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Lets talk exhaust....

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Old Mar 31, 2003 | 11:26 PM
  #1  
96z's Avatar
96z
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Lets talk exhaust....

I think it can be agreed on that a true dual exhaust is better than the catback that are normally offered for our cars....but is it the best possible design?

Specifcally and descriptively why is it better, and which is better an X pipe or H pipe? What are the advantages of each as far as RPM and amount of peak HP and TQ. Its always a debate as to whether a 2.5" or 3" system is better. Outside of those two what advantages or disadvantages if any would a dual 2" or 4" system have?

Is there a "perfect" exhaust design in general? How is the design of the exhaust affected by the cam, specifically the exhaust duration?

Just trying to dig a little deeper than usual "loss of backpressure" and too "free flowing" of an exhaust.
Old Apr 1, 2003 | 04:32 PM
  #2  
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Some thoughts on exhaust systems for 500+ hp F-cars:

1) Exhaust has to be matched to power the engine is producing. If you have a 500+ FWHP 383, and don't want to lose 10-15% of that power, you need a system equivalent to a dual 3 in diameter non-restrictive system. More below.

2) If you are willing to use two properly installed cut outs (noise is no problem for you) when you are running hard, you can fabricate a system that is about zero hp loss with cutouts open, but is still fairly good (maybe less than 50 hp total loss) thru the large muffler. I've never seen this design for sale, but I'll show it to you if you wish. 3 inch back from the Y would be good if a high flow muffler was used.

3) Generally the muffler flow, or restriction to flow, is a much bigger problem than pipe size. Unless you have flow numbers for a muffler, stick to those like Dynomax Ultraflo welded, where flow numbers are published.

4) If I couldn't (or wouldn't) use cutouts, and wanted most of my 500 hp useful on the street, with a reasonable noise level, I would consider this: 3 inch, mandrel bent pipes behind the 3 inch collector headers. These would "Y" into a 4 inch single pipe back and over the axle and then thru a 4 to 3-1/2 reducer cone into maybe a Ultraflow 17224 (3-1/2 inlet and outlet VERY high flow) muffler. Outlet would be on 3-1/2 mandrel bent elbow, thru a 3-1/2 to 3 in reducer cone and a 3 inch resonator (24222 Bullet) and a 3 inch tip on the left side outlet. This would be the most expensive street system, but you rarely get what you don't pay for.

5) A 4 inch tube flows within 90% of TWO 3 inch tubes, so a well designed 3s-into-4 Y pipe works.

6) As gas cools off from 1200F or so at the head to maybe 300F or less at the tailpipe, the volume decreases a lot, so as it cools along the system you really need to keep decreasing the pipe size to keep the flow at the same speed. That's why the reduction from 4 to 3-1/2 for the muffler and 3 inch tailpipe, which also helps noise. Hey, if you are above 550 FWHP, continue the 3-1/2 outlet, 3-1/2 bullet resonator and tailpipe.

7) Bends cause lots more restriction than straight pipe, so that's why the 4 inch until it's over the axle.

8) As far as true duals dumping out in front of the wheels, ground clearance would be my big concern. Again muffler restriction would be the problem; I'd use UltraFlow welded 17220s on each side. I know that 2 will support about 600 hp without much loss. A 2-1/2 or larger H-pipe would help both power and noise. An X-pipe might be marginally better, but if it didn't fit, or had extra bends I'd use the H-pipe. We're only talking a couple of hp here. With all that dumping under the doors, the noise would be pretty annoying, IMO. Of course, this would be the easiest and least costly good-flowing system.

9) IMO, cam duration, etc. doesn't change exhaust system design unless you are using merge collectors or 180 degree headers. I don't think either of these are in the picture, right?

10) Remember that we're talking about power levels almost twice what a stock LT1 kicks out. All of the stuff above would be overkill and mostly a waste of $ for a basically stock engine.

My highly-opinionated $.02.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 08:13 PM
  #3  
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Very informative and thorough response.

Well I ended up going with a true 3" dual set up exactly like this one. I used to have a 3" mufflex y pipe to a 3" catback with cutout....and without cats it was LOUD. This system shouldnt be as loud but I do like loud exhuasts so I can deal with the noise.

Dont loud pipes save lives?
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 08:58 PM
  #4  
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I like most of the above comments, but I have a few more thoughts to add.

I'm not a fan of "in front of tire" exits. There tend to be annoying if driving near any walls or Jersey barriers since sound is reflected directly back to the side window. I like to hear my stereo & not smell exhaust fumes. I had these on a few "limited" street drivers & was glad I didn't have to drive this way every day.

True 3" duals to the rear bumper are a tight fit above the panhard rod & require some mods to fit. 3" duals are not generally required over 2-1/2" tubing unless over 450hp. Dropping a size smaller for tail pipes will reduce noise substantially & ease fitment. I have a 3" dual system that is 100db at idle. Setting off car alarms in parking lots is common. No tickets, but expecting one everytime I drive the car. Full throttle sound is comparable to a Harley with drag pipes. Inside the car is loud, but somewhat livable. There is not much room for mufflers except at the rear bumper location & only small straight thru units fit here. Quieter mufflers are available & ground clearance is fair, but admittedly there isn't much room under the left side of the car for exhaust. Doing it again, I would probably go with a single 4" with dual 3" tips.

A dual 3" y-pipe into a 4" single will result in nearly the same flow with substantially less noise & no clearance problems under the car. This does not require a H-pipe, X-pipe or any other fabrication.... plus they have a nice sound.

Thought I would share my experiences.

Last edited by Lonnie Pavtis; Apr 2, 2003 at 09:04 PM.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 09:01 PM
  #5  
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one thing i haven't read about yet is WEIGHT....needs to be taken into account also when doing an exhaust system

otherwise i've learned a bunch
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 09:15 PM
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Originally posted by 89ProchargedROC
one thing i haven't read about yet is WEIGHT....needs to be taken into account also when doing an exhaust system

Good point.

How about this math:

3500 lb gross weight / 500hp = 7 lbs/hp

If exhaust frees up 50 hp, that's worth 7 x 50 = 350 lbs ???

Let's say the suggested system wieghs 80 lbs more than a minimal system. (that's high really. 8 feet of 4 inch exhaust tubing weighs 21 lbs). 80/7=11.4 hp. If the system gives 12 hp more, it's a push. Besides putting stuff behind the rear axle not only adds rear weight, it removes front weight!

OK, more weight IS harder to accelerate, but big 50 hp gain is probably worth the weight penalty.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 09:19 PM
  #7  
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Originally posted by 96z

Dont loud pipes save lives?
WHAT DID YOU SAY? CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER MY IMPALA'S PIPES.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 10:48 PM
  #8  
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That pic looks oddly familiar

And ill throw in Chucks old comparo for some good dyno results:

Originally posted by Mr. Horsepower
Ok guys, as promised in the other thread I have the dyno results from the dual swap. First off, I'm not making any claims as to which exhaust you should run, just giving you the numbers.... so do with them as you see fit.
I would also prefer not getting into the combination as this is not my car. It belongs to a friend. I know a little about the setup but I don't want to turn this into a "What cam is he running" questionathon (my own word there ).
I will tell you this much... the heads are AFR 200's and I did about an hours worth of cleanup/blending on them last year. The cam is a custom ground Isky hydraulic roller and the other mods are as follows...
1.6:1 CC Magnum rockers, TPIS 1-3/4 headers, ported intake, K&N CAI, Granatelli MAF, AS&M 52mm TB, T56 w/LT4 clutch assembly. Oh yeah, it's a 383 running 11.3:1 compression. That's really about all I know other than the fact that I built the exhaust for it.

Ok, this car was running a 4" Mufflex catback and Rich replaced the Flowmaster with a Borla XR-1. Here are the dyno results from last weekend. I had to transfer these from the dyno graph so they aren't 100% accurate... good enough for this comparison though.

2000 rpm 139 rwhp/356 rwtq
2500 rpm 177/365
3000 rpm 226/395
3500 rpm 288/443
4000 rpm 341/459
4500 rpm 388/443
5000 rpm 408/428
5500 rpm 416/405
5600 rpm 418/396 (rwhp peak)

Tonight we tested the duals. This setup uses 3" to 2.5" transitions right off the collector. It then goes into the Dr. Gas x-pipe and then through a chambered muffler similiar to that used in the CMMG catback system. The system then exits at the side ahead of the rear wheel. It's a 2.5" system. There is a noticable tone difference with this setup. The x-pipe also creates a higher pitch exhaust note in comparison to the 'Y' or a straight dual setup.
Anyways, here are the results...

2000 rpm 150/370
2500 rpm 189/383
3000 rpm 236/416
3500 rpm 292/455
4000 rpm 339/458
4500 rpm 385/442
5000 rpm 413/430
5500 rpm 422/412
5600 rpm 426/401

Obviously the x-pipe is making some good torque over the Mufflex up til about 4000 rpm. From there til just past 4500 rpm the "Y" is winning, then the edge goes back to the x-pipe. This is usually typical of an x-pipe dual exhaust unless the situation is compensated for through valve timing. A little less exhaust duration would probably help gain back some of that torque loss in the 3500-4500 rpm range. AFR's generally have good exhaust ports so that only compounds the problem, which I'd conclude is a loss of volumetric efficiency in that rpm range. Maybe a swap to 1.5's on the exhaust would help. Either way, it warrants a little experimentation.

That's a wrap on the test so, considering this combination is pretty much inline with what most of you are doing, you can draw your own conclusions and go from there.

Any questions?

Take care,
Chuck Riddeck
Progressive Race Engine Development
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 11:04 PM
  #9  
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From: mt. holly, nc , usa
if you running a true dual set up weather it be 2.5" or 3" what is the true need for the x pipe or the h pipe? just for equalization or just sound?

Kmook- i bet i've seen that pic atleast 200 times now. that vid of your car is awesome too.
Rob
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 11:17 PM
  #10  
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Yes my exhaust is modeled after kmooks. I should have cited that in my post, but that pic is common place now on the board.

Anywho the weight difference between the dual set up I have(which is the same as in the pic), and a mufflex y, flowtech cutout, and flowmaster catback I used to have is 14lbs...with the duals being the lighter of the two.

Last edited by 96z; Apr 2, 2003 at 11:20 PM.
Old Apr 3, 2003 | 01:44 AM
  #11  
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Reading Chucks post and talking with Old Stroker about it is interesting.

One thing I think that will work well with your new engine and exhuast is that the exhaust timing should like the duals. That's a good benefit.

Bret
Old Apr 8, 2003 | 04:24 AM
  #12  
WS6 TA's Avatar
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That setup in that pic should probably have the turn downs turned in rather then out. It would be significantly quieter and less annoying on the street when driving by surfaces that reflect exhaust sound.

I’d bet that most of the HP differences between that dual/X-pipe setup and the 4” cat back is in eliminating the part that goes over the axle… bends suck for exhaust flow. If you made something like the setup in that pic but at the location of the x just put a nice y-pipe and then a single 4” with a 4” muffler of the same design and turn down you’d make better power then most.

Remember, exhaust restriction depends on surface area of the tubing, so you’ll get more flow out of a single larger pipe then dual smaller pipes with the same cross sectional area.

Of course, single exhausts never sound as good as duals
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