Advanced Tech Advanced tech discussion. Major rebuilds, engine theory, etc.
HIGH-END DISCUSSION ONLY - NOT FOR GENERAL TECH INFO

Test block after grinding for 383

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 7, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #1  
gex598's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 236
From: Tampa, FL
Test block after grinding for 383

I'm getting ready to start finishing a 383 I've been working on and after reading some other threads I'm a little worried about hitting a water jacker. Is there a way to test the block prior to install to see if there will be a problem? I dont see any openings but that doesnt comfort me. Can I some how pressure test the block to make sure there are no leaks? Here are some pic of the work I did.





Thanks Jason
Old Jan 8, 2007 | 08:03 AM
  #2  
77LT1's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 67
Did you use your rods to come up with that grinding pattern? It's hard to tell if you've taken out enough material or not without the rods in there. Also, you need to tell us what rods you plan on using etc. I ground on my block quite a bit and never hit the water jacket. I used H-beam rods on mine with 12 pt bolts and still had enough clearance. I didn't have to grind the bolts any to get the clearance. Sorry no pics.

B
Old Jan 8, 2007 | 08:49 AM
  #3  
gex598's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 236
From: Tampa, FL
I'm using Eagle I-beams with ARP 12point bolts. I know they clear as thats how I marked the spots to grind. I'm just worried that I may of taken too much off and opened a waterjacket up. I dont want to install the motor and then find out I have a oil pan full of coolant. Do you think its as simple as just filling the block with water to see if it leaks.

Jason
Old Jan 8, 2007 | 08:51 AM
  #4  
FASTFATBOY's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,935
From: Mobile, Ala..USA
You can still grout the block to the freeze plugs if you wanted, just have to go about it the right way.



David
Old Jan 8, 2007 | 04:47 PM
  #5  
WS Sick's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,724
From: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
I used the Scat I beams with the ARP 12 point cap screws and I didn't have to take near as much out as you did !!! How much clearance did you grind in?
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 10:15 AM
  #6  
gex598's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 236
From: Tampa, FL
Ample!!! I kind of got carried away I think. I guess I fill the block with water this afternoon and see if it leaks.
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 03:40 PM
  #7  
WS Sick's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,724
From: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
I have also seen some people run some epoxy filler
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:30 PM
  #8  
AdioSS's Avatar
West South Central Moderator
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,371
From: Kilgore TX 75662
you can pressure test the block. Ask your machine shop if they have the ability to do that.
Old Jan 10, 2007 | 08:21 AM
  #9  
77LT1's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 67
I would think if it got too thin you would see some discoloration of the metal from the block. If you're truly worried about it have it pressure tested like was mentioned above. It took me a while to get the nerve to grind on my block too. It looks to me like you'll be fine. I've seen other blocks ground down way more than that.

B
Old Jan 14, 2007 | 10:35 PM
  #10  
94/96ZsM6s's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 109
From: Ceresco, NE
i dont think you will have any problems...i used 6in h eagle beams and arp bolts in my 396 with no issues at all....
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
D1SC383LT4
Parts For Sale
1
Jan 26, 2015 01:41 PM
naaz90
Site Help and Suggestions
3
Jul 27, 2002 08:22 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:36 PM.