Ok Im debating on running a solid roller but what advantages do you have besides having a high rpm? Also what needs to be changed to run that? Just springs?

 

solid rollers are generally higher lifts, higher reving motors. i wouldn't bother unless you have a good set of aftermarket heads.

to do a solid roller, you need, solid roller rockers, look for the expensive ones with the oiling feature, thick hardened or chrome moly pushrods, check lengths for proper fit. a solid roller cam, yes they are different. and matching springs.

the plus side is, used parts tend to be cheaper because there's less of a resale market, but cams are usually best to have custom ground for your specific application.

 

I wouldn't suggest using used solid rollers. THe ones tha ti usually see are from race motors that beat @ 8000 + rpm. I wouldn't want one of those grenades in my motor.

 

You will need a solid roller cam (obviously), solid roller lifters, stout valvesprings, a good set of pushrods, 1 piece valves if you don't already have them (something a lot of people overlook) and a good set of rocker arms that will hold up to that kind of spring pressure.

 

There is nothing inherent in an SR cam that requires stiffer valve springs. Most SR designs need them because the ramps are more aggressive and they are intended for high rpm use. But a "small" SR used at lower rpm does not require mondo springs. That said, if a "small" SR cam meets your needs, you are better off sticking with a HR cam because it isn't giving up much (if anything) to the SR and you don't have to buy new lifters and put up with periodic valve adjustments.

As "melantin" and "limige" suggest, unless you are planning a high revving "extreme" setup you are best off sticking with an HR cam. Also, in addition to the parts mentioned, if you are going with an agressive SR cam and intending to use high revs, you should also upgrade the timing set.

Rich Krause

 

I'd go to a solid roller in anything turning 6500+rpm.

Another thing to keep in mind is that a solid and hydraulic with the same specs..... the solid will idle better as it has less effective duration. You'd need a bit more duration to take advantage of the solid in that comparison. Obviously, the maintenance is not everyone's cup of tea.

-Mindgame

 

While you're spending all that money, don't forget to check the valve-to-piston clearance. Bigger cams usually require greater-than-stock clearance.

c.

 

Solid rollers typically have more aggressive ramp profiles and the added spring pressure is required to keep the lifter on the lobe at all times and without setting up any odd harmonics. If you change to a solid roller make sure your computer has upped the rev limiter to match the limits of your valvetrain.

 

Um don't say this around Steve Quinn
The fastest NA LT1 with STOCK castings... 9 seconds thats good ol no rush racing

 

I noticed that you dont see many blown sollid rollers. Why is that? Is it because of the fact that you dont need the amount of lift that a sollid roller offers? Is it too much duration? What is it?

 

When you can make 600-1000hp with a low-maintenance hydraulic, why bother with a solid.

Sure, you see guys using solids in turbo and supercharged race engines but that extra maintenance is just the reality of racing in the first place. Those guys will take whatever little gains they can get. Not to mention, alot of those engines are still turning big RPM.

-Mindgame

 

-With a Street SR cam in your LT1's, what is the lowest we can go on the CL 108/109/110...stock pcm.. 7000rpm

-Will a SR cam help make a bigger power band, alot more under the curve?7000rpm,

-At what Dur will the car become a dog in the low rpm..can you make this up with gears,4:10/4:30 & compression 12.1DCR / 9.0SCR

 

One point that has been overlooked is that solid roller cams offer consistant lift. I have been told that these "little/ meaningless" gains that we are talking about here are 20-30 hp.....That is why I am thinking about going that route myself.

 

The newer HR lobes are nearly as aggressive (area under the curve) as the typical smaller SR lobes. That's why, as MG suggested, many blower guys don't bother with them.

Take a look at the lobe specifications in Comps catalog at www.compcams.com and compare the "big" HR lobes and the "small" SR lobes and you will see what I mean. For similar durations at 0.050" you will also see similar duration at 0.200" and similar lobe lift. If you actually look at two similar duration HR and SR cams side by side you can still see a difference, the SR lobe has more of a "square" profile (and hence more area under the curve) but the difference isn't huge. If you are after every last hp then go SR, by all means. But most street and street strip setups probalby aren't gaining much.

OTOH, if you want to use the biggest cam possible and still be streetable SR has advantages. Looking at lobes with comparable durations at 0.050" and comparing the advertised duration will tell the story. The SR cam will have longer seat time less duration) for the same duration @ 0.050" and will therefore have a bit better idle and a little more vacuum. But the differnce isn't huge. A SR may allow you to get away with another 5 degrees or so without becoming unmanagable on the street.

Rich

 

I hate to be the guy who always pees in the pool…… But I basically ruined three stroker engines breaking solid lifters of the street. Sorry but that was a bit too much for my budget.

Currently running a HR setup reving to 7000 rpm with no problems. So unless you’re planning on turning more rpm than that, I certainly wouldn’t bother. This is with Comp R lifters and an AFR HydroRev kit.

Lobe profiles of solids vs hydraulic and effective lift/duration, is a bit over my head. However, it sure seems the gap has to be pretty close with the newer HR grinds and lifters out there.