I used the search feature and found this very question asked:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...lshaft+bushing

Since his thread (and his other thread) did not recieve any replies in LT1 Tech, I figured I would post here, as it doesnt seem to be a comon question.

However if the mods feel this should be moved to LT1 Tech - understandable as this may or may not fall under the "advanced" category.

There was one useful reply in that thread above that stated:

"The bushing can be pulled with the tailshaft housing in place, if you've got a slide hammer or can fabricate something."

Does anyone have any further detail about the tailshaft bushing replacement? Will this require a special GM only tool? a "Slide Hammer" if its what I am thinking, will only help in putting the bushing back into place?

If anyone has replaced their tailshaft bushing, please let me know. Any information you can provide would be appreciated.

BTW - this is for a 94 Z28 T-56

The reason I want to replace the bushing is due to some excessive driveshaft vibration - but only when there is little to no load on the drivetrain. I have checked, and double checked pinion angle etc, but the vibration is only occuring at light to no load situations at high speed. I had the car up on jackstands, started it up with it in gear and let it idle - and there appeared to be excessive "play" from the tailshaft. I am hoping I can get away with just replacing the bushing

Thanks!

 

I replaced my tailshaft bushing when I upgraded to a Viper mainshaft and Chrysler yoke. I'm not sure I would even try to replace the bushing with the transmission in the car. I think you'll run into way more problems and have a high risk of boggering things up. Pull the transmission, pull the tailhousing and replace the bushing on a press. Then you'll be able to check fit up and make sure your yoke has running clearance.

Also, If you're have driveshaft vibe problems, check the centering of the rear U joint on the pinion yoke. When I checked mine I found that the rear U joint was running .030 Off center. Root cause of this problem was a Ratec solid pinion sleeve that was machined out of paralellism which threw the pinion yoke off center when it was torqued down.

Steve

 

Thanks for the reply Steve.

From reading the other thread - he makes it sound like the tailshaft bushing can be replaced with the tailshaft housing in place - but you recommend to remove the tainlshaft housing.

I was definetly going to do this with the trans off the car (just ordered a McLeod twin disc) - and if I have to undo the tailshaft housing no biggie I suppose.

I have never opened up a manual transmission before - is it an involved process to just remove the tailshaft housing? Doesnt seem like it would be all that complicated - but sometimes ya never know until you have seen it.

Also, anyone have a good diagram of the T-56?

Thanks for the replies/thoughts - keep em comin!

 

You can pull the tail housing on the T56 without getting very deep into the tranny. This should be done with the transmission sitting vertical with the output shaft up. You won't be far enough in to get into syncros or shift forks. The worst part will be dealing with the detent mechanism. A T56 manual is available from D&D and I would highly reccomend it.

Steve

 

I was the poster in the last thread, and I've had to pull a tailshaft bushing before (installed a new bushing during a rebuild and didn't check the fit between it and the driveshaft yoke before installing the tranny; the bushing was undersized ).

The "tool" that I "fabricated" was a pair of vicegrips and some steel stock that I bent into a hook shape. Stick said hook down one of the lube channels or between the bushing and output shaft, grab the rear edge of the bushing with it, latch on to it with the vice grips, and hammer on the vice grips. Not elegant at all, but I didn't have a slide hammer available.

Removing the tailshaft housing isn't that tough, but getting it back on can be difficult. You don't have to worry about the detent plate, but you've got four items that need to be aligned as the housing slips back on (the main shift rail, the 5th/6th/R rail, the output shaft, and the countershaft extension), and as Steve said this should be done with the transmission mounted vertically on a bench (I actually use a pair of very sturdy steel sawhorses).

 

Would a slide hammer such as:

http://www.autopart.com/Tools/file/part224.htm

Do the trick? Is that piece to thick? or would I have enough room to work with with that tool.

Thanks again guys.

 

Eric is right. I've killed too many brain cells. You won't even have to deal with the detent plate. Should be a piece of cake!