I am looking to build a stock crank forged piston 355 with a set of aftermarket I or H beams. My question is what type?where? and how much for a nice set of rods and pistons? Any ideas on a 7/16 stud rocker? This whole combination will be in my daily driver so nothing too crazy is necessary. Thanks Derek

 

There are plenty of other questions you need to answer, but I think this belongs more in LT1 Engine than Advanced. How much do you want to spend is probably the largest factor. You can only go as fast as your wallet can take you.

 

If your stock rods are in good shape, why not re-use them? There are many good piston brands. For a mild build, the KB hypereutectics are nice. Why do you specifically want a forged piston? Unless it's a blower or nitrous car, or running very high compression, you don't need them and they have some disadvantages.

Yes, this belongs in LT1 Tech.

 

rskrause is correct, you don't need forged pistons, aftermarket rods or 7/16 stud rockers for a daily driver or a mild bracket race engine for that mater. Actually, you don't need to bore the block if the standard bore is in good shape. This adds plenty of expense with little value for what you want to do.

Spend your money on a good port job, camshaft, tune-up and drive train, low 11s to high 10 second time slips are with in reach with out breaking the bank.

 

How good are the stock rods? (i.e. what hp level?) The upgrade to 7/16" studs is only about $35, IMO you might as well since you should get new studs anyways. Crane rockers are actually cheaper in 7/16".

 

I ran a set of stock PM rods in a 7000 RPM bracket 355 running high 10's to low 11's for the last 3 years, I'd say they are strong enough for the average street strip effort 500 HP or less. Over 500 HP/7000 RPM, Id rather go with an earlier forged rod or and aftermarket replacement.

As for the 7/16 studs, spring pressure determines the need. The key is getting a quality piece like ARP.

 

If you are running a big cam, certainly get 7/16" studs. Stock rods are quite adequate for a mild buildup if they are in good shape, as the above post describes. I agree that I trust the earlier forged rods more, but some very knowledgable people say the PM rods are stronger. The Howard's aftermarket PM rods are getting a very good reputation and they run ~$500. I have not used them.

Rich

 

Stock rods are perfectly adequate. I've never broken one- well, not such that it was the fault of the rod itself, anyway.

Stock rod BOLTS are different story, however. That's the one part of the bottom end I ALWAYS upgrade, even for mild engines. I prefer ARP WaveLoc bolts, but there are plenty of good ones out there. Get them installed BEFORE they resize the big end of the rod. The bolts are always the weakest part of the rod, so it makes sense to use good parts in that area. Cheap insurance if you accidentally zing the motor on a missed shift.

Also agreed that larger 7/16" rocker studs are a good idea IF you haven't bought your rockers yet (7/16 and 3/8" rockers are about the same price)! I mean, it's the anchor/fulcrum point for the whole valve train so having that point be as solid and inflexible as possible is a good idea.

 

I've got the Howards rods and so far so good. Think they are rated for 8000 rpm and 800 hp. Was more interested in them being lightweight more than anything. Just make sure you get the good rod bolts as they have optional ones. Probably don't need them.

Basically getting a kick out of this string as there is so much BS going around. For a while they were pushing 7/16's studs saying you would pick up 8-10 hp because of valve train stability. Wish just changing a few bolts did that.