I am in need of some problem solving here. I just bought a new door for my camaro and everything was going smoothly till I tried to operate the driver side window. I have control of the passenger side window the mirrors and locks but no driver side. I figured it may be the motor but when I hooked my other door back up through the circuits I still have no operation of the driver side window. I can hear at least on my old door a buzz when I turn the key to full accessory mode, but still cannot operate it. I am leaning towards the actuall switch itself being blown somehow but then again thats why I here. Any help on the situation would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

 

When you uninstalled your original door, how did you disconnect the wiring harness for all the door controls? Did you disconnect the switches in the doors and pull the wiring harness out of the hole in the front part of the door inside the jamb? Did you leave the original wiring harness with the original door and disconnect it from the relay box inside the vehicle? Did you cut the old harness and splice it together with the new harness? Did the new door come equipped with it's own switches and wiring harness? Need more info before I can help...

 

Also forgot to ask: did you get to test and see first hand if the new door you bought was operational before you bought it? Where and how did you purchase it?

 

Bought it from rolltide, very nice person.....used existing harness just pulled out of door with gromet and then rerouted it back up new door. I hooked it all up and viola door assembled or so I thought.

The old door doesnt work either now, also my passenger side just stopped working about 2 hours ago but luckily that is up.

Is it possible to burn out the switches or are they just there to open and close a circuit??

I dont care if I can get them working as much as wanting the damn window up, it has been raining quite hard lately. I can fix the wiring issue at a later time if need be but does anyone know how to get the window up without using the switch?

 

Okay, so on your old door, you said you could hear a buzzing sound whenever you tried to roll the window up, so that meant you were at least getting current to the window motor, which means your switch isn't bad. The fact that you're using the same wiring harness and switch on the new motor made me think that the window motor on the new door isn't working, but now that you mention that your OTHER window isn't working throws another ball into the juggling act. There is only one fuse that controls both power windows: so the fact that both windows are now not working suggests that the source of the problem may not be in the door itself. Try checking the fuse. (It's a 3 amp version under the panel on the driver's side of the dash that touches the door when it's closed. If the fuse is still good, the next thing I would check is the relay in the little black box towards the front of the engine compartment on the driver's side.

Why did you swap doors? Was it because your old door had been hit? Or simply because the window quit working? You also never answered whether the window in the new door was working before you swapped it?

 

my other door was white on a black car, so I just bought a black one and am going to sell the white one. The fuse was blown yes, and somehow the wiper fuse blew too. replaced and still nothing(passenger window now works and so does wipers but the driver side is still not funtioning).


yes the door before worked perfectly fine

 

Okay, so the signal path through your fuse box is clean. Since it blew when you operated the passenger's side door, that means you have a short somewhere. Also, there is only one fuse and relay that control both doors, so if one door is getting power then the other one is too. I'm gonna guess that the short is in the wiring harness in your driver's door. Seeing how you went about removing the original door by pulling the wiring harness out of it, it's possible that during that procedure a wire could have gotten snagged on some sheetmetal and frayed off some coating. If one of the wires is bare and it's touching metal somewhere inside the door, it will ground itself out. It's also possible that while you were taking the original door off, you may have pulled on the wiring harness a little too hard and pulled one of the wires loose from the plug on the inside of the dash. (Or heck it could have even been pulled loose from the plug that hooks to the window switch.) Either way, I'd go over the wiring inside the door with a fine tooth comb. Make sure there are no bare spots, no wires cut, and that all the wires are still connected to the plugs on either end. (Crossing fingers.)

 

"window" problems don't belong on "Advanced Tech". I've already removed the same topic from LT1/LT4 Engine Tech, where it also didn't belong. That thread was moved to "General F-body Tech.....". That's where topics like this belong.

Please post topics in the correct forum. Please post them only once.

Thanks in advance for your full cooperation.