump gas either
If you say it will fit I have no proof that it wont. I have researched it and have found that it wont by people here on the boards.
Converting you have to weld in inj bungs, fuel rail mounts, buy new fuel rails, a new regulator, lines, elbow, new TB, TPS sensor, ect... and possibly a new hood
. I just found that in order to do it right you have to spend quite a bit.
Converting you have to weld in inj bungs, fuel rail mounts, buy new fuel rails, a new regulator, lines, elbow, new TB, TPS sensor, ect... and possibly a new hood
. I just found that in order to do it right you have to spend quite a bit.Intakeelbows.com does the conversion for:
$175 for the EFI conversion, standard SBC bolt pattern, including bungs.
$140 for his machined billet fuel rails.
$220 for his sheetmetal elbow to fit an LT1 throttlebody or monoblade. I think these prices are right as I can't find my reciept.
You can machine one end of the rail to accept the factory style regulator, but if you are making 600+ hp, you need to feed both rails equally and need a standalone regulator no matter what intake you have. That equates to lines also.
His elbow will fit under a stock hood, I feel pretty sure it will.
David
trying to do this is just pissing in the wind......if you ask me
Even if you do get it where you want with the h.p. it will never be durable at that level, and the money you would spend you could just buy a motor turn key......Motors at that power range running N/A aren't running pump gas either
Even if you do get it where you want with the h.p. it will never be durable at that level, and the money you would spend you could just buy a motor turn key......Motors at that power range running N/A aren't running pump gas either
Not on a 23* head for sure. Mindgame and N20 Dave got in that ballpark on pumpgas, also another guy on Corvetteforum.com.....all with 18* type stuff on a LT1 block. Mindgame made 570 to the tire with a 383 a six speed and a old school GM 18* head, drove it pretty regular and ran some 9.70's all motor with it.
David
This is the area where I differ from most of you......I don't know why you would want that much poer on the street, I don't
If I need 700 h.p. a sure want it to be in a safe car and a purpose built car. I allready learned my lessons
I'm not saying this stuff can't be done, i'm saying the time effort and money invested is a waste when all is said and done
If I need 700 h.p. a sure want it to be in a safe car and a purpose built car. I allready learned my lessons
I'm not saying this stuff can't be done, i'm saying the time effort and money invested is a waste when all is said and done
2.0hp/1ci is sufficient on a higher dollar raised runner 23* head.. but that's not pump gas either... i say build it how you want it, and accept the #'s you get in the end.. as long as you did it your way they're is no excuses!!
Thats the approach I am going for, I was just looking for some input on the intake side of the operation. I could careless what the dyno says I just want everything to be working together.
With the right pieces ya can come DAMN close to 700FWHP on pump gas.
BIG heads,300/315ADV cam,13.5 compression(DCR 9-1)Purpose built intake,not converted carb with different length runners. Ya can always get a FAST if ya want more than 7200RPM's
BIG heads,300/315ADV cam,13.5 compression(DCR 9-1)Purpose built intake,not converted carb with different length runners. Ya can always get a FAST if ya want more than 7200RPM's
Exacley what I am going for. Have DFI to get me past the 7000rpn hurdle.
"Big heads" and "Purpose built intake": exactley why I started this thread, can you elaborate on what some good options would be?? I was thinking AFR227's and a converted but if I could find a good deal on a sheet metal piece I would.
Thanks
Troy
http://home.gci.net/~jimlab/images/E...vered/Dyno.jpg
http://home.gci.net/~jimlab/images/E...uild_sheet.jpg
http://home.gci.net/~jimlab/images/E.../Head_flow.jpg
http://home.gci.net/~jimlab/images/E...d/PA030002.JPG
Untuned, with ignition breakup, my 396 made 640.8 horsepower before what should have been peak power, and recovered to almost 640 later. I guess you can revise that statement above.

It may have been capable of 670-675 horsepower NA when final tuned according to Brian (B&B), but I never sorted the ignition issue out or finished it after it was delivered. Too much bad blood with that engine (long story).
I think most posters are missing the fact that Troy was talking about using a big shot of nitrous to achieve 750 flywheel horsepower. Since nitrous brings its own oxygen to the party, the limitation of using an LT1/LT4 intake will not be such an issue with a direct port system, although I did point out to him that it won't match up with the raised runners on AFR 215s by a long shot.
Hogan's built it to order for my application.
http://home.gci.net/~jimlab/images/Misc/P2130006.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~jimlab/images/Intake/
http://home.gci.net/~jimlab/images/Misc/P2130006.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~jimlab/images/Intake/



