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?'s on my 383 build

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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 01:42 AM
  #1  
96LT14u2Nv's Avatar
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?'s on my 383 build

i have a 1987 350 2 bolt main block that i am going to build a 383 out of. i have these parts so far

Scat 9000 383 crank
stock LT1 rods
keith black hypo pistons (flat top)

what am i going to have to use to get this together right? what balancer do i use? flywheel? do i have to have the motor balaced (ie.crank,rods,pistons taken to machine shop)?
the crank is internally balanced if that matters. thanks
Old Jan 23, 2004 | 04:37 AM
  #2  
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Re: ?'s on my 383 build

Originally posted by 96LT14u2Nv
i have a 1987 350 2 bolt main block that i am going to build a 383 out of. i have these parts so far

Scat 9000 383 crank
stock LT1 rods
keith black hypo pistons (flat top)

what am i going to have to use to get this together right? what balancer do i use? flywheel? do i have to have the motor balaced (ie.crank,rods,pistons taken to machine shop)?
the crank is internally balanced if that matters. thanks
Do you mean it's already balanced to your pistons and rods? In that case, you will need a neutral balance flywheel/flexplate. In either case, the balance is specific to your parts and will need to be done at the machine shop. Harmonic dampers are "neutral balance" and you should be able to bolt up the brand of choice.

Rich Krause
Old Jan 23, 2004 | 03:10 PM
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Been there done that.....

A few points of advice, scrap the stock rods, buy a set of Scat 4340 I beams before you sink any time and money into the stock rods. Better material and better setup period, today with the quality low cost rods options out there recondintioning a stock rod is a waste of time.

Second look at your compression ratio with the -7cc pistons because that's about your only good option unless you want to get into angle milling. .

Thrid if it was me I would stay with the 5.7" rod when you are using the KB's because their oil rail support setup is not my favorite and it will save you some headaches.

As Rich said IMHO the best way to go is to neutral balance the flywheel.

BTW I hope it's not a LT1 motor you plan on doing with that block, if not just making sure.

Bret
Old Jan 24, 2004 | 12:18 AM
  #4  
96LT14u2Nv's Avatar
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nah, this is a 80's roller block, not LT1. u guys answered my ?'s about the balancing. i was going to do that (take crank,rods,pistons....get them wieghed/balanced.) i understand that THEN i can get a neutral balance flywheel too.

NOW, do i get a 6" or 8" balancer? can i use the stocker after all of this? the motor didnt come with this so i dont really know what to use for it.

i was just going to use a flat top hypo pistons. not looking for big compression here. i am going to be running cast iron GMHP Vortec heads and a 218/224 cam. this is just going to be a mild upgrade for my chevelles 283 that is in there now. is that going to work?
Old Jan 24, 2004 | 06:49 PM
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whats wrong with the lt1?
Old Jan 25, 2004 | 01:08 PM
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96LT14u2Nv's Avatar
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???? nothing is wrong with my LT1. this is for my chevelle
Old Jan 25, 2004 | 03:46 PM
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BTW I hope it's not a LT1 motor you plan on doing with that block, if not just making sure.
whats wrong with the lt1's?
Old Jan 25, 2004 | 10:06 PM
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O, yeah im not sure what that was about.

anyway, yall think it be cheaper to build this as a .30 over 350 with the LT1 rods and flat tops. will a stock LT1 crank work in any roller 1 piece main 350?

i appreciate the help guys
Old Jan 25, 2004 | 11:54 PM
  #9  
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I say use the LT1 block I sent you and build up a fuel injected 383 for that beast. Heh. But other than that looks like they covered your questions pretty well. I'm also an advocate of ditching the stock rods.

Peace,
Old Jan 26, 2004 | 12:38 PM
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Originally posted by stroked383ta
whats wrong with the lt1's?
I said that because LT1 heads will not bolt up to a non LT1 block that's all.

Bret
Old Jan 28, 2004 | 11:15 AM
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Originally posted by SStrokerAce
I said that because LT1 heads will not bolt up to a non LT1 block that's all.
Well, they will bolt up - which is about all they'll do

96LT14u2Nv, an LT1 crank will fit a standard 1-piece SBC block. You're not saving a huge amount of money by going this route, because you're still looking at a machine-shop bill. I'd make the final decision based on how the car's already set up, drivetrain-wise (converter, gearing, etc.), as it may very well be less money to build the motor to fit the drivetrain than the other way around. In the end, the overall set-up will make more of a difference on the street or at the track than 33 cubic inches will.
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