Lets hear your recomendations and I will see how close they are to what I am thinking. This is what I wound up with for parts:

Dart Pro 1 220cc Race Series Aluminum heads (hoping to flow in the 310/210 range after some porting) w/ 2.08/1.60 valves
Standard bore 383 (4.00" bore, 3.75" stroke)
11.8:1 compression
Edelbrock Super Victor 2925 intake manifold
750cfm Speed Demon Carb (not enough I know)

This motor is going in a 80% strip 20% street 1982 Camaro. Probably will go with a 4000 stall, already has a th350.

What do you guys think? Want to shift it around 6800, want it to make some serious horsepower. Lets hear what you think. What do you guys think it can put down as far as peak horsepower/torque?

 

I'd spin it faster to make "serious power", but the carb is a little small for that. So, your 6,800rpm limit may be realistic. Something with an intake duration of ~245 with an exhaust of ~255 degrees @ 0.050" with a 108 degree LSA and ~0.600" lift would be where I would start.

Rich

 

To be honest, I am sure I will wind up spinning it faster, you know how it goes when you are putting a motor together though . You'd like to think you'll be nice to it .

A lot of the camshafts I have been looking at are ground on a 106LSA. You think this is acceptable? I really like this crower solid roller I found:

284/295 advertised, 255/262@.050, .673/.625 w/ 1.6 rockers, 108*LSA

It is in their "limited RPM" section of camshafts. Says it will make peak power at 6800 rpm, max rpm would be 7300 rpm and peak torque around 4500 rpm in a 383-400ci displacement setup (granted everything differs).

What do you think of that camshaft? A lot of camshafts I have been looking at are ground on a tighter 106LSA, do you see any benefit to going tighter if I know my converter is going to be a 4000 or 4500? What kind of peak power do you think we are talking?

Thanks Rich!

 

That's an awfully tight LSA for a car that will see street use. Especially with a carb it will take a lot of fiddling around (by someone who knows carbs) to get it to run nice at low rpm/light load. Cams in this size range will make max hp with a 106LSA though. But the rev range will be narrow in addition to the other problems. The carb will be a problem relative to the cam size. I think the Crower cam is just a tad too big. It would work better with a bigger carb. Or your carb will work better with a lsightly smaller cam. But it's close.

I think, if you will please excuse the crude language, that you need to "**** or get off the pot" and decide if this is a race car or a street car. The Crower cam will be happy at the track, but not so much fun on the street. It would right at the upper limit for any street use, though it would be small for a race cam.

Rich

 

how much gear is in this car,i hope 4.10 w/26'' tire,4.56 or 4.88 w/28'' tire,i also would say you should be goin through the traps roughly 72-7400rpm,more carb is needed 800-850 jetted appropriately...

 

I usually don't post in here but I figure I would add some info from my current combo. I can attest to what these guys are saying about a ton of gear and street manners.


I run an aluminum headed,flat top, 355 with a lunati solid roller. Its a 630/630 ,254/266 on a 106 lsa (it was free)
I also run a 4.56 gear with a 28" tire
I run an 850 cfm chuck nuytten

Street manners are not too bad but it took a ton of tweeking to get it somewhat drivable.
Your defanitely gonna need 4000 + converter

Im running a 3500 and its too tight....car is a dog to the 60ft mark.
I spin it 7000 to 7200 every shift and go through the traps at about the same.

My car is WAY off N/A as it only runs 11.99 to 12.0 @115 with 1.70 60
On 125 shot it runs 10.65@127 with a 1.52 best 60ft

Thats in a 3400 pound 78z.

Ray


Good luck

 

Yeah I know I have some decisions to make. Basically, this car is street driven to the track, and taken downtown and cruised once a week or so. Gas mileage, idle quality and cold starting are all not a concern to me.

The carb issue isnt a big deal, my friend has a Holley 950HP I can always try out to see if I like it.

Rear gears are 3.73's with 26" tires. I plan on going to a 4.11 with a 26" tire when I get a "real" rearend .

With a proper carb and camshaft, what do you guys see this engine making for horsepower?

 

Thats basicly what My car is....I drive it to work every now and then. I usually hit sonic with my boy on weekends.

I do a little bracket racing,7.0(1/8 mile) class racing when OSCRA comes to town.

Good luck it sounds like it will be a stout combo. Ill let the professionals comment on the HP.

Ray

EDIT
PS... be prepared to replace springs every year or sooner with that much lift.
I do mine every spring and back the rockers off when the car sits for an extended period.

 

big I would advance that cam in 4* and play with valve lash..I think you'll find that lowend your missing and also make more torque throughout the curve which will surely help you in a semi heavy car.. just looking from the outside in

 

This is what my roomate is running, "Comp Cam Custom Grind = .670/.670 lift(w/ 1.6) ... 254/260 duration ... 112 deg. lobe sep"

396 lt1, gtp stg 3 heads, m6, trapped over 130 on DR, ~daily driver~. but he was breaking lifters when he started shifting at 8,000 rpm.


And i ran a 244/244 .615/.615 on a 112 for a while, worked really nice up to 7k rpm on a 355

Just some numbers for you to play around with

 

that is some serious mph . I would be happy if I could get it into the 12X's for mph, the further the better of course .

Nobody wants to take a stab at what a setup like this could make for power? I would be happy with 550-575 at the flywheel (more is better of course ). Think this is doable?

 

i hate to be a downer but i really hope you dont have to drive on the highway to the track with that gear/tranny/tire setup, because it'l get old real fast, been there done that. and that whole not caring about the idle with a car you intend to street at all, thats just kind of foolish sorry, been there done that too. i see way too many guys dismiss carbs as so super easy to tune, race tuning yeah its easy, make it drivable... not so easy. and if i were you i would probably run a lower ratio on the intake side to try and knock down some of that lift so your springs live a little longer, and for drivability you may want to think about scaling back the duration a little jmho. i'm going to have to agree with rich on this build a race car or build a fast street car, otherwise what you end up with is a car that underperforms on the track and is a bear to drive on the street. nobody is guessing output probably because of a lack of info your heads are going to flow 310cfm you hope... at what lift on what bore, and what are the rest of the flow numbers going to look like. cant evaluate heads just from peak flow guestimates. i'm not tryin to be on your case or anything no offense intended, i'm just trying to get your attention on some crap holes i see people step in all the time.

 

Yeah I undetstand how it all goes. I have a few friends who have 20% street/ 80% strip cars similar to this, so I am no stranger to the tuning issues and the PITA they can be sometimes, as well as maintenence that goes into keeping a motor like this up to par. I have friends running 268/274@.050 and close to .700 lift on the street.

Keep in mind, I probably drive this car well under 1000 miles a year. This is a true weekend warrior car. Most of the driving I do is to the track, which is under 10 minutes from my house, all country roads, run it in the DOT class, drive it downtown or to a hangout after the races and take it home. Thanks for the heads up though .

 

damn, i hope thats a typo on the 8000 thing!

 

Call Crower and let Dave recommend a cam. They will make you more overall power than anybody. Get their Hippo pressure oiled lifters and try to stop the breakage. Get their whole set up cam,lifters, springs retainers,ect.
A 108-112 will give you a broader and flatter power band and advance any one you get 4*.
A 106 will be peaky and lower RPM torque curve than a 108 which I would recommend.104-106 are generally run in circle track cars or sprint cars. Ya just have to run it through a program to get somewhere close to spot on.
People run cams that are all over the map,but is their cam correct to get the most out of their configuration? To really get the right cam takes a bunch of engine dyno time. Dave can get you REAL close, he's done the time.