Getting rid of Opti w/ Accel DFI
#1
Getting rid of Opti w/ Accel DFI
My optispark I think has died and I am in need of ideas for replacing it. Now it is an Autozone unit which of course is under warranty. Now I can go through the trouble of replacing it for no charge or buy a "better" unit elsewhere. This isn't too much of a big deal except I have an ATI Procharger and I have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it, more then the norm. In all honesty the hardest part is putting the spark plug wires back on the damn optispark with the supercharger in the way. In any case, with all the mods I have I think it may be a good idea to go with another type of ignition system. What would anyone recommend? I have an Accel DFI Gen 7+ so I assume I can run a coil conversion using my existing crank trigger and put the system into sequential mode very easily. Would anyone have any info on doing this? Another option I was thinking was to drill the intake and use a distributor, but lowering the motor is almost as much hassle as pulling the opti so screw that. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/ssss.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/ssss.jpg
#4
You can't run sequential with only a crank sensor.... the ECU needs to know where the cam is. You could just run bank-to-bank with the DFI, or you could add a cam position sensor and use the eDIS setup mention above. There was a thread here at least a year ago showing a setup with a home made cam sensor, DFI and eDIS... I think it was done by NE Dyno. Later, someon else tried to use this setup and reportedly had problems.
No reason it shouldn't work, but selection and location of the cam position sensor becomes extremely difficult, since the signal can be produced in a variety of way, including "leading edge" and "trailing edge". Couple that with the fact that a single button on the cam sprocket means you only get one pulse per 2 crank revs, and the ECU really only knows the position of one cylinder, and "interpolates" the rest. That is the beauty of using the low res pulse from the Opti, it provides a defined pulse pattern for each of the 8 cylinders and allows the ECU to more accurately know the cam position.
No reason it shouldn't work, but selection and location of the cam position sensor becomes extremely difficult, since the signal can be produced in a variety of way, including "leading edge" and "trailing edge". Couple that with the fact that a single button on the cam sprocket means you only get one pulse per 2 crank revs, and the ECU really only knows the position of one cylinder, and "interpolates" the rest. That is the beauty of using the low res pulse from the Opti, it provides a defined pulse pattern for each of the 8 cylinders and allows the ECU to more accurately know the cam position.
#5
Why not replace it with the new Delteq system? Use your old Opti body, install Delteqs new optical sensor parts, remove the rotor as well. Then install Delteq/GM Northstar coil pack over your valve cover and install a set of custom wires on top of the engine.
This will get rid of the HV section in the opti, replacing the optical parts gets rid of what GM had installed. The new coil pak moves the wires to the top of the engine making wire installation a breeze for your blown application.
If you want to make it real bullet proof. You can purchase a billet Opti body from the people that make that $600 billet opti and install the Delteq sensors in it.
In my opinon the Delteq system is a cleaner install than the LTCC box that utilizes 8 coils. This system uses one single multi coil pak and comes with custom made brackets for your specific application making for a real clean installation.
And you keep everything as it is, sequential injection and all.
Check them out here:
http://delteq.com/opti_stage1.htm
This will get rid of the HV section in the opti, replacing the optical parts gets rid of what GM had installed. The new coil pak moves the wires to the top of the engine making wire installation a breeze for your blown application.
If you want to make it real bullet proof. You can purchase a billet Opti body from the people that make that $600 billet opti and install the Delteq sensors in it.
In my opinon the Delteq system is a cleaner install than the LTCC box that utilizes 8 coils. This system uses one single multi coil pak and comes with custom made brackets for your specific application making for a real clean installation.
And you keep everything as it is, sequential injection and all.
Check them out here:
http://delteq.com/opti_stage1.htm
#6
Here's the problem I am having...
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...51#post2030951
So this really won't help me until I find out the problem.
Thanks. Also I spoke with DelTeq yesterday and their optical sensor (stage 2) isn't out yet.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...51#post2030951
So this really won't help me until I find out the problem.
Thanks. Also I spoke with DelTeq yesterday and their optical sensor (stage 2) isn't out yet.
#7
Damn I have never seen an Opti do that before. The cam pin should be .620" measured from the face of the cam. Are you sure you have the opti indexed correctly. I have seen people force the opti on in the wrong spot, the car will actually run this way.
Also I got a couple Comp cams that were sent to me where the pins were .750 and .780 long. I tried to press them into the cam bearing journal to get the correct length but they wouldn't budge so I ended up cutting the pins to the correct length with a Dremel cutoff disc. So my advice to anyone using a Comp custom grind is to check the pin length.
Also I got a couple Comp cams that were sent to me where the pins were .750 and .780 long. I tried to press them into the cam bearing journal to get the correct length but they wouldn't budge so I ended up cutting the pins to the correct length with a Dremel cutoff disc. So my advice to anyone using a Comp custom grind is to check the pin length.
#8
#9
Why not dump the opti idea all together. Drill the Intake, put an accell dual-sync distributor in there and get the adapter harness.. Only thing that sucks is you either have to cut part of the cowl or drop the engine to get the distributor in there the 1st time..
--Sean
--Sean
#10
Im giving this LTCC one more shot. If it doesnt work im going to drill my intake and put a distributor in mine. I wish I would have done that from the beginning. You can cut away at the cowl and the dist fits just fine
#11
I have pics of the distributor in my ss on my website.
You don't have to drop the engine too much i kept the engine harness in place and the coolant hoses in place only thing i did was disconnect the front brake lines.
That way you just remove the six bolts on the k-member and lift the body up a bit, the dist slid right in. I didn't want to cut the cowl.
Rob
You don't have to drop the engine too much i kept the engine harness in place and the coolant hoses in place only thing i did was disconnect the front brake lines.
That way you just remove the six bolts on the k-member and lift the body up a bit, the dist slid right in. I didn't want to cut the cowl.
Rob