Just wondering, I've heard this a few times, but I don't know if it makes sense, I've done it aswell but this time I've changed cams & wondering whether I should do this again or not, basicly some people say primarly with Comp R' lifters that its best to adjust them while the car is idling, why wouldn't it be just as good to do it the normal method of adjusting the rocker while its on the base cirle of the cam? I mean you can see if the rocker is on the base circle, this time before adjusting the 8 rockers at the same time I even turned the engine 15* to the left of 12 o'clock & to the right 15* to make sure none of the pushrods would move, bring it back to 12 o'clock, & do the 8 rockers, then turn another 360* & do the rest.

But by turning the engine 15* left & right of 12 oclock & observing the pushrods not moving told me that I'm definetly on the basecirle of each.

So whats to make the adjusting method of when the car is idleing better then doing it when the car is off, each rocker when its on its basecircle?

Matt.

 

Using the method noted above, is good/recommended prior to inital startup. After the engine is appropriately warmed up to operating temp, the final adjustment can then be made while running. This will give a more accurate adjustment. More critical, the more extensive, the use of alloy components. Diff but sorta like the piston/bore clearance/sizing. The pistons are sized with the bores cold and obviously not running. However, the intent is to end up with the proper clearance at 'operating temp'. This is why some pistons are noisy upon initial startup.


Geez, when do some of these guys on this forum sleep?

 

Well, the best way to adjust a hydraulic cam has traditionally been by ear, while it's running.

Basically, you loosen up a rocker until it starts clattering real good, slowly tighten it again until the clattering stops, then give it an additional 1/4 turn.

 

k cool I'll do that, I've been running around without the engine running method & all seemed fine but I'll do it anyways, maybe it'll get a bit quiter

 

just did it with car running, much quiter & she still revs to the moon so they aren't overtightened I assume

 

Yes I have always had the best luck doing a final adjustment with the car running

 

I've never tried this with the engine running and never had any issues related to rocker adjustment. Doesn't oil get all over the place?

Rich Krause

 

>not if you take stips of cardboard and lay it inside the head most of the oil should get reflected back into the head .
this is how I always adjusted my rockers (I find it hader to do it the otherway)

 

Tip: Take a old or a valve cover you have laying around and cut the whole top off, so basically you have a wall on all sides but a hole on the top. Now you can adjust then while they are running and not have a mess all over.

 

Nothing a can of engine cleaner and a garden hose wont fix.

 

I prefer doing it with no valve cover, I have a valve cover with holes in it, but when you find zero lash, somtimes you take your hand off it & the nut spins back a bit, & no you don't get oil splashing, I only get a little sprinkle when the engine starts, but so long as its ideling the oil just accumulates on the sides but doesn't splash everywhere, I also have a hydra rev kit which acts as an oil barrier for splashes from the lifter valley if any wanted to spash up.

Matt.

 

oh the memories of waking up in the morning smelling 10w30 buring on 2" headerpipes and the sound of clickety click of the rockers.

 

Now you know...

You can shift the powerband slightly up or down by either tighteneing JUST until the clacking stops or by going 1/2 turn past that point. (instead of 1/4)

 

I find this to be the better method as well.


Well, do know...don't see how anyone can accomplish this. You confusing this with flexibilty of solids?