I'm not completely sure if this is "advanced" enough, but I'll give it a shot.

I want to install a better oil cooling system with possible filter relocation, and also add in an Accusump. I already have the accusump, but want to order the other oiling equipment prior to install, but am not completely sure which components I should go with. This is for my LT1.


TIA,

________________
Rob
1994 Firehawk#319
11.83@120.61
Slightly Modified
1996 Blown V6
2002 Trailblazer
San Diego F-Bodies
"Garp bit Bonky."

 

Is this a high-reving engine? If so, how high (7000? 8000 via aftermarket computer? etc...)

Are the tolerances in your engine stock? or is this a loose-fit motor with low-tension rings?

Obviously there's a few poines to be foudn with a dry-sump, but the packaging is pretty tight for something like that... and it'll cost about 3 G's to do it right.

Next step down is an Accusump and relocated oil filter, both are nice if the stock filter is cuddling header tubes and you expect any hard cornering/braking.


If you go with solid roller lifters you "could" put in oil restrictors to ensure the wet sump stays covered and the cam/main bearings get some good volume.


Only thing is... why do you need to improve it? The SBC has one of the most bullet-proof oiling systems ever put in a car.

My personal goals regarding oiling on my 383 build-up is this:
- crank scraper
- windage tray
- stock volume/pressure SBC pump (blueprinted probably)
- radius'd oil passages
- Accusump

I've thought of smoothing out the oil drain holes from the heads, but it may be better just to leave that alone (heat draw and all) I dunno. I may go with a remote oil filter (like a System1), but I dunno if I can find a good place for it.

 

Thanks Steve. Little more info:

It's a fairly decently built 355 LT1 with 12:1 compression, Lingenfelter grind of a CC306, so rev range is a liveable 6600 rpms. I want to start open tracking with this car on a regular basis, so I want to take as many precautions as possible to make the engine live. I should see corning forces hopefully as high as 1.2 g's. The build up is within normal tolerances upon a rebuild, not too loose, or too tight, no low tension rings. I will be adding better flowing heads and intake with some Long Tube headers and fear that they may "hug" the oil filter a bit.

I already have the older Canton oil pan, as well as a high volume oil pump and Canton "swinging pickup". I also like the thought of being able to pre-oil the engine upon startup.

 

Sounds like a good candidate for a filter relocation and an Accusump.

If you will be road racing this car an oil-cooler may be nessesary (as is a power-steering cooler). Just make sure that while it can get some air where it's mounted AND doesn't risk being torn off. I only say it because I know someone it happened to. He mis read a turn, spun into some blackberry bushes (ouch), and torn off the oil cooler... draining the engine.

 

BTW, if you're looking for an oil adapter that will give you the ability for an oil cooler/accusump/remote filter you may want to stop by a GM dealership. The vettes and several F-body LT1's came with the optional oil-cooler, and as a result there is a GM part number for the adapter with line outs/in.

I imagine this is one of the reasons the vettes have to use PF25 instead of the longer PF35 filters F-bodies are used to (filter hangs farther down due to the larger oil filter adapter).

Maybe someone here will post a GM part number.

 

Well, my Hawk came with the water to oil, oil cooling system, but I want better, and I've heard that, that system can get clogged up over time.

Thanks Brook, i was looking at those too, just not sure which ones I should go with.

 

I looked at this as my replacement LT1 (from a same year wrecked Z28) had it, and my TA's LT1 did not. I was thinking the same thing, but found that the GM setup is an oil/water unit, and the "cooling" uses heated coolant, which of course puts more of a load on the radiator. There is no practical way to convert this to an oil/air unit, especially when you can buy a sandwich adapter as mentioned above. I'm going to try one of these from Earls that has a built in thermostat with -10 AN fittings. I run an oilstat- (external in line thermostat) on my other cars with oil/air coolers and it seems to work well.

I'm trying to work out where I should put my B&M Supercooloer for airflow along with my ATI 2 core intercooler on the 1995 TA.