Has anyone here done this and if so what proportioning valve did you use? Also did you have to have any extra fittings to adapt it to work. I have a 9 inch and dont use the abs system anyway so just want to do away with it, thanks for yor help

 

I think Brady (Brady 96Z) did the ABS delete. I think he used a standard proportioning valve, nothing fancy.

Jose

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97 SS #1500 T-76 383
88 Supra Turbo CT-26/T04
87 Buick Grand National T-70

 

I told the mechanic at Second Street that I was going to delete the ABS by simply routing the front line through a line lock solenoid, and the back line through a bias valve (obviously I had seen Brady's pic's and it looked "clean"). He asked my if I would please take out a life insurance policy with him as the beneficiary.

OK.... show me the right way. Took me out to the back lot, popped the hood on a 97 Camaro that just happened to have the engine "out", and showed me the way he had removed the ABS. Basically, went from the master cylinder to a "distribution block" he had mounted near the firewall. Appeared to be very similar to the block on the side of the stock ABS unit, but he told me he got this particular one out of an Impala. From that point on, he did what I wanted to do.... line lock in the front circuit and bias valve in the rear circuit.

I decided to just leave the ABS alone, until I can figure out if this guy was correct. The car he installed "his" system in was providing excellent braking, pulling the car down from near 160mph speeds. Front brakes were a Mark Williams light-weight drag set, backs were stock LT1. The mechanic has significant experience with a Formula 1 team, so I tend to listen to what he has to say. Still haven't given it a lot of thought though, since I am not ready to pull the ABS. Just want to make sure I do it the right way.

Food for thought, though.....

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Fred
94 Formula A3: 381/TH400/N2O

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Interesting thoughts, Freddy.

Did the guy say *why* he ran through a distribution block?

All I can really say about my setup is that it stops as good as it did w/the ABS.. The proportioning valve is screwed almost all of the way out, though FWIW.

hmmm... Guess I better go increase my life insurance.

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...Brady
Twin Turbo 1996 Z28
Sponsored by YearOne
'98 B4C Z28 (daily driver)

 

I run manual brakes, no ABS, no valve and haven't had a problem so far, even with stock brakes.
The way it sounds Brady doesn't need one either, since he has his valve "screwed almost all the way out".

Dave

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If a little's good,
More is better,
And too much is just right!!!

 

He indicated that no matter what you did with the bias valve in the back, it wouldn't balance the front and rear correctly..... It sounded wierd to me - I couldn't understand why the distribution block was required..... so I just kind of avoided the whole subject.

Glad to hear it is working out OK. That makes it a whole lot easier to make the ABS deletion. I'll print out new copies of your pic's......

Fred

 

i used the distribution block (i guess that's what it's called) out of a 3rd gen fbody.

it was pretty easy. it had 2 "in's" and 3 "out's" like the original ABS setup had.

looks good, and i only have about $20 in it.

 

My site has pics of the ABS delete I did about 2.5 years ago. It's very easy but I would high suggest a Wilwood proportioning valve.

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Jeff Collop
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"...in our lifetime those who kill, the News World hands them stardom, and these are the ways on which I was raised, these are the ways on which I was, which I was raised; I never wanted to kill I am not naturally evil, such things I do just to make myself more attractive to you..." - Steven Patrick Morrissey

 

Let's delve into this just a little further..

• What does this "distribution block" do?
• Do you really need a proportioning valve?

My proportioning valve is unscrewed nearly all the way, (a proportioning valve is like a pressure regulator). I ran a little "test" on the jackstands this weekend, my rear brakes are not as good as stock. The car still stops fine, but the rear brakes are FAR from locking up, hell, they barely lock up with the car in the air!

Here's my question about the distribution block; does the distribution block "distribute" the brake pressure equally between the front and rear brakes? If so, that would be a good thing!

From what I can tell now, I don't have enough pressure going to the rear brakes. The proportioning valve is doing nothing, zero, nada, zilch, to help this. If the distribution block internally equalizes the front/rear pressure, then I might require the proportioning valve to prevent the rear brakes from locking up before the fronts...

thoughts?
..Brady

 

I run a madman manual master cylinder with 3/16" front and rear brake lines and have no proportioning valve. My car stops great from 100+ mph speeds but you have to press the pedal pretty hard--it's something you have to get used to. My braking feels very balanced although I have not checked it with the car in the air. IMO go with the manual brakes if you get rid of the ABS.
Later
Matt

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96 Camaro Z28 6spd., T-tops, custom viper red with pearlcoat paintjob and black top. Will have some N/A times soon!
The Z under construction
92 Talon TSI 5spd. AWD Best E.T.-13.753@98.30mph
1.885 60ft.@13lbs boost

 

Brady
I believe your right on the way the block works. From what i see it is just a log so that it has equal pressure spread across the braking system. I will dip into the parts and see though
Steven

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383 Inches of stroked turbocharged fun.
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I've done this modification and it is super simple. The distribution block as you guys are refering is the proportioning valve. Get one from a salvage yard from a 3rd gen with 4 wheel discs. Make sure you get the fittings also. You'll need a tubing cutter and a double flare tool,but it's not a big deal. I shaved about 28lbs off the frt end deletig the ABS control unit.

 

Guys the only real way I know of to test this is to install a pressure gauge in line with the front or rear braking system, and see what kind of pressures you are getting out of the Master Cylinder. As you all know, different MC's have different size bores, which Mark Williams calls Pedal Ratio. It's a very good explation of it in their catalog, it might also be on their website. They claim 1200 psi under severe braking is ideal with 1000 psi being the minimum to the Front Brakes. HTH.

 

You may have some good luck on solutions and fixes on LS1.com in the Autocross Roadrace section. There has been several discussions about ABS.
This is actually a good idea for the autocrossers who are running the LS1 cars. There ABS SUCKS. Many are searching for a solution. In ESP (street prepared class) you are allowed to install alternate MC prop valves lines etc. disable abs but not remove it. So they could leave it in the car but do away with it.
Definately run this buy them. Next time I am over there I will tell people about this thread.

 

I'm using a Wilwood "Mopar" Manual Master Cylinder with Built-In Bias. I have a Proportioning Valve also, but don't figure It'll be needed..... *Shrug Shoulders*

Nostang, FYI you have this same Master Cylinder, Lets just Say Brian re-Badges someone else's kit.

Whats the number to Allstate?

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Kurtis Tamez
LT4-396.com
97 Z28 LT4-396
94 Firehawk LT1-396
Team NW F-Body