What is the valve spacing differances within the bore?

 

What do you mean Hawk? How do they differ based on bore size or just per head?

 

SStrokerAce

Will a stud girdle for a 23degree sbc head fit on a LT1 head, or is the spacing of the valves different on a LT1 head?

I buddy has some old SBC stuff laying around and I'm wondering if his bars will fit ok?

...Not talking about Optimizing valve placement {moving guides} to fill cylinder better

 

I am pretty sure that the centerbolt valve covers would be an issue.

Rich

 

Definitely an issue with a 2-bar stud girdle. If it's single bar, you'll need to drill for the centerbolt clearance (look at the moroso stud girdle). Then there's still the issue with the rocker stud spacing... I don't know if that is the same for the LT1 or not?

If someone has a set of heads sitting around, they could check it easily enough. Then you just need to check it against the girdle.

Good luck.

-Mindgame

 

No need to check. I've been using a Comp Cams stud girdle on my LT1 heads for a couple of years. The girdle fits the valve spacing with no problem. The centerbolt in the valve covers is a serious issue. I used an adaptor to fit traditional small block valve covers.

 

Chuck,
if the valve spacing is different but it works fine then what are your opinions on the comp guideplates being used on the LT1 head as opposed to the GM plates?

 

I used the Isky adjustable guide plates that are in two pieces with an interlocking segment. We set the head on the block, dropped in the lifters and pushrods, and allowed each segment of the guideplate to shift to its optimum position before tightening the rocker stud to hold it in place. Then we tack-welded the two interlocking segments. When each set of guideplates were tacked and cooled, I marked them so that they would go back on the head on the same cylinder. After that, I bolted them firmly to an old cast iron head as a jig to avoid distortion and tig-welded the two halves of the guide plate more completely. Be advised that the tangs of the guideplate must be clearanced to accommodate 3/8 pushrods. If I were going to do it over, I'd just order Jesel rockers from the outset. By the time I bought all the individual components to the system I ended up with, the cost difference would have been inconsequential.

c.

 

That would depend on how old that sbc 'stuff' is. If old enuf, definately a different valve spread.

 

Oh it [ older bars} "had" a differant spread...
all 1955~1997 sbc are not the same valve spread as I found out yesterday at about 9pm.

Your right arnie

 

hot rod, check out melrose t tops (melroset-tops.com) they make a sweet setup, called the rigid system. its a stud gurdle for lt1s with valve covers that bolt to the gurdle. i have their valve covers with a jesel shaft set up. the covers clear everything but have no holes for breather,etc so i cut them in myself. it goes for $300

 

sorry to bring back an old thread, but i am very disapointed in my melrose valve covers, i bought the "rigid" system, and the girdles didnt line up right with the studs, they didnt clear my alternator, and they leak like all hell once i FINALLY got them on there...anyone else who runs these have these problems?

 

i used that setup on my old 396. i had no problems with it. lined up perfectly on the poly-locks and didnt have any leaks.

now a buddy of mine has it on his 355. he has the alternator in the stock location still which i didnt, and the cover did end up hitting it. some grinding on the alt and cover fixed it no problem