Just curious about any experience with them, positive or negative. I am gradually accumulating parts for a new race engine and have (for no logical reason) decided that bearings are the next thing I am going to buy. Well, maybe it's 'cause I feel like blowing a couple of hundred and that's what a set of bearings is going to cost? Anyway, I have heard about the alecular bearings and was wondering if they are hype or of any value over traditional tri-metal pieces.

Rich

 

I was under the impression that these bearings came about as a way to eliminate lead, both from the manufacturing process and from used oil in changes. Then they had to go to this "alecular" material because of problems with just Aluminum. From what I understand, the big benefit is that particles floating around in the engine can embed in the material instead of just gouging it. Bigger particals than with the older babbit bearings. So I can't help wondering... If the bearing material can absorb bigger contaminant particles, doesn't that also mean that it will, for lack of a better word; fossilize faster? What happens then? I honestly don't know. I like new stuff, but bearings are a huge big deal, more important than any other component in the engine. I personally would tend to be more interested in coatings. Having said all that, I suppose that if you're looking at a purpose built engine that will see limited hours of use before a rebuild that maybe the ability of aluminum to take a beating would be handy.

 

I'm curious about them myself. I had trouble deciding between Clevite H series and the Kings - apparently the Kings have a .010 or .012 deep soft layer and a tough steel shell. I think Fred Forsythe used King bearings in his 381. I also would consider the coated bearings, but can't find a lot of info on them or availability.

 

The theoretical advantage is greater "embedibility", like the old babbit bearings but with greater durability. I can see the primary advantage for a motor that doesn't see frequent oil changes or operates in a very dirty environment. So, that would mean not an advantage for a race engine. But there may be more to it, so I'd appreciate any other thoughts. I am pretty conservative, and have been using the Clevite "H" series for a long time. But I am always thinking about alternatives.

Rich

 

While on bearings have you looked at the roller cam bearings from I believe Comp?

 

I think roller cam bearings would be way more trouble than they are worth except on an absolute max effort no $$$ spared race engine.

Rich

 

What about dry startup situations with LARGE spring pressures in a streetcar application?



David

 

Rich,

I ran these on a 355 with an Eagle Crank and had no problems. They came with my rotating assembly. I can't say they are better or worse than anything else but they worked fine for me. Chalk me up for a neutral rating.

Steve

 

We've used these in 305 econo sprint engines. They are very soft, but light.... they'll knock 14 grams off of the bobweight. That's the only reason we use them. The rules are very limited for these engines, so we've had to be very creative when it comes to lightweight engine components. They make 500 hp @ 7400 rpm on the engine dyno with bobweights in the low 1400's. A typical night will consist of hot laps, heat races, and a 20 lap feature with the egine running between 6000-7500 the whole time. It's a fairly abusive environment.

With that being said, I wouldn't be comfortable using them in something with larger bore, heavier components used in 1790 gram bobweights typical for an LT1 stroker at 500 + hp.

 

Try the Calico bearings!

I am putting together a new 383 drag race motor and I am using them through out the engine. I only run 3 quarts of oil in the pan and when I leave the line and also when I hit the brakes at the top end I am at near 0 oil pressure. I also run 0 weight Castrol syn. oil. I have done this for the last few years with no issues but would like the extra protection from a coated bearing. They are widely used in racing of many of the top teams.

Rick

 

near 0 oil pressure? sems like I would look into a better baffled trap door style oil pan,My oil pressure never drops below 25 psi braking after the traps.

 

It sounds like he is looking for every last fractional hp and running as little oil as possible.

Rich

 

Yeah I have seen that done,sounds risky too me as most guys do run trap door pans and pay particular attention to oil flow to avoid starvation.He did say he hadnt had any problems though so maybe its only a momentary loss at low rpm's.

 

Yeah, I wouldn't do it either. But I not involved in the kind of racing where getting the last couple of thousanths of a second out of the car makes any difference.

Rich