Argh, I thought I'd compile all my data into one post and see what answers come from it.

-Well I got the new heads and solid roller valvetrain installed and had about 50 miles on it. Only ran it to 5k about 3 times, and the last time i did that on the 2nd day i stop at the next light and the car is poring white smoke out of the exhaust. Note there was no smell of coolant and (i have dumps) there seemed to be a little oil on the ground...

So I pulled over in less than a mile and waited for the tow truck. I did start it up once while waiting and there was no smoke at all, but i did let it idle and the temp started rising past the 1/4 mark (which it NEVER does).

Did a compression test and got this:
#1 - 170
#2 - 175
#3 - 175
#4 - 170
#5 - 185
#6 - 160
#7 - 220
#8 - 180

Youd think one would be low... #7 is wierd maybe water in the cyl?

So the heads get pulled, and both the gaskets and heads look fine So to be on the safe side i take the driver side head (since it had the strange 220#) to be pressure tested. It comes back fine except the #7 cyl valve seat is messed up and not sealing. They showed me all the valve seats and they are all pretty flat, cant see where one angle stops and the next angle starts. So i think i might have them do a 3angle valve job on all of them.

But i dont see how the valve seat being messed up could cause white smoke from the exhuast or water/coolant in the oil?

Any thoughts? I am running out of ideas here... Thanks!
(BTW- Fred you can move it if you want )

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Ken Mook - 97' SS #2544
Advanced Tech Posting Guidelines

• ?rwhp & ?rwtq Naturally Aspirated on the Stock Bottom End.
• Stage 3 Pro Performance Heads, Solid Roller 242/248 Cam, Endur-X Lifters,
• Jet Hot Hooker LTs, True Dual 3" Exhaust with x-pipe, and the list goes on and on...

[This message has been edited by kmook (edited July 24, 2002).]

 

ken- the machinist that is doing my heads is going to use a more expensive, softer valve seat to avoid this problem. i'm also getting a valve job and bronze guides. he tells me that this is insurance against one of the valves not sealing, just like you described. you might want to ask your porter or the machine shop that has the heads about doing the same thing.

doesn't seem like this problem should cause all the trouble you've had though. sorry that i don't have any particular insight into that part of it. be sure to let us know what you end up doing to solve the problem.

 

What did the intake to head gasket look like? The intake for #7 is right next to the water passage and maybe the coolant got into the motor from there. That would also give it the chance to get into the oil also. When I just pulled the motor out of my 87 I found a small leak from the passenger side front port on the head. I was glad it was leaking to the outside instead of internally. Hope you find the problem.

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Wayne Best
Best Racing
67 rs Camaro

• 355 cu in Chevy
• 12.5:1 compression
• 10.90s @ 120 mph

87 Formula 350 w/388cu.in. motor

www.geocities.com/best_racing

 

There's no coolant flow through the manifold on LT1s, but I've certainly seen this happen on GenI small-blocks (in fact, I just fixed this problem on my truck).

I thinking that maybe the high compression reading on #7 was the result of coolant in the cylinder when the test was performed. I'm not sure how your cylinder head was tested, but is is possible that you're actually seeing a crack around the exhaust valve seat that's allowing coolant into the cylinder? I know that's not exactly a fun scenario (and it doesn't fully explain the coolant in the oil), but I'd recommend investigating further.

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1996 Impala SS - LT4 396, T56
1996 GMC K2500
1992 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon

 

Thanks for the correction, I didn't pay any attention to the signature section, maybe I should read all of the post before answering I have worked on Gen I blocks scince 84 and that is usually my first train of thought instead of the LT1, LS1 motors.

------------------
Wayne Best
Best Racing
67 rs Camaro

• 355 cu in Chevy
• 12.5:1 compression
• 10.90s @ 120 mph

87 Formula 350 w/388cu.in. motor

www.geocities.com/best_racing

 

If your engine temp went up past what it ever had before, that could be a tell-tale sign of a coolant leak. When my head gasket went south, I did not get the white smoke, but did get higher engine temps and air bubbles in my radiator overflow tank with the engine running. I might mention that my head gaskets looked good but leaked due to an irregular surface and surface finish of my cylinder heads.

In any event, I would have both heads pressure checked and the deck surfaces checked for flatness and surface "RA" finish rating for your particular configuration while you have the engine apart. Cheap insurance to do it now then have to take the engine apart in another 5K miles.

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1987 Trans Am GTA WS6
5.7L SuperRam
4L60-E Trans
3.73 SRD

1987 Pontiac Fiero
3800 Series II SFI
4T60-E Trans
3.33 Final Drive

1987 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab
4.3L Vortec TBI
4L60-E Trans
3.42 Final Drive

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II
318 Semi-Hemi 2bbl
Torqueflite 727 Trans

http://dtcc.cz28.com

 

Update: Well i had both heads pressure checked and everything came back fine except that #7 seat which they fixed, but i dont see how that could cause coolant in the oil, smoking white, etc. And i had them checked and they were straight and did not need to be milled.

And all the CCs and exhaust ports were carboned, which at least one should be clean if coolant was present, correct?

This makes no sense at all. Any other thoughts? Thanks for the help!

 

im not sure if you thought of this at all but could that smoke maybee be from a exausht gasket that has like a little overhang into one of the ports burning up a little??

 

The heads were put back on with new gaskets and torqued to spec, and it does the same exact thing. White smoke and coolant/water out the exhaust.

Anyone have ideas? Im at the end of my rope here.

Some have said well maybe the block is cracked, etc. but i dont see how as this happened right after the new valvetrain went on.

I talked to Nutek and Nick said in all his years he has never come across a cracked block, and im not running a ton of power or ever overheated the car either...

ARGH!

 

Ken Do the compression check again .Conferm that you have the same numbers as before.If you do I think we can assume that water is getting in the #7.Now the million dollar question Where?Do you have another set of head s lying around to throw on.I know you said that you had the heads presure checked But I still wonder if water is getting in from behind the seat or if a small crack has formend behind the seat or into a jacket from over agressive porting.

Remember the only thing that you changed is the heads

If you need a head to throw on to check the drivers side I can send you one.Just send it back when you are done


ED

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95 Formula Solid Roller 9 Inch 4.10 H.D. Locker,6 speed
Best 1/4 12.074 Best MPH 115.56 on STOCK HEADS


94 Hardtop Heads up Drag car


94 Formula A4 Stock
120,000 miles 13.82

Tow Rig 84 suburban 3/4 4wheel drive 388 small block

[This message has been edited by Ed95Pont (edited July 29, 2002).]

 

Thanks Ed, i think i'll have another compression check done along with a leakdown check.

 

Kmook, I feel your pain.

I did a budies car a year or so ago that had the same thing happen. He was running the 215 Raised Runners in his stroker (GTP ported the heads and assembled the engine). The cause was an exhaust crack, due to over porting (although the head had been pressure checked and came out ok). It seems that his head would expand as the car warmed up (only a few seconds), and open up the crack. You might have them port another head and exchange it. Swaping heads on our engines, flat sucks anyway. Why beat your head over something that's more than likely a head issue, not a block issue!

Are you still thinking of selling these heads or your old stage II's if you get theses fixed/working correctly?

Jim

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94 Auto 396 Stroker

Tornado, Airfoil, Paper air filter........

 

To make sure that it's actually a cracked head/blown head gasket, go to napa and get a block tester kit.

It has a tube with a one way check valve in the bottom, and a suction bulb on the top.

You put this dye in the tube and while the engine is running and the radiator cap off, you squeeze the bulb with the tube positioned over the radiator cap. If there is any exhaust gas present in the cooling system it will change the color of the dye.

I would also have to agree with Jimbob65, it sounds like your heads have a crack that is not surfacing with a normal pressure test.

If you really are getting alot of coolant out the exhaust, I would pull the plugs and see if you can find one that looks different.

Good luck and let us know of your findings.