I'm doing a Hard Blok "short fill" (to the bottom of the freeze plugs) on the new motor. I noticed that the knock sensor screws into the lower water jacket hole. Where can I relocate it to...Or...Should I just have it "tuned out" and leave it where it was originally?

Frank

 

I am about there. just need to clean the inside passages one more time.

Here is what I am doing. it looks like the back plugs (in trans area) are going to be my mark. You will need to install the plug at the starter to do this as it is lower then all the others.

Before I fill I am going to install the plugs and then cut some surgical hose to slip over the plugs at a 90*. I am going to put the tubes in from the deck and make sure they are going to stay in place. I might use a string from front to back to hold it in place as well.

Then I am going level the block and pour in my fill then vibrate accordingly, Slap the head gasket and head on and TQ to spec. leave for a day or two then do the other side. then I will slide it under my bench till after Christmas. Pull the heads and tubes and clean again.

After that I will send it off for finish machine work

That is my plan, options are welcome

 

Not a bad way to do it Ellis,

I'd just drill and tap the motor above the hard block in the water passages then you have the drain and the knock sensor hole all done.

It shouldn't effect knock sensor operation.

Bret

 

if you are filling a street motor, another option is to angle fill the block, since the thrust side is your primary concern, you can run it a little higher there and still get good cooling

 

Jordon where you before I started tonite?

LOL anyways I poured the first side and got the head on it tonite. I will do the other side tomorrow

After looking and measureing I put half a Moroso Gallon jug in. This came up about a 1/4 inch over the back plug I was using as my referance point. Looks like about 2 inches of fill leaving plenty for cooling. I filled it enough to tie the Lifter galley into the rest of the block nisly LOL.

Hopefully it does it's job. My instructions(of line) say this should do the trick

 

well I finished pouring it and bolting it together tonite. I guess we will know more December 21!

 

Has anyone had problems with these blocks were they actually needed to fill them? I know most of it is just a safety procaution.

 

i did mine last year. got rid of the knock sensor. no cooling problems what so ever. the idea is to get rid of block flex making the cyilinders true er and tying the mains together stronger. make sure you have it bored and honed after you do it or just honed this will move the block around alittle. as far as the heads thats not needed when they bore and hone it they will use headplates.

 

Can you go into some more detail on the particulars of "Angle Filling"?

 

Well there are other benifits like reduced harmonics also Moroso(and many others I contacted) says to TQ the heads on. This keeps stress from rising in areas at the edge of the pour.

If I am correct in what Jordon is thinking you would tip the lifter side down more to get more filler near the lifter bores and the main thurst are?

 

Yea, but remember that the thrust side is different for each side of the motor.

Thats how I filled my 401ci, as I was VERY paranoid about cooling, since I road raced that motor.

 

Ellis-
Where did you get your instructions from? Do you have a link? Thanks!!

 

Pony. I down loaded the instructions from Moroso's site.

My trick with the Knock sensors worked I used Air fittings in the holes with Surgical rubber hose inside. I put the hose inside the fitting then strung it up through the deck. stuff papper towel in the hole to hold it and cut it off even with the deck.

Today I pulled the tape off and blew air thorugh the holes! I am happy.

 

Thanks Ellis! Glad your little trick worked! I may have to look into that also.