It's good for break in on any motor. Another choice is any decent non-synthetic with GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) additive. I am using Brad Penn 30W break-in oil.

Rich

 

I just use Chevron 30W with the additive that Rich mentioned for break-in, then change out to my oil of choice after that.

 

For those who don't know, Brad Penn still makes what used to be Kendall GT1. Current Kendall GT1 is completely different than it used to be.

 

i have always used non detergent 10 30 for break in,
the main thing is to change the oil often when the motor is fresh,
the oil will collect shavings from the rings seating and any other debris in the motor. so its best to keep it changed alot. i cange to oil ~ 4 times before 500 miles.
then i switch to synthetic blend.

 

I can't find kendall GT-1 locally........but I do want to run it after what I have read.

Can you only get it online or something?

 

The current Kendall GT-1 is nothing special. Just another oil. The original formulation is now known as Brad Penn Oil. I use the multigrade in my race car. The straight 50 weight is the "oil of choice" for a lot of the blown alcohol guys. They also make a straight 70 grade for nitro cars. The multigrades are partial synthetic 10W-30 and 20W-50. They go for between $4-$5/quart. If no one local to you has it, my buddy sells it and can ship. PM me for info.

Rich

 

Rotella T has the best additives for a break in oil and for regular oil changes short of buying a specialty oil. You don't need to use 15W40. The 10w30 grade will work just as well.

 

Iv ran Kendall 10W-30 in mine since the first cam install. Ive always got it AutoZone, If your local dont have it they Can get it. However i didnt know that it had changed over the years.

 

mdacton, are you running a flat tappet cam? If not, there are other oils which are as good or even better for your engine.

Rich, it's interesting that you should mention that Brad Penn is semi-synthetic. I didn't realize that, but upon inspection of the MSDS, it looks like they use 5-10% PAO (group IV). Cool.

Stephen, Rotella T is still good, but not quite as good as it used to be. The API's now-obsolete CI-4 spec allowed up to 0.15% phosphorus, but the current CJ-4 spec only allows up to 0.12% phosphorus. It's still enough for flat tappet cams, but one doesn't have to be Nostradamus to predict the trend of lowering ZDDP will continue.

 

NO, roller. What oils are better?

 

At least wrt the valvetrain, race profile solid flat tappets are by far the most demanding in terms of lubrication. The high spring pressures needed are working through a very small contact area at the lifter face/cam lobe interface. As the zinc has been taken out of even "race" oils, there started to be failures in those solid flat tappet setups. That's how the change in oil formulation became known to the average racer. For those setups, it is really imperative to use one of the oils or additives I suggested in an eariler post. Brad Penn, Rotella-T, GM EOS additive, etc.

There would be other resons to pick an oil with a HR or street SR, which have much lower loads at the roller/cam interface. Many different oils will give good service there. Opinions vary, but I am personally not a strong believer in synthetics for MY performance or race motors. They get rebuilt long before they wear out, so the small performance gain due to lower friction does not justify the cost, to me. I put close to 25,000 miles per year on my DD and I also use dino oil there. Typically, I buy them new and use them for 125-150,000 miles. I change oil every 5-7,500 miles and have never seen any abnormal wear. The last Silverado I had was an '01 and it had exactly the same oil pressure as new when I sold it at 120,000 miles.

If you are running very high spring pressures on a solid roller, then I would also go for a high zinc oil. This is not based on any data, just logic starting with the flat tappet problems. But there is far too much hype around oil to have a rational discussion on it. You can get people all in a huff saying synthetic isn't worth it. Before you put any creedence in their opinion, ask them how many motors they have torn down, whether they have EVER seen a failure related to the oil brand used, etc. It's really much ado about almost nothing wrt street cars. You could probably use ANY oil meeting the current API specification, even the cheapest stuff you could buy, and not notice any difference if you had a reasonable change interval. I have no problem spending 30, 40, or $50,000 on a car but I refuse to put $8/qt oil in it for no reason. If I ever bought a very expensive street car or a vintage race car and planned to keep it in original condition for many years I would consider synthetic. I suppose rebuilding a Ferrari V-12 is something I would want to put off as long as possible. But since that isn't in my future, I doubt I will ever be doing it.

Rich

 

I haven't really researched oils for rollers much, so I don't feel qualified to make a recommendation to you. Instead, I suggest you go to www.BobIsTheOilGuy.com and ask them what they recommend.
Here are some of the things they may want to know:
What engine and cam/lifter setup? This includes spring pressures.
What usage (daily driver, street/strip, road course, circle track, drag race, enduro, etc.) and RPM range?
Where do you live and do you have an oil cooler?
What fuel do you use?
Do you have a windage tray? Crank scraper? Oil restrictors?
How often, or not often, do you want to change your oil?
How much are you willing to spend? (Are you looking for every last 0.5HP?)

Here are some of the things they'll be thinking about:
Flat tappets need alot of zinc, and rollers with high spring pressures are also very demanding on the anti-wear and extreme pressure components of the additive package.
Daily drivers need more detergents and dispersants than race oils because they need to keep your engine clean longer and hold some of the contaminants in solution or suspension. Also, you don't want alot of detergents and dispersants in racing apps because if they get into the combustion chamber and burn they can become detonation-causing hotspots.
Where you live and whether or not you have an oil cooler partially determines the grade of oil you need (10W30, 15W40, 20W50, etc.).
If you run alcohol or nitro, you generally need a thicker oil to combat dilution by fuel.
Better oil control in the crankcase means less oiling for the cam & lifters as well as the cylinder walls, ring pack, and piston pins. Oil restrictors further limit valvetrain oiling.

I guess that's all I can think of right now.

 

The EOS has been reissued under a new part number but noone has it 88862586

 

i use the rotella for break in with the gm additive. on all my flat tappet motors recieve additive fro 3,000 miles. i have changed the oil at 30minutes,500 miles, then 3,000 miles. after that i use amsoil in everything. the newer oils have different components that will not support flat tappets. they will fail!!! the older oils were clogging up catalytic converters and almost all newer motors have roller cams or ohcs. check out performanceoiltechnology.com