As Mindgame said, going with a large bore setup would be much more beneficial if youa re going to do this. The best way to get there is to go with a BowTie, World or Dart SBC block. Those blocks might cost more in initial purchase but.............. Once you 4 bolt a LT1 with Billet Mains, make sure all the lifter bores are in the right place, sonic check it, magnaflux it just to see if it can handle the power a set of SB2's will get you and then on top of that convert the SB2's you made up the cost of the aftermarket block. So now for the same or LESS money you have a stronger block that will require less rebuilds, takes the SB2 heads really easy and on top of that can be made into a 427cube small block or larger. So that 4.125" bore which is what's really going to get those heads to flow what they are supposed to flow is not such a bad idea after all.

Bret

 

I'm in awe at people who think a sb2.2 head is any better than a 15* or 18* for a drag race application..... I guess if you have the cahunas to spin a engine high enough to benefit go for it.. Personally I'd choose something other than a sb2.2.. and I'd surely swap to a different block all together without having the bore limitation of a lt1...

 

Cubes and Canted valves would make a SB2 a great street/strip motor under 7000k.

15 or 18 deg heads have nothing on them. A Brodix Neal, GB2000, or a Brodix Canted Valve head all could be better heads than a SB2, but they are not cheap.

Bret

 

Ha.

Yeah, it looks like they had more than a few problems putting the thing together. Then again, they had some odd ball stuff going on there with the block... not to mention they're using the original (before revision) sb2's. A guy on this board found a set of "prototype" sb2's for $1800... sent me an e-mail asking about them. I say, "stay away" . That is... unless you have a machine shop and can make parts for them.... otherwise go sb2.2.

And I'm in agreement on the block thing. I was looking at this swap hard. I already have the heads but after thinking about it and talking about it... decided to forget it. With a decent cam in a 383, you could easily spin 8k with those monstrous ports. Now if you could go to a 4.125 bore block, you could make all the power you'd ever want by 7k-ish. That'd be cool.

-Mindgame

 

Yes I revived an ancient thread. Why? Cause as Mindgame said, if you could go 4.125" bore, you could make power.

So guess what's coming? An LT1 with a 4.2" bore. With a 0.391" raised cam. Standard deck height. Well, my order anyway.

So the question becomes, SB 2.2 or AFR 245 cc heads?

Another question is, anyone old school still here?