Hey guys, i was wondering what are my options beside the copper gasket. My block is oringed so i guess the regural 1074 felpros wont work.
Let me know.
Thanks
Marcin

 

I don't know of any. The o-ring needs to seal against the metal of the gasket. Most head gaskets don't have round bores and that pretty much leaves the copper gasket.

 

I just went through this nightmare. Do a search with my name and you'll see what people posted. I couldn't find a gasket that didn't intercept the o-ring, Victor Reinz, Mr. Gasket, Felpro. I ended up having someone weld in the groove, who later screwed the block up during the decking process, I wouldn't recommend the welding option that's for sure. I'm going to be starting with a new block as a result of this stuff.

My recommendation would be to go ahead and run the copper gasket if you're happy with your quench etc. Both of the machinist's I worked with said they've never had a problem with the gasket leaking, both seem to think it's an installation issue.

I have a pair of Flatout RCC Gaskets that have never been run, just installed for the torque plate hone process. I'll let you have them for cheap, 121 is what they cost me. Supposed to be the thing if you're going to run copper. They are .040 compressed with a 4.040 bore.

 

Copper and "seepage" is a problem. Personally, I never saw one that didn't seep with an aluminum head. I have seen 'em work on iron heads though. The best chance you have for intalling them without leakage is to do the following.

1. Head and block deck need to be as flat and true as possible.
2. Use the best gasket you can get - they nmust be dead soft if they are to have a hope of not seeping.
3. Use a rubber coated copper gasket like the Flatout Racing gasket or maybe the Titan gasket that has pre-installed seals. Or use a gasket sealant like Hylomar (Permatex product).
4. Use head studs.
5. Retorque after the first heat cycle.

It will probably seep anyway!

Rich