Just curious what people are using for starters on higher compression engines.

My cousin, who is usually pretty well-informed, said that kicking over even a 17:1 engine isn't a problem as long as the starter is spinning before the ignition is switched on. He said that racers often use separate buttons. One for the starter which gets the engine spinning and circulates oil, and one for the ignition once the engine is already spinning.

The reason this came up is because long ago, I bought a Corvette "hi-torque" LT1 starter, and it's been sitting happily on the shelf waiting for my engine to be completed. A few days ago I realized I bought a "stock" starter for a highly modified engine, and figured that a "true" hi-torque starter (ProTorque, etc.) would probably be better.

He (my cousin) says the starter I have is ample, and that if I wanted to, if I put a delay box of some type in between the ignition switched circuit and the engine management system, the engine would turn over before starting, and there'd be no problem. Then again, with static CR of 11.8:1 and a big solid roller, there probably wouldn't be any problem anyway.

Still, I'd rather put the "right" part in and not end up pulling something out and having to sell a used part when it could have been avoided. At this point, a starter is the very least of my worries, and whatever best suits the application is what I'll use.

Any recommendations?

 

I've got the Vette LT1/LT4 starter and I like it, but I was running a modest 11.4:1 or so. Works great, but the stock LT1 starter is considered pretty decent too, unfortunately my housing cracked once upon a time a couple years ago.

 

Well, even thought I wasn't really pleased with the last thread I was in with you. You came to ask a question and I can help.

Cranking compression is what you want to look at. Really good ring seal and a high dynamic compression ratio are going to need a good starter. That high TQ you have should work, but if you need more I would recomend the Tilton Super Starter HD. It's a quality piece and going to be more than most people need with a 11.8:1 SCR engine. A 9:1 DCR engine needs something like the HD Super Starter.

Bret

 

I'm running the stock B-body starter (with 90K miles) on my 396 with 11.7:1 SCR. It can be a bit slow to kick over when it's cold outside, but hasn't ever failed to start in a couple seconds of cranking.

 

Starting may depend on the engine management system as well. One car we were working on a long while back had an early Accel DFI system and just wouldn't start. Turned out that the system wanted to see 300rpm or something like that before it would spark, and the battery/starter/engine combo just wasn't cranking fast enough.

Anyway Eric, static CR isn't the issue, as you know. So just because it works for you at 11.7:1, it may or may not work in a different 11.7:1 combo.

Rich Krause

 

Thanks for all the input. I have been considering running the CSR (Pro-Torque?) starter that Injuneer and others are using, and just selling the Y-body starter while it's still new. I have F.A.S.T. SEFI-8LO engine management, not sure if that makes a difference, or if it requires a given engine rpm before it'll spark.

 

fwiw my 12.0:1 solid roller 396 spins easily with a stock LT1 starter

 

The stock starter will work fine.

 

Sometimes I have to bump the gas to get mine to start..

Cody