Pro Performance?
Who has had there heads done there and what are the feelings on them?
A one month old set was just purchased by a good friend from a board member.
They are sad to say the least. I personally saw the work that was done and would in no way shape or form put them on my car or a $$$$ 396! I watched as most the intake valves leaked. This appears to be from not being centered on the seats. One is REAL nasty! Bearly touching one side have having a huge wide seat on the other side...of the same valve!
Above and beyound this both heads appear to have been dropped...and not in shipping.
so what is everyones experiance here?
Ellis "friends don't let friends get ripped off!"
A one month old set was just purchased by a good friend from a board member.
They are sad to say the least. I personally saw the work that was done and would in no way shape or form put them on my car or a $$$$ 396! I watched as most the intake valves leaked. This appears to be from not being centered on the seats. One is REAL nasty! Bearly touching one side have having a huge wide seat on the other side...of the same valve!
Above and beyound this both heads appear to have been dropped...and not in shipping.
so what is everyones experiance here?
Ellis "friends don't let friends get ripped off!"
Does anyone not remember when they flat out fabricated flow numbers & it was proven? LOL
For some reason they have the industry standard sf-600 bench in the shop, but still choose to use an old sf-300 (they run it, but didnt even know what model it was & kept calling it a sf400 b/c its highest range flows ~400cfm). I find this odd, dont you? He took a picture of the bench to "prove" that his using 400.0000000000cfm for calculating numbers was "correct." LOL.. the picture was of the actual flow scale selector. I pointed out the calibration card in the pic and asked them to retake a pic of that & they wouldnt. For reference, this is one from where it was calibrated at Superflow.
For some reason their stuff outflows us on "their bench," but with similar setups we're rolling 40-50hp more.
I'm biased, obviously, but thats amateurish work. Unfortunately the vast majority of consumers are naive and most of these amateur shops play on that under the guise of "marketing." I refuse to lie and bull**** people, unfortunately it's kept me from selling as much as i could. That & we havent been able to do street stuff over the summer b/c of the actual race stuff that had to get done.
O well, ken mook probably has some experience with them.. maybe his buddy rumair who isnt too nice for his own good will post about them
.
There are reputable shops out there, but I wouldnt run these guy's stuff on my neighbors lawnmower. Of course that can be said for a few of the advertisers on here I wont mention. Like I said.. there ARE plenty of reputable shops out there. Find one with DYNO numbers b/c benches vary. Find a shop where most of the work is going in actual competition. If their livelyhood is dependant upon them being the best at making power, thats who you want to deal with. Guys with hands on experience and TRAINING. The buddies i do heads with were educated at the premiere race engine school, judson massengill's S.A.M. That training combined with guys with engineering degrees who can push a pencil & do it right the first time will beat out the yokel going on trial & error in his garage any day of the week.
But, it all goes back to the general consumer being naive and easily duped. Such is life, ill stop ranting now
.
EDIT: Oh, I'd tell you guys to have a few whacks at the valves with a rubber mallet to bounce them off the seat 5 or 10 times. Sometimes thatll make them seat. You actually dont want the seat and guide to be concentric, but what youre talking about sounds like more runout than is desireable...
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Got Head?
Buy my Laptop!
[This message has been edited by SkarodoM (edited September 14, 2002).]
For some reason they have the industry standard sf-600 bench in the shop, but still choose to use an old sf-300 (they run it, but didnt even know what model it was & kept calling it a sf400 b/c its highest range flows ~400cfm). I find this odd, dont you? He took a picture of the bench to "prove" that his using 400.0000000000cfm for calculating numbers was "correct." LOL.. the picture was of the actual flow scale selector. I pointed out the calibration card in the pic and asked them to retake a pic of that & they wouldnt. For reference, this is one from where it was calibrated at Superflow.
For some reason their stuff outflows us on "their bench," but with similar setups we're rolling 40-50hp more.
I'm biased, obviously, but thats amateurish work. Unfortunately the vast majority of consumers are naive and most of these amateur shops play on that under the guise of "marketing." I refuse to lie and bull**** people, unfortunately it's kept me from selling as much as i could. That & we havent been able to do street stuff over the summer b/c of the actual race stuff that had to get done.
O well, ken mook probably has some experience with them.. maybe his buddy rumair who isnt too nice for his own good will post about them
. There are reputable shops out there, but I wouldnt run these guy's stuff on my neighbors lawnmower. Of course that can be said for a few of the advertisers on here I wont mention. Like I said.. there ARE plenty of reputable shops out there. Find one with DYNO numbers b/c benches vary. Find a shop where most of the work is going in actual competition. If their livelyhood is dependant upon them being the best at making power, thats who you want to deal with. Guys with hands on experience and TRAINING. The buddies i do heads with were educated at the premiere race engine school, judson massengill's S.A.M. That training combined with guys with engineering degrees who can push a pencil & do it right the first time will beat out the yokel going on trial & error in his garage any day of the week.
But, it all goes back to the general consumer being naive and easily duped. Such is life, ill stop ranting now
.EDIT: Oh, I'd tell you guys to have a few whacks at the valves with a rubber mallet to bounce them off the seat 5 or 10 times. Sometimes thatll make them seat. You actually dont want the seat and guide to be concentric, but what youre talking about sounds like more runout than is desireable...
------------------
Got Head?
Buy my Laptop!
[This message has been edited by SkarodoM (edited September 14, 2002).]
I think kmook runs these heads... one guy had $1000+ damage when a water jacket broke through... there was a thread... can't find it... ask him!
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-- Tim
http://tim.mindriot.net
Mods: 58mm TB, 30# Accel Injectors, GMS MAF, Meziere Water Pump, March Pulleys, LS1 Alum. Driveshaft, 3" cutout, BTE 3600 stall, TH350 with TCI Transbrake, B&M Pro Ratchet, Moser 12-bolt with 33 splines & spool, MAC Torque Arm, Dynatech headers, Homemade Y-Pipe, Edelbrock "cat"-back, XE230/236 cam - click to hear!, CC 1.6RR's and guides, Nittos, MSD 6 Digital+, Accel Super Coil, Hurst LineLock, Eibach Drag Launch Springs, KYB adj struts, CE Drag Shocks, Lakewood LCA's, Biondo Mega 75 Delay Box, 3.73
<A HREF="http://www.shootmyphoto.com/misc" TARGET=_blank>
Best Times: 8.10 1/8th mile, 1.750 60', 87 MPH</A>
Why not to buy from RACENETclick here
------------------
-- Tim
http://tim.mindriot.net
Mods: 58mm TB, 30# Accel Injectors, GMS MAF, Meziere Water Pump, March Pulleys, LS1 Alum. Driveshaft, 3" cutout, BTE 3600 stall, TH350 with TCI Transbrake, B&M Pro Ratchet, Moser 12-bolt with 33 splines & spool, MAC Torque Arm, Dynatech headers, Homemade Y-Pipe, Edelbrock "cat"-back, XE230/236 cam - click to hear!, CC 1.6RR's and guides, Nittos, MSD 6 Digital+, Accel Super Coil, Hurst LineLock, Eibach Drag Launch Springs, KYB adj struts, CE Drag Shocks, Lakewood LCA's, Biondo Mega 75 Delay Box, 3.73
<A HREF="http://www.shootmyphoto.com/misc" TARGET=_blank>
Best Times: 8.10 1/8th mile, 1.750 60', 87 MPH</A>
Why not to buy from RACENETclick here
I have used 3 sets of PP heads and have had nothing but good things to say about them.
What was thought to have been an issue with one set ended up being a 1" crack in my #4 cylinder.
The heads that Ellis is talking about is one of my old sets. The heads are less than a month old and have less than a week of actual run time. The reason i sold them was i wanted to purchase a cheaper set of PP heads so i could save money and use the saved money to get my new combo up and running also get a new set that was more geared toward flowing great on the exhaust not intake like a blower setup like mine needs. They had brand new valves, seats, guides, etc used. Everything ran peachy on my car. And afterward i did not even just sell em and ship them. I spent money out of my pocket and had a local machine shop (Keaners) pressure test them and check them for trueness before i sold them to anyone and they checked out fine and were givin a clean bill of health.
If you would like to discuss anything further please take it up in email with me. If you would like to know peoples opinions on their own set of PP heads please post a question in LT1 Tech or LS1 Tech. Thank you.
What was thought to have been an issue with one set ended up being a 1" crack in my #4 cylinder.
The heads that Ellis is talking about is one of my old sets. The heads are less than a month old and have less than a week of actual run time. The reason i sold them was i wanted to purchase a cheaper set of PP heads so i could save money and use the saved money to get my new combo up and running also get a new set that was more geared toward flowing great on the exhaust not intake like a blower setup like mine needs. They had brand new valves, seats, guides, etc used. Everything ran peachy on my car. And afterward i did not even just sell em and ship them. I spent money out of my pocket and had a local machine shop (Keaners) pressure test them and check them for trueness before i sold them to anyone and they checked out fine and were givin a clean bill of health.
If you would like to discuss anything further please take it up in email with me. If you would like to know peoples opinions on their own set of PP heads please post a question in LT1 Tech or LS1 Tech. Thank you.
Last edited by kmook; Sep 15, 2002 at 02:39 PM.
When Kmook was selling the heads I emailed him about them. He said they were ready to go and were checked out by a shop and were fine. I don't see how they could be bad if they were checked out by a shop.
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<A HREF="http://personal.msy.bellsouth.net/msy/k/r/kraest/derrick.htm" TARGET=_blank>1994 Z28 A4
LT1 Motorsports equipped stock-bottom end LT1, LT1 heads, Hydraulic-Roller Cam, Dope
11.03 @ 125.53 1.61 60ft.
7.08 @ 99.05 1/8 mile</A>
<A HREF="http://stangnet.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=229662" TARGET=_blank>1984 Mustang L
92' 5.0 roller motor, T5, NOS plate kit, etc.
13.44 @ 101.58 mph 1.95 60 ft. NA
</A>
------------------
<A HREF="http://personal.msy.bellsouth.net/msy/k/r/kraest/derrick.htm" TARGET=_blank>1994 Z28 A4
LT1 Motorsports equipped stock-bottom end LT1, LT1 heads, Hydraulic-Roller Cam, Dope
11.03 @ 125.53 1.61 60ft.
7.08 @ 99.05 1/8 mile</A>
<A HREF="http://stangnet.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=229662" TARGET=_blank>1984 Mustang L
92' 5.0 roller motor, T5, NOS plate kit, etc.
13.44 @ 101.58 mph 1.95 60 ft. NA
</A>
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