well i have a engine that im building for my 3rd gen and i was just wondering if im boreder line with my rods.
the engine should make atleast 400hp NA. then i think im gunna spray some ntrous on top of that. i already have forged pistons, but i have been thinking about my rods alot latley.

 

That's good. You might consider changing to a moderatly priced stronger rod. A few engine builders on the forum can suggest good candidates. Better yet, ask your engine builder....unless he is you.

 

yea im the builder, i was thinking like some eagel H beams.

 

My old 383 had stock 400 rods, rod bolts and stock cast pistons. After 2 years of racing and about 200 passes down the track, I finally either threw a rod or broke a piston. I estimate I was making about 550 hp NA at the time and was running very high 11's.

If you start to use any kind of power adder, buy aftermarket rods just to be safe. I just switched from some Cat I-beam rods to some Eagle H-beam rods because I was starting to get over the HP limit of the I-beam rods. Even installing better rod bolts doesn't increase the strength of the rod. It just makes breaking a rod bolt a lower risk.

 

What are the limits of Cast pistons?

 

What rods do you have, are they in good shape? In general, a good set of Chevy rods ("pink" rods or the new PM rods) are quite adequate for a moderate motor if they are in good shape with decent rods bolts.

Rich

 

I beleive he was looking to make 400+ HP and then spraying on top of it. I think it's safe to assume that it would be wise to build the engine for at least 600hp.

Eagle makes a variety of 700hp rods in the $420 - $620 range that will work nicely.

Linky

But...

Howards has those nice new Powdered Metal rods that are good for 800+ HP, only weigh 585 grams and have a suggested retail price if $599.

And these are some kick-a$$ rods.

So basically, I think that's the way to go.

And as long as I've gone this far, a Callies Dragonslayer, which might be the best overall value in a crank on the market today; is around $800, give or take a few bucks.

That means that for under $1,500, you can get these groovy new PM rods and a great crank... good, solid foundation for any engine.

 

The engine was originally a "ram jet" 350 i just bought the long block. so im assuming it has the newer rods that you speak of. I was planning on puttin in ARP rod bolts.

 

My poweded metal rods are in great shape. so you think they are up to the task?

 

Yes.

Rich

 

Wow, I would say thats overkill for his setup. His rods should be up to task with some good bolts, another good alternative IMO is the Eagle or Scat I beams. The eagles are good for 500hp at 7500RPM's...so I doubt you would have any problems. Cuz there is a big difference between 500Hp at 6000, and 500 hp at 7500. I wouldn't even say that he needs anything over a Cast steel crank, or a plane jane 4130 or4340 scat or Eagle.

 

Your learning something kid!

 

Well I was putting down 422rwhp with my lt1 and it lasted awhile. It finally broke after beating on it all the time. The only thing that gave out was the wrist pin, b/c there pressed on. But i was also putting down like 480 at the flywheel. So I would say thats maxed out.

 

What can I say, I have good teachers.

 

Yes, it is.

But if you notice, I was making an assumption of 400hp + 200hp nitrous.

I got the 400 from the original post and the 200 from the reality that most people starting out with a 100-150 shot eventually want to spray 200 or more, if they can get away with it.

400 + 200 = 600

Once I was assuming 600hp, I wasn't looking at what he could use to squeak by, I was looking at what would represent a good value.


I tried to be clear about that in my first post. Maybe I didn't do a good job of it.