95ttoplt1

All right, you guys have this Gen 1 think really biting at me now.

I was going to run the LT1 for the reverse cooling but I guess I can plumb it externally and get the same effect and have a better block as well so I'm about to jump. I just have a couple questions.

Things I was going to do to the LT1 block:
Lifter index
Cam bore trued
Bores Indexed
4 bolt splayed and all 5 billet caps
Half fill
Maybe roller cam bearings
Decked
Valley stands
Valley screens

So if I get the Little M block would I still need to do all of this or is it all done when it comes?

Please speak from experience as I know what the sales brochure says, I'm juts curious as to how accurate what they put out is, or if I will have to do it all again$$$$

I'm thinking of 350 mains and a 4.125 bore. I already have a real nice crank and rods out of Steve Quinns old motor(Cola, Eagle L19) Would this work in the Little M, the crank is a one piece

I figure that much more bore with a relativly short stroke would make a nice drag motor.

Any input??

rskrause

Lifter index: Should not be needed on the M and probably not needed on the stocker (can be checked).
Cam bore trued: as above.
Bores Indexed: as above.
4 bolt splayed and all 5 billet caps: the M has 'em.
Half fill: a matter of preference for the M, I'd do it on a stocker hi-po buildup.
Maybe roller cam bearings : not unless this is a MAX effort buildup.
Decked: The deck height on the M is 9.025”. It should be true, but needs to be checked. If you want a different deck height, that's another machining operation needed. The stocker needs it.
Valley stands: do not come with the block.
Valley screens: ditto.

The M is for a two piece rear main. It is not ready to assemble. Needs a finish cylinder bore/hone to desired size/finish and the mains should be aligned honed to desired clearance. Everything else should be checked. As described above, may need to be decked. Should you have to do this for what they charge? No, but you do. Locally, going to the best local shop (which is very good) it costs $5-600 up to have an aftermarket block prepped. Buddy just did a Dart BB, mnachine shop bill was ~$700 including local pickup and delivery. Stock block prep will go for ~$1,000 up depending what is done.

The thing that was surprising to me when I learned it was that the aftermarket blocks are not plug-n-play. Quite a bit needs to be done to get one ready. And if you are building a motor stout enough to need one, checking everything a number of times is a damn good idea anyway.

Rich

95ttoplt1

Hmm so whats the big advantage?? I'm planning on getting as close to 1000hp at the flywheel as I can, with alot of nitrous being used.

Is the stregth difference gonna be worth while at my moderate power levels?

Will the one piece crank even work in the Little M?

MachinistOne

Get a GM Bowtie block or a Dart block, better quality than the world products stuff...and you can get them for a one-piece rear seal.

95ttoplt1

Little M is a Dart

rskrause

A 1,000 is not moderate hp for a small block. Yes, a better block (Dart or Bowtie) is a good idea. It will run ~$1,000-1,500 more than a prepped stocker. Considering the overall cost for a reliable 1,000hp SB, that is not significant.

Rich

95ttoplt1

Thats what I was thinking.

I was budgeting about 2500 for the block itself, and I have seen the Little M with the billet caps new for ~1600 so I should be able to get it on budget.


Anyone else have any input or experience here??

95ttoplt1

Which Dart block has a one piece? I looked through there catalog and didn't see it.


But the 1,000 dollar question, will my one piece crank work in a 2 piece block?? I have a really nice Cola crank that I want to use and I got a screaming deal on it.

95ttoplt1

I looked for a bow-tie block and they seem rated very low.

I have heard a LT1 blocks can handle 1k HP but these "race blocks" are rated to 850??

I take it these are very conservative numbers??

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=628.html

here the link to all the bow tie blocks, of which the highest rated 1 piece rear main will handle 450hp, I am hoping these are super conservative, as an LE2 package makes more power than that.

MachinistOne

Yeah - I got the Little M and Motown mixed up, I am used to them being called Iron eagle so I just call it by the manufacturer, dart, GMPP, etc.

Here:
http://www.sdparts.com/product/12480...tmanBlock.aspx

I use this block a lot, very nice out of the crate.

Brady

Little M and Iron Eagle are different blocks, both by dart.

MachinistOne

Yes....? Like I said...I am used to associating Iron eagle with Dart, I have not used the Little M block only the Iron eagles - So when I saw M, I thought of the lower quality Motown blocks that have come across the bench. All of our modifieds and road race cars use Bowtie blocks, several sprinters have the Iron eagle block.

95ttoplt1

How much work does that block usually require to get it close to what a fully blueprinted stock block would be in terms of accuracy??

I looked at the link you posted and it says it is the same as block number 24502503 the only difference being the 1 piece seal. But when you loook up the 24502503 it says it comes with 8620 steel caps, and is rated to 700hp@8500. The block you listed says Nodular mains?

Will this block hold what I am going to do to it, or do I need a rocket block??

I plan on being as close to 700hp N/A as I can and then spray the difference.

Does anyon e know if a one piece rear seal crank will fit in a two piece rear seal block?? Anyone??

rskrause

You can get an adapter to use an old style crank (2-pc. rear main) on a new (1-pc.) block, but not vice versa.

You are getting to hung up on this block thing. People have made 1,000hp on well prepped stock blocks. But given the cost of a project like this, the vast majority of people doing it will opt for the aftermarket block. The additional cost, in light of the total, should not be an issue. It's easier to get big displacement with an aftermarket (or Bowtie) block and they are stronger. But no 1,000hp small block is going to have OEM levels of reliability anyway (unless you drive it like a Granny). The parts are just too small and the stresses too high. Pay no attention to these "ratings", they are completely undefined. No one knows what they mean.

The "Rocket" block is machined for a 2-piece seal. It approaches being an "exotic" piece though with raised cam bores and spread oil pan rails, etc. I think you need to discuss your goals as a whole package with an engine builder - you are getting to much of your info from the Web, IMHO.

Rich

95ttoplt1

Screw it I'm staying LT1. I have talked to a couple local builders and they said it would hold with which ever I used.

Just seems kinda silly to me to drop 1500+ on a block only to pay to get it machined correctly which I can do with a block I already own.