The infamous obd1/high stall converter problem
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by chevy94c:
What does ed charge for it 4DRSS?
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What does ed charge for it 4DRSS?
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I guess I'm just simple, but why not run a manual valve body? So you shift the car yourself, big deal. No problem with stall speed, and more control over when the car shifts. I really like the manual valve body and the B&M Pro Ratchet is great. It is like having a manual without the clutch. I get the best of both worlds.
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'94 Black Z28, 383, 700R4
1/8 ET: 7.49
1/4 ET: 11.86
1/4 MPH: 112
http://www.downtime.cz28.com.index.html
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'94 Black Z28, 383, 700R4
1/8 ET: 7.49
1/4 ET: 11.86
1/4 MPH: 112
http://www.downtime.cz28.com.index.html
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by tnthub:
I guess I'm just simple, but why not run a manual valve body? So you shift the car yourself, big deal. No problem with stall speed, and more control over when the car shifts. I really like the manual valve body and the B&M Pro Ratchet is great. It is like having a manual without the clutch. I get the best of both worlds.
</font>
I guess I'm just simple, but why not run a manual valve body? So you shift the car yourself, big deal. No problem with stall speed, and more control over when the car shifts. I really like the manual valve body and the B&M Pro Ratchet is great. It is like having a manual without the clutch. I get the best of both worlds.
</font>
Shifting manually on the tree is out of the question for me. A console shifter like the F-bodies maybe, but not in an Impy. You don't know how many shifts I missed shifting manually before I got this fixed.Call me lazy but I just want to mash the gas and GO!

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1995 Impala SS
12.45 @105.51
Stock shortblock, no power adders, and full weight.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 4DRSS:
You obviously don't have a granny column shifter like I do
Shifting manually on the tree is out of the question for me. A console shifter like the F-bodies maybe, but not in an Impy. You don't know how many shifts I missed shifting manually before I got this fixed.</font>
You obviously don't have a granny column shifter like I do
Shifting manually on the tree is out of the question for me. A console shifter like the F-bodies maybe, but not in an Impy. You don't know how many shifts I missed shifting manually before I got this fixed.</font>

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Call me lazy but I just want to mash the gas and GO!
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Just kiddin, man
Your SS is bad *** 
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Cheston P - IM_A_0@yahoo.com AIM:Impalaitis
96 BBB Impala SS "ADIOSS"
91 white Caprice 'n0n 9c1' w/L03
GM_TBI listserv
GMForums.com
ImpalaSSForum.com
[This message has been edited by AdioSS (edited April 25, 2002).]
O.k., I have been carefully reading this thread.
My car is fine w/ the 2800 Vigi. I have a chance to go up to the 3800 Vigi. But after reading all this, I am afraid to. I have
a 95 that is OBDI as well.
So, would I have to do this vaccum MOD or not? Or would the programming ED would do FIX it? And I wouldn't have to worry about burning up the tranny???
What is the straight answer on this? Thanks for the help....
My car is fine w/ the 2800 Vigi. I have a chance to go up to the 3800 Vigi. But after reading all this, I am afraid to. I have
a 95 that is OBDI as well.
So, would I have to do this vaccum MOD or not? Or would the programming ED would do FIX it? And I wouldn't have to worry about burning up the tranny???
What is the straight answer on this? Thanks for the help....
Spoke to Ed a couple days ago. I was told that there isn't any surefire obd1 fix. His programming might work on some cars but others it won't. He said since his programming didn't work on mine before nothing has changed that would make it work now. Oh well, I guess I have no choice but to wait it out or just go to obd2.
I definitely want the tranny controller but I've got other problems to take care of first so it may be gone by then.
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94 Z28 auto.White with white wheels.A few mods. 12.01 @113.5 N/A with a 1.67 60' on bfgs
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94 Z28 auto.White with white wheels.A few mods. 12.01 @113.5 N/A with a 1.67 60' on bfgs
Well I was talkin to my buddy Ryan (AHARTZ28) and he said he was an A4 with a 4400 stall. I said oh so your obd2 and he said no obd1. So he said he got around the 'infamous' problem by doing this:
Anyone have comments?
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Set your RPMS for the shift at 1200 then set a MPH whatever you want make sure it is well below the rev limiter it takes about 600 rpms sometimes to shift completely maybe more you have to test it a bunch of times to get it right, that way it clears the RPM flag right away an only looks for the MPH.</font>
Last edited by kmook; Sep 15, 2002 at 02:43 PM.
I am STILL looking for some one to test new ideas to fix this 
Ken yes that seems to be a hit and miss way. We tried it but it did not Always work
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Ellis
Team Captain
Team North West F-Body
www.teamnwfbody.org

Ken yes that seems to be a hit and miss way. We tried it but it did not Always work

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Ellis
Team Captain
Team North West F-Body
www.teamnwfbody.org
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by LTOne4Fun:
Its not just a stall rating, its also how hard you hit the tires. Dave just get eht tranny controller!</font>
Its not just a stall rating, its also how hard you hit the tires. Dave just get eht tranny controller!</font>
My best 60' is in the sig.
A couple of weeks ago I was running at Woodburn, OR. Hoosier QTP's at 12 lbs. Stage up, go! Car hooked hard. A buddy of mine was at the rear of my car in the staging area. He told me the car hooked hard.
I get to my 1-2 shift point, it keeps going and I hit the rev limiter. I back out, it shifts. I throttle, car backfires big time with a large cloud of black smoke, according to my buddy.
I roll back into throttle kinda wondering if I messed something up ended up rolling back to WOT with a run of 13.1 @ 107mph.
Get back to staging lanes car is stuck in third gear. Turn car off and the tranny resumes normal operation. I did not run it anymore that day and have not run it since. This happened with a 2800 vigilante.
Hope to run it again here soon in the cooler fall weather looking for 11's.
By the way this launch was a 1.71 60' But it really hooked hard. You all know how you can tell when it hooks!
Ellis I wil discuss this with ya on IM.
Ken
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95 Z28, BBK 52 mm throttle body, ported MAF ends, K&N CAI, ASP Pulleys, 160 thermostat, PCM by WWW.PCMFORLESS, LT4 KM, Heads by WWW.flow-technics.com, 2.055 int/1.57 exh. valves, 1.6 RR's, CC XE 230/236 544/556 112 LSA, Comp "R" lifters, Comp Magnum pushrods, FMS 24# SVO injectors, Meziere WP, Jet Hot coated Hooker LT's, Flowmaster cat back exh., PI Vig 2800-3000 TC, Strange 3.73 gears. Dyno numbers to come soon.
60' 1.690
1/8 7.674
MPH trap broke
1/4 12.059
MPH 113.00
My car www.teamnwfbody.org/members/mcdonald.htm
VID: CCXE230/236 thru Hooker LT's
I know that one day Ed Wright or someone will figure the cause of this "no 1-2 shift limp mode upon hard launch" I hope so.
Let me add my experience to this thread.
I've had the no 1-2 shift -> limp to 3rd gear happen many times over the last 7 years in my 95 impala SS.
The 1st time this happened was when my tranny was nearing end of life, (about 4 year old tranny with 300 mild 1/4 runs). I did not have a high stall converter and the car only went low 14's. I think I loaded up on the converter at the starting line. If I remember correctly, 2000 rpm or so. 60' times were probably only 1.9 to 2.0 The air was very cold too. Then someone told me to start the 1/4 run in manual 1 and to my suprise, the tranny shifted perfectly.
Since then I've had a 4000 stall Vigilante behind a 383LT1 natural. Never had the no shift problem. But I quit loading up the converter at the starting line. I launch from a tick off idle all the time now. Tranny always shifted perfectly accept when it was cold I would get a 2-3 flair up.
Now just last year I removed my 383 for the winter and put in a very mildly cammed 350LT1 and went to Cecil on a freezing cold day to try for some record ET's in the impala world. I wasn't bracket racing so I shallow staged and loaded up on the converter, (also starting in manual 1), and low and behold, no 1-2 shift --> direct to 3rd gear limp. I actually thought that I was too slow on the 1-2 shift and that it was my fault and I simply hit the rev limiter so I return for the 2nd attempt and am concentrating on being quick with my manual shift into 2nd gear. I loaded up the converter, (gives me a quicker ET), and launched and make the shift before my shift light but BAM---NO 1-2 --> directly to 3rd gear limp. I quit for the day.
Then it dawned on me...I had quit loading up the converter and now I'm back to loading up the converter and now I'm not getting the shift.
2 weeks later I drove with that same tranny down to Florida and launched just off idle, (warm air), and had perfect shifts.
I think that the problem could possibly be a some sort of torque converter slippage protection, and not VSS related. Whatever. I do know how to NOT get the no 1-2. I always launch from near idle. Never load up on the converter. Remember, this is in a heavy car with a 4000 vigi. (no heat problems here either and no tranny problems out of the ordinary).
Hope this adds info for you guys to figure the problem out. I've got Ed Wright tuning and I'm hoping that I'm the first to get the code fix on this if Ed or you guys nuke it out.
Karl Ellwein, 95 Impala SS, Ed Wright tuning,
12.38 @ 110 with Natural 350LT1, ARE Heads, Crane 227 cam
12.15 @ 112 with Natural 383LT1, ARE Heads, Solid Roller cam
Let me add my experience to this thread.
I've had the no 1-2 shift -> limp to 3rd gear happen many times over the last 7 years in my 95 impala SS.
The 1st time this happened was when my tranny was nearing end of life, (about 4 year old tranny with 300 mild 1/4 runs). I did not have a high stall converter and the car only went low 14's. I think I loaded up on the converter at the starting line. If I remember correctly, 2000 rpm or so. 60' times were probably only 1.9 to 2.0 The air was very cold too. Then someone told me to start the 1/4 run in manual 1 and to my suprise, the tranny shifted perfectly.
Since then I've had a 4000 stall Vigilante behind a 383LT1 natural. Never had the no shift problem. But I quit loading up the converter at the starting line. I launch from a tick off idle all the time now. Tranny always shifted perfectly accept when it was cold I would get a 2-3 flair up.
Now just last year I removed my 383 for the winter and put in a very mildly cammed 350LT1 and went to Cecil on a freezing cold day to try for some record ET's in the impala world. I wasn't bracket racing so I shallow staged and loaded up on the converter, (also starting in manual 1), and low and behold, no 1-2 shift --> direct to 3rd gear limp. I actually thought that I was too slow on the 1-2 shift and that it was my fault and I simply hit the rev limiter so I return for the 2nd attempt and am concentrating on being quick with my manual shift into 2nd gear. I loaded up the converter, (gives me a quicker ET), and launched and make the shift before my shift light but BAM---NO 1-2 --> directly to 3rd gear limp. I quit for the day.
Then it dawned on me...I had quit loading up the converter and now I'm back to loading up the converter and now I'm not getting the shift.
2 weeks later I drove with that same tranny down to Florida and launched just off idle, (warm air), and had perfect shifts.
I think that the problem could possibly be a some sort of torque converter slippage protection, and not VSS related. Whatever. I do know how to NOT get the no 1-2. I always launch from near idle. Never load up on the converter. Remember, this is in a heavy car with a 4000 vigi. (no heat problems here either and no tranny problems out of the ordinary).
Hope this adds info for you guys to figure the problem out. I've got Ed Wright tuning and I'm hoping that I'm the first to get the code fix on this if Ed or you guys nuke it out.
Karl Ellwein, 95 Impala SS, Ed Wright tuning,
12.38 @ 110 with Natural 350LT1, ARE Heads, Crane 227 cam
12.15 @ 112 with Natural 383LT1, ARE Heads, Solid Roller cam


