Ford mustang 8.8'' rear for a 4th gen rear swap?
10-20-2002, 12:45 PM
#1
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Ford mustang 8.8'' rear for a 4th gen rear swap?
I'm not realy sure if its advanced or not (and i wont take it personally if its not 
) but it is a driveline rebuild...
I posted in Lt1 tech and no one said anything usefull but "anchor"
I can get free Ford mustang 8.8'' rears from work. Is there any economical way to get it up into my car?
What am I looking at doing, what does it intail and has anyone done it yet?
thanks
trey
) but it is a driveline rebuild...I posted in Lt1 tech and no one said anything usefull but "anchor"
I can get free Ford mustang 8.8'' rears from work. Is there any economical way to get it up into my car?
What am I looking at doing, what does it intail and has anyone done it yet?
thanks
trey
10-20-2002, 10:01 PM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,662
I don't think this is so much an issue of "Advanced Tech" as it is of "common sense". Look at the two axle assemblies side-by-side. There are a few differences.... one is from a 4-link rear suspension, the other from a torque arm suspension. You face the same problems you would face by trying to put any "non-torque arm" rear axle assembly in a 3rd or 4th Gen Fbody... a few questions I can think of off the top of my head.....
-is the width correct?
-do the axle ends support the F-Body disc brake attachment?
-can you adapt the ABS or traction control sensors, if you want?
-how can you mount a torque arm?
-will the mounting brackets from the stock rear - LCA's, shock, panhard rod, spring seat - transfer directly to the new rear?
-how does the height of the pinion shaft center line compare with the stock 10-bolt?
-does the location/length of the pinion yoke require a modified driveshaft length, and cross-over u-joint?
-is the carrier a limited slip type?
-are the gears the ratio that you want?
-are the gears in good shape?
-do the bearings need to be replaced?
-does it use 4-stud or 5-tuds axles, and can you obtain axles with the required 5-stud x 4.75" pattern?
-will the stock wheels or typical aftermarket 3rd or 4th Gen wheels fit over the axle hubs, or do you have to get something machined?
-have you inspected the connection of the axle tubes to the center housing for cracks?
-what is the diameter of the axle tubes.... and will they require special brackets for the sway bar mount?
-does the rear axle assembly appreciably increase unsprung weight?
-will the center section fit comfortably in the space available, and will the TA mount you cobbel up clear the DS tunnel?
I am just guessing, but I suspect that by the time you design/converted/added all the parts you need to make it work, then rebuild the internals to "as new" you will have spent anywhere from 100-125% of the cost of a 12-bolt or a 9-inch from Moser or Strange.
Just guessing though.
-is the width correct?
-do the axle ends support the F-Body disc brake attachment?
-can you adapt the ABS or traction control sensors, if you want?
-how can you mount a torque arm?
-will the mounting brackets from the stock rear - LCA's, shock, panhard rod, spring seat - transfer directly to the new rear?
-how does the height of the pinion shaft center line compare with the stock 10-bolt?
-does the location/length of the pinion yoke require a modified driveshaft length, and cross-over u-joint?
-is the carrier a limited slip type?
-are the gears the ratio that you want?
-are the gears in good shape?
-do the bearings need to be replaced?
-does it use 4-stud or 5-tuds axles, and can you obtain axles with the required 5-stud x 4.75" pattern?
-will the stock wheels or typical aftermarket 3rd or 4th Gen wheels fit over the axle hubs, or do you have to get something machined?
-have you inspected the connection of the axle tubes to the center housing for cracks?
-what is the diameter of the axle tubes.... and will they require special brackets for the sway bar mount?
-does the rear axle assembly appreciably increase unsprung weight?
-will the center section fit comfortably in the space available, and will the TA mount you cobbel up clear the DS tunnel?
I am just guessing, but I suspect that by the time you design/converted/added all the parts you need to make it work, then rebuild the internals to "as new" you will have spent anywhere from 100-125% of the cost of a 12-bolt or a 9-inch from Moser or Strange.
Just guessing though.
10-20-2002, 10:35 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: California
Posts: 174
Originally posted by Injuneer
I don't think this is so much an issue of "Advanced Tech" as it is of "common sense".
I don't think this is so much an issue of "Advanced Tech" as it is of "common sense".
....but I have seen it done...In fact here is the link...http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/u...2;t=004512;p=1
Last edited by CobraKilla; 10-20-2002 at 10:49 PM.
10-21-2002, 09:09 AM
#7
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Dangerously close to Detroit
Posts: 647
Originally posted by CobraKilla
What exactly is "advanced tech"....but I have seen it done...In fact here is the link...
http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/u...2;t=004512;p=1
What exactly is "advanced tech"
....but I have seen it done...In fact here is the link...http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/u...2;t=004512;p=1
In a cheap-a$$ ghetto kinda way.
10-21-2002, 02:57 PM
#11
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 556
Originally posted by Gripenfelter
I would do it but I would like more pics on what he did for the torque arm mount etc.
I would do it but I would like more pics on what he did for the torque arm mount etc.
10-21-2002, 04:23 PM
#12
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 3,650
My local guy said he could build it as well. He just wants to know what he put in the centre section to accept 33 spline axles cuz he says he would be able to build something with 31 spline axles.
10-21-2002, 06:08 PM
#13
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kissimmee/Orlando, FL
Posts: 670
Has anyone thought of how you're going to keep the ABS? You drag guys may not care but its important to me (and other's im sure).
I was thinking you could do the same thing with a 8.5" 10bolt. Its still waaay stronger than the 7.5" plus there's a decent chance it would have a provision for an ABS sensor on the pumpkin if it was out of a late model car. You can also get a Torsen T2R roadracing posi for it which isnt available for a 12 bolt (not sure about the 8.8).
I was thinking you could do the same thing with a 8.5" 10bolt. Its still waaay stronger than the 7.5" plus there's a decent chance it would have a provision for an ABS sensor on the pumpkin if it was out of a late model car. You can also get a Torsen T2R roadracing posi for it which isnt available for a 12 bolt (not sure about the 8.8).
10-22-2002, 12:45 PM
#15
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: New Haven,MI
Posts: 249
I had it done for free(favor for a favor)but with a 10 bolt and a 12 bolt.Just got a junkyard 12 and cut and welded the brackets for the shocks and control arms and hand made a TA mount. Used ford 9" ends and fully welded the whole thing.No ABS but got to use the stock 10 bolt brakes and no c-clips.My only cost was all the new internals.Gears,spool,axels,etc.So it can be done for cheap. Heck he's getting the 8.8 for free. And he already has the 10 bolt in his car.
Just my .02
Just my .02