My new cam just arrived, still waiting on the heads. I am reading the tech card that comes with the cam and it says that "These cam specs are for cam installed at 111 intake center line"

Is this the same thing as degreeing a cam? How do you set it for a 111 centerline?

 

What's the lobe seperation angle?

Bret

 

113

But there is another line that reads HR 113+2

 

If you install the cam dot to dot, then it will be installed 2deg advanced. That's what a 111 ICL is on a 113 LSA, that's why it says 113+2. Unless you have a adjustable timing chain degreeing in a cam is not a prefect science. There is a really good Comp Cams video on how to degree in a cam.

 

Cool, thanks!

So if I install it dot to dot, I am good to go correct? That is the way I read your comment.

Being that I don't have an adjustable timing chain, and no video it sounds like I should just go dot to dot.

right?

 

yeah but make sure you get it dot to dot, it takes a couple of tries to get it on the exact tooth to get it right.

Bret

 

What is the best way to do that? Starter? I have so many things unplugged....I am afraid to hook the batt. up.

Can I put the car in gear, raise the rear wheels and turn the tires? The heads are off the engine, so you can imagion how many connectors are swinging in the wind.

 

With the lifters out though it can be rather easy, because the cam will move freely.

I did this on a car recently where the intake never came off, so what we ended up doing was pulling the dowel pin out (vice grips), twist it and pull, and then put the cam bolts back in place when everything was good to go, then punched the dowel back in place. This is of course assuming a 95 Opti setup.

Otherwise I just rotate the cam around a little with the gear resting on the dowel, and put it back in place, if its off a tooth then back down goes the cam gear and move the chain appropriately. It will be easy when you get down to do the work, just some common sense and you should have no problems, no real tricks.

No starter is used, leave the crank gear at 12º and get the cam gear at 6º, they must be dead on, otherwise its off at least 1 tooth. There is no "close enough" because that will change your power band.

 

When I went out to my garage and looked at things it dawned on me that I could just put the crank bolt back in and using a rachet and socket just turn the engine over. This worked like a charm and now we are sitting dot to dot...duh!

I am not going to take the stock cam out just yet, my heads won't be here for another 2 weeks, so no use putting the new cam in there yet. This would allow the pre-lube to drip off, so might as well wait till I have the heads and more importantly the new timing chain and gears!

Thanks guys, you have all been very helpful for this newbie-engine tear-apart-do-it-yourself-er!

I am sure I'llbe back later with more questions.