Heads/Cam/Intake Combo
Heads/Cam/Intake Combo
I have an Edelbrock Torker Intake with the matching cam, and a set of 305 (601) heads which I hope to port and polish. All valvetrain components are stock, and the engine is a 1970 Truck 350. In addition, I have a 1in raised Carter Competion AFB (700cfm I believe), Pete Jackson gear drive, stock exhaust manifold, and the pistons are dished. On the low-end, I don't know much else.
How does this all sound?
How does this all sound?
Here is something you should pick up....
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s..._ID=21&CATID=3
That's going to give you better cylinder head choices, better intake choices and some help with that flat tappet camshaft.
I would ditch the Torker and the 305 heads personally since something like Vortecs and a RPM Air Gap will do much better
Bret
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s..._ID=21&CATID=3
That's going to give you better cylinder head choices, better intake choices and some help with that flat tappet camshaft.
I would ditch the Torker and the 305 heads personally since something like Vortecs and a RPM Air Gap will do much better
Bret
Hell, if I had a choice I'd be running a turbo 502 vortec with EFI and headers, with everything shiny and new, but I don't have that choice.
All of those parts, except for the heads, distributor, and carb spacer came on the car. With all the work I've had to do on it, I've tried to do the best I could with what I had. I had to switch heads after a crack showed in my 350 heads, and I got the 601's for free.
I was just wondering what might be the weakest areas of my setup. The transaxle needs a lot of work. I still haven't gotten solid timing, and I need to re-tune the carb. I'm going to need to sell this car in a few monthes in order to move to Cali (can't make emissions), and I was just wondering if any specific area needs addressed.
With the existing cam, should I do any valvetrain upgrades? I have the lash adjusted to a 1/2 turn after valve-tap stops, except that I backed it out a little if I heard the engine idle lower during the adjusting. I didn't set lifter preload, mostly because I couldn't understand what it was and I was told it didn't matter.
It hasn't been running the greatest recently, but I'm not sure if it needs re-tuned and re-timed, or if it is just the 700r4 falling apart. We have 2 feet of snow here, so I've been planning to do some work, since I can't even get it out of the driveway.
I'm an enthusiast, but I don't have enough money to throw around to make my car how I want it. So I have to rely on what I can do for minimal investment.
All of those parts, except for the heads, distributor, and carb spacer came on the car. With all the work I've had to do on it, I've tried to do the best I could with what I had. I had to switch heads after a crack showed in my 350 heads, and I got the 601's for free.
I was just wondering what might be the weakest areas of my setup. The transaxle needs a lot of work. I still haven't gotten solid timing, and I need to re-tune the carb. I'm going to need to sell this car in a few monthes in order to move to Cali (can't make emissions), and I was just wondering if any specific area needs addressed.
With the existing cam, should I do any valvetrain upgrades? I have the lash adjusted to a 1/2 turn after valve-tap stops, except that I backed it out a little if I heard the engine idle lower during the adjusting. I didn't set lifter preload, mostly because I couldn't understand what it was and I was told it didn't matter.
It hasn't been running the greatest recently, but I'm not sure if it needs re-tuned and re-timed, or if it is just the 700r4 falling apart. We have 2 feet of snow here, so I've been planning to do some work, since I can't even get it out of the driveway.
I'm an enthusiast, but I don't have enough money to throw around to make my car how I want it. So I have to rely on what I can do for minimal investment.
Originally posted by noc_81
Hell, if I had a choice I'd be running a turbo 502 vortec with EFI and headers, with everything shiny and new, but I don't have that choice................
I'm an enthusiast, but I don't have enough money to throw around to make my car how I want it. So I have to rely on what I can do for minimal investment.
Hell, if I had a choice I'd be running a turbo 502 vortec with EFI and headers, with everything shiny and new, but I don't have that choice................
I'm an enthusiast, but I don't have enough money to throw around to make my car how I want it. So I have to rely on what I can do for minimal investment.
Sounds like this one just needs some tuining and then just get rid of it when you have too. Fix the little things and save your time and money for upgrades on the next project.
So I would seriously get that book, it's a great place to start to help you build some strong motors on very little money, for example a 383 that makes 475hp for less that $3K, and a full 385hp 350 for less that $2K so it will definately give you some good ideas.
It's a great place to get you started on new build ups and has more information in it than the average message board.
Bret
I'd say sell the torker, get and AIR GAP Rpm off ebay, get some pro topline vortecs, or some 180cc or 200cc pro topline heads, do a light port concentrating more on the exhuast, atleast get some cheap headers, i've got some double valve springs for $50, 1.46 should do 125 - 140 on the seat. a comp Xe274, atleast roller tip rockers, and i think you;d be doing good. You would be able to do that for ~$1200-$1500. Check out www.dynoflo.com for the heads, rockers, and valves. You'll have to give them a call for the best prices.
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