Eh thats about the same price as the Wix, plus I have to pay shipping. I was hoping for something a little cheaper. Thanks for the links

 

So the Chinese ones have no welds? What welds are we talking about?

PF35L = synthetic filter media
PF35 = regular filter media

You know, I really hate it that the oil filter manufacturers are constantly crapifying their products and switching things around. Every time I need a filter I have to spend a week researching what's good and what's not that particular month.

 

This is a copy of the warning that has been floating around on the 'net for at least 8 or 9 years:
That's from another decent link on oil filter comparisons:

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart5.htm

Where are you still getting PF35L's that you can look at the welds? I thought they stopped making them and replaced them with the UPF1218 at least 5 years ago. And then discontinued the UPF1218.

 

Carquest filters are "Wix" filters.... Part # 85060 .... Not sure if they can get the racing type, Part # 85060R, but I will check into it...

 

Chevy hasn't ever had the bypass in the filter. It is in the filter adapter housing. As far as loosing pressure is concerned, the bypass valve, which in reality, is a pressure differential valve, opens at a pressure differential of ~ 8#. This bypass is put in place to allow oil to bypass a restrictive/plugged/dirty filter. With the pressure available to the engine at high RPM, the lose of say 10# by rerouting from a restrictive filter, thru the bypass, is not enuf to cause engine problems. Ironically, the major issue, as exploited by filter mfrs., with a resrictive filter, that causes the bypass to function, is not of pressure, but a lose of more complete filtering of the oil.

 

Thanks for that information, I havent ever researched oil filters this much, so alot of this is new to me. I havent gotten time to change the filter, but I did just do a couple of WOT runs and what you said makes me think the filter is a very good possiblity. The motor will continue to make more pressure until around 4000+ rpms, then it drops from 60+ to 50 then it will rise back up to 65+ psi. I think what is happening is that the filter is staying up with demands until 4000+ at which time the filter is becoming a restriction, thus the bypass on the filter adaptor is relieving the pressure difference and thats when the pressure returns to normal.

Anyone agree/disagree with this hypothesis?

Thanks,
James

 

If you wanted to test your hypothesis, you could put in a bypass valve plug and see how the oil pressure behaves. I'd use the Perma-Cool one because you can easily remove it.

How is your pickup attached to your oil pump? I had a problem where the oil pressure would drop to 30-40psi if I went over 3000rpm. I found that if I removed the retainer bolt, the pickup tube would easily slide in and out of the pump! I replaced the pump and pickup. The new Milodon pickup has a thick-wall machined end welded onto the tube, and the machined part is what presses into the pump. It has to be pressed HARD to get it in (the shadetree method of using a hammer and an open-end wrench to pound it in failed miserably). Even though it's not welded, I can't imagine it will ever come out or suck air.

I thought that solved the problem, but perhaps it allowed me to uncover another problem. Now if I go over 3200rpm either maintaining speed or accelerating, the pressure drops from a rock-solid 60psi to 40psi. Oddly, if I let off the gas and decelerate, the pressure comes back up to 60psi even if I'm over 3200rpm. I'm currently thinking it's an oil-control issue, as I have no windage tray or crank scraper.

 

I'm going to delete the stock oil cooler when my new engine goes back in, where can I purchase this adaptor? Thanks.

 

As far as oil filters go I use the Baldwin B6 which IMOP is one of the best out there, I also have plugged the bypass on my filter housing and see no problems with oil pressure and I run a stock pan with windage tray and a HV oil pump and the stock oil cooler. I think more oil pressure problems are caused by not having the oil pick the right distance from the bottom of the pan i.e. (to close to the bottom ) and no windage tray, also t he stock oil pressure sensor is mounted on the top back of the block which is quite a ways away from the oil pump, I would guess people are seeing up to 10psi less oil pressure than you really have than if the sensor was mounted down by the oil filter so I would take that into consideration when looking at oil pressure.Just my .02

 

To those that have taken off their oil coolers. Did you also take off the boss that bolts on to the block that the oil filter threads onto? When I did my oilpan gasket it came with a few paper filters that were the correct diameter and had correct hole (bolt) spacing to mount between this piece and the block. I'm thinking this could be the cause of my oil pressure issues.

 

I still havent gotten around to it, but I can tell you the pickup is definitly still on the pump. I had my machine shop weld it and check the clearences.

I will let you guys know.

 

After Baldwin engineers flatly REFUSED to offer upon request, simple pressure differential specs on their filters, specs AC freely submits on their website, I have written off Baldwin. It is not like this info is top secret/classified. I like the idea of knowing a little more about the filter I use, than just whether or not, it can screw on. Sure they may filter, but at a price.

 

thats cool that stuff i thought was local benchracing knowledge is on the net, we were comparing the two [old and new 35Ls]side by side long ago, and noticed the spot welds on the top were weaker and it weighed less than the old one, and the old crusty dude i got my stockpile from said its because they were chinese.
i have been going into every autozone i drive by and they still have some in inventory as noone asks for them anymore and the computer doesnt give that part # when the desk jockey punches any type of engine in there. downside is you have to do it in person as their computers show they have none if you call.
im trying to find a couple cases in bulk from supplier somewhere but its hard--im down to my last one on the car and my GMPP guy wont give me anymore of his.
oh and if you live in socal 35Ls suck and you dont want to run one.



also i just chunked my last used 35L today so if ya wanna see one cut open next to a 1218 youre gonna have to wait a few thousand miles, as im not cutting open a new one.

 

I'll be picking up that filter from Napa tomorrow and will report my results back in a couple of days.

 

Ya don't need an adaptor. Use the existing screw on plate and get the correct bolts from GM for an early SBC or I have been using allen bolts with no washers and a little blue locktite.