I've always heard that you just thread the stud in finger tight. After chasing threads. Then torque nuts to manufactures specs. depending on which lobe your using. (moly or oil) But,
Corky Bell says:

Any engine intended for serious power should have head studs, not bolts.(above 5-7psi street engine) A properly anchored stud, with its shank bottomed out in the block, will always prove a superior fastener system to a bolt tightened into the block. This is because the stud's chamfer preses on the deck surface and induces compressive stress into the material surrounding the threads in the block, essentially "preloading" the block. When the head retaining nut is tightened, the tension in the stud has to pull this compressive preload out of the threads before the threads become loaded in tension. Hence, the threads can take a greater tensile load.

Torque the studs into place with the torque value that will later be appliied to the nut. Two objectives must be achieved in torqueing the head studs: the tension in the studs must be near but below the yield strngth of the stud material, and all tensions must be close to equal. Lube should be applied to the threads of the stud that go into the block.

It is reasonable to install head studs of the next size up, usually 1/16 inch larger, and again the additiional clamp-up force available from higher torque values. However, studs over 1/8 inch larger may cause upper-cylinder distortion.

AAAARRRRGGGGGFFFFFF!

My little girl (20mo.) just pooped and then pulled her diaper off! Back in a second

Anyway, he shows 3 different diagrams of the different compression and tension loads.
What's up?

 

ARP, one of the better-known manufacturers of high quality fasteners disagree with what "Corky Bell" said. Here's the quote:

"HEAD STUDS vs. BOLTS... A TECHNICAL DISCUSSION
ARP®’s factory Tech Representatives are often asked which is better, cylinder head studs or bolts. The answer, invariably, depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it’s probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car.
For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment.

Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. ***A stud should be installed in a “relaxed” mode—never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.
If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. *** Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run. "


The newest ARP studs we've used have a small internal hex broached in the outer end which you use to screw in the stud. There's no way you could torque it to final spec with that small hex.

I don't buy the "preloading" of the block; it's just preloaded around the top thread in compression. The torqued stud is trying to pull out the rest of the threads; that's tension.

IMO, listen to ARP.