Engine block question
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by strokedTA:
COOL, Rich, Now I have an EXOTIC Race set-up!
LOL
Really simple actually.
Dave Brown
</font>
COOL, Rich, Now I have an EXOTIC Race set-up!
LOLReally simple actually.

Dave Brown
</font>
Rich Krause
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'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"
Guest
Posts: n/a
So what I'm hearing in this thread, it's worthless for me to convert to a studed narrow register straight 4 bolt main with billet caps over a studed two bolt? And the only 4 bolt conversion that's worth the trouble is splayed?
I was going to go to the straight 4 bolt main conversion since it is considerably cheaper than the splayed 4 bolt because they won't have to remachine the registers. I guess I need to think about this some more before I take the block to the machinist.
I was going to go to the straight 4 bolt main conversion since it is considerably cheaper than the splayed 4 bolt because they won't have to remachine the registers. I guess I need to think about this some more before I take the block to the machinist.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Curt (pres AAMC & ZAA):
So what I'm hearing in this thread, it's worthless for me to convert to a studed narrow register straight 4 bolt main with billet caps over a studed two bolt? And the only 4 bolt conversion that's worth the trouble is splayed?
I was going to go to the straight 4 bolt main conversion since it is considerably cheaper than the splayed 4 bolt because they won't have to remachine the registers. I guess I need to think about this some more before I take the block to the machinist.</font>
So what I'm hearing in this thread, it's worthless for me to convert to a studed narrow register straight 4 bolt main with billet caps over a studed two bolt? And the only 4 bolt conversion that's worth the trouble is splayed?
I was going to go to the straight 4 bolt main conversion since it is considerably cheaper than the splayed 4 bolt because they won't have to remachine the registers. I guess I need to think about this some more before I take the block to the machinist.</font>
Rich Krause
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'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Eric Bryant:
All depends - can you hit the same clamping force that was used when the block was originally line-bored? If so, nothing really changes and you don't need to hone the block.
On the other hand, if the cap clamping force changes due to the change from bolts to studs, then it's not a bad idea to clean things up with a quick hone of the mains.
</font>
All depends - can you hit the same clamping force that was used when the block was originally line-bored? If so, nothing really changes and you don't need to hone the block.
On the other hand, if the cap clamping force changes due to the change from bolts to studs, then it's not a bad idea to clean things up with a quick hone of the mains.
</font>
So I guess its a "try it and see" sort of thing. I guess you would just measure the diameter of the hole to see if its still round after converting to studs?
Thanks,
Jason
Registered User
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 99
From: Where people don't discriminate about your induction system.
Rich, What would you like to know?
I thought most people here knew what I had?
The Logic????
Well, for one, I saved over $5000.00 going with a carb.
Where do you think that extra money went?
If I was boosted or drove it more on the street, EFI would "maybe" be a better option, but with spray it's not a major benefit.
Dave Brown
------------------
If a little's good,
More is better,
And too much is just right!!!
I thought most people here knew what I had?
The Logic????
Well, for one, I saved over $5000.00 going with a carb.
Where do you think that extra money went?

If I was boosted or drove it more on the street, EFI would "maybe" be a better option, but with spray it's not a major benefit.
Dave Brown
------------------
If a little's good,
More is better,
And too much is just right!!!
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by strokedTA:
Rich, What would you like to know?
I thought most people here knew what I had?
The Logic????
Well, for one, I saved over $5000.00 going with a carb.
Where do you think that extra money went?
If I was boosted or drove it more on the street, EFI would "maybe" be a better option, but with spray it's not a major benefit.
Dave Brown
</font>
Rich, What would you like to know?
I thought most people here knew what I had?
The Logic????
Well, for one, I saved over $5000.00 going with a carb.
Where do you think that extra money went?

If I was boosted or drove it more on the street, EFI would "maybe" be a better option, but with spray it's not a major benefit.
Dave Brown
</font>
Rich Krause
------------------
'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by strokedTA:
Well, for one, I saved over $5000.00 going with a carb.
Where do you think that extra money went?
</font>
Well, for one, I saved over $5000.00 going with a carb.
Where do you think that extra money went?

</font>
you saved $5,000 by going to a carb!?!? how so?jeremy
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'93 z28 m6 (Purple Pearl Metallic)
stock shortblock, 230/236 cam, mildly ported heads, hooker longtubes, csi waterpump, all the usual bolton stuff.....
7.98 @ 88.7mph 1.84 60' (1/8mi)
Take my Scenario:
$350 LT4 Intake
$300 Porting
$2000 FAST
$500 Injectors
$500 Throttle Body
$100 Fuel Pump
$500 Laptop
$100 Regulator
$275 Opti
-----
$4625 Total
or
$350 Single Plane Intake
$300 Porting
$200 Machining for LT1 Bolt Pattern (Just a guess)
$1000 Carb
$300 Fuel Pump (Not counting new braided lines etc, since OEM can't be used)
$100 Regulator
$200 Distributor
-----
$2650 Total
Note that not everyone might need that $2000 FAST system.
I'm sure I'm missing some things, but when it comes down to it, if you have a perfectly good LT1 setup, its hardly worth going to a carb. Consider you wouldn't need to buy the intake, Opti, and a few other items.
No doubt Dave's personal scenario is slightly different, being a Gen1 SBCbut I think he's pretty well overexagerating there at $5k.
------------------
Kurtis Tamez
LT4-396.com
97 Z28 LT4-396
94 Firehawk LT1-396
Team NW F-Body
$350 LT4 Intake
$300 Porting
$2000 FAST
$500 Injectors
$500 Throttle Body
$100 Fuel Pump
$500 Laptop
$100 Regulator
$275 Opti
-----
$4625 Total
or
$350 Single Plane Intake
$300 Porting
$200 Machining for LT1 Bolt Pattern (Just a guess)
$1000 Carb
$300 Fuel Pump (Not counting new braided lines etc, since OEM can't be used)
$100 Regulator
$200 Distributor
-----
$2650 Total
Note that not everyone might need that $2000 FAST system.
I'm sure I'm missing some things, but when it comes down to it, if you have a perfectly good LT1 setup, its hardly worth going to a carb. Consider you wouldn't need to buy the intake, Opti, and a few other items.
No doubt Dave's personal scenario is slightly different, being a Gen1 SBCbut I think he's pretty well overexagerating there at $5k.
------------------
Kurtis Tamez
LT4-396.com
97 Z28 LT4-396
94 Firehawk LT1-396
Team NW F-Body
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Matt Mc:
Hey Rich
You said that you were making over 700 RWHP on iron caps. So is your set up a factor 2 bolt or 4 bolt bottom end?
Thanks
Matt mc</font>
Hey Rich
You said that you were making over 700 RWHP on iron caps. So is your set up a factor 2 bolt or 4 bolt bottom end?
Thanks
Matt mc</font>
Rich Krause
------------------
'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"
Originally posted by rskrause
Factory 2-bolt converted to 4-bolt using GM straight nodular iron caps pn 3932482. It's what my engine builder reccomended so I went with them.
Factory 2-bolt converted to 4-bolt using GM straight nodular iron caps pn 3932482. It's what my engine builder reccomended so I went with them.
strokedTA,
I have a carbed going into my 95 camaro in about two weeks. We are just going to tackle all the problems (cowl clearance, accessories, etc.....) as we get there but if you have done it any suggesstions or pics would be great.
Faccnator
I have a carbed going into my 95 camaro in about two weeks. We are just going to tackle all the problems (cowl clearance, accessories, etc.....) as we get there but if you have done it any suggesstions or pics would be great.
Faccnator
Originally posted by Jim S. '95 Z28
Was this more of a budget issue or a means of averting "stretch" with billet caps?
Was this more of a budget issue or a means of averting "stretch" with billet caps?
Rich Krause
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