Detailed Cam and Head Info Needed. Please help.
03-11-2004, 12:06 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 69
Detailed Cam and Head Info Needed. Please help.
Please bear with me. This is a long, detailed post, during which I'll ask for specific information, experiences, etc. I hope it's technical enough to warrant a response here.
First, an overview of the project. The car is a 69 Nova, ~3200lbs., and will be used 85% on the drag strip, 15% on the street. It will probably be used 5-6 racing weekends per year, and <50 miles per summer on the street, in 5 mile or so increments. It won't be forced to idle in traffic, nor will it see ANY highway use. The rear has 4.88 gears, and the trans is a 4 speed. The car will be shifted at 6500-6600, and will not see more than ~6800 RPM.
The motor is a 350 SB, 0.030" over. We'll be using a Weiand street tunnel ram with dual 450 mechanical secondary Holley's, and we're hoping to run a pump gas, or pump/race gas mix. The piston's are forged with a 0.100", 2.4cc dome. We're in the process of buying heads and a cam, and are looking for advice. Now, onto the questions.
First, an overview of the project. The car is a 69 Nova, ~3200lbs., and will be used 85% on the drag strip, 15% on the street. It will probably be used 5-6 racing weekends per year, and <50 miles per summer on the street, in 5 mile or so increments. It won't be forced to idle in traffic, nor will it see ANY highway use. The rear has 4.88 gears, and the trans is a 4 speed. The car will be shifted at 6500-6600, and will not see more than ~6800 RPM.
The motor is a 350 SB, 0.030" over. We'll be using a Weiand street tunnel ram with dual 450 mechanical secondary Holley's, and we're hoping to run a pump gas, or pump/race gas mix. The piston's are forged with a 0.100", 2.4cc dome. We're in the process of buying heads and a cam, and are looking for advice. Now, onto the questions.
03-11-2004, 12:09 AM
#2
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 69
1. Head Choice
After much searching and reasearch, I've narrowed the head choices down to the Edelbrock Victor Jr. or the Dart Pro 1. The chambers will be 64cc, and I'm not willing to change on that, therefore ruling out the Brodix Track 1's. I'd prefer not to use the Trick Flow heads, as the flow numbers are not that impressive. I’ve also ruled out AFR’s due to cost and the fact that every option is an added cost, even though the flow numbers are pretty good. I had looked at the Pro Topline aluminum castings, but after talking to Summit, they said that they’re on backorder and they don’t know when they’ll be getting them in. I liked the flow numbers on the Pro Toplines, but have read that they’re known for spoofing their numbers. One attractive feature of the Pro Toplines, at least at first, was the pricing, but after adding all the numbers, they are in between the Pro 1’s and Victor Jr.’s in terms of price. One reason I liked the Victor Jr’s and Pro 1’s was that they had a smaller intaker runner (215cc vs. 220cc) to try to keep port velocity up, even though it’s only a small difference. I know this is a lot of head for the displacement and RPM, but whatever heads I choose could go on a different (bigger, more RPM) motor in the future, and I only want to buy heads once. It seems that out of the box, I will just be beginning to tap the potential of either Dart or Edelbrock heads. I was kind of leaning towards the Victor’s because they outflow the Pro 1’s by a substantial margin at 0.500”+ lifts. Also, the Victor’s exhaust ports are 85cc vs. the Pro 1’s 75cc. Lastly, the Victor Jr’s have a 82% E/I ratio vs. the Pro 1’s 72%. So here’s the first question: What head, Pro 1 or Victor Jr., is better suited to the intended application?
After much searching and reasearch, I've narrowed the head choices down to the Edelbrock Victor Jr. or the Dart Pro 1. The chambers will be 64cc, and I'm not willing to change on that, therefore ruling out the Brodix Track 1's. I'd prefer not to use the Trick Flow heads, as the flow numbers are not that impressive. I’ve also ruled out AFR’s due to cost and the fact that every option is an added cost, even though the flow numbers are pretty good. I had looked at the Pro Topline aluminum castings, but after talking to Summit, they said that they’re on backorder and they don’t know when they’ll be getting them in. I liked the flow numbers on the Pro Toplines, but have read that they’re known for spoofing their numbers. One attractive feature of the Pro Toplines, at least at first, was the pricing, but after adding all the numbers, they are in between the Pro 1’s and Victor Jr.’s in terms of price. One reason I liked the Victor Jr’s and Pro 1’s was that they had a smaller intaker runner (215cc vs. 220cc) to try to keep port velocity up, even though it’s only a small difference. I know this is a lot of head for the displacement and RPM, but whatever heads I choose could go on a different (bigger, more RPM) motor in the future, and I only want to buy heads once. It seems that out of the box, I will just be beginning to tap the potential of either Dart or Edelbrock heads. I was kind of leaning towards the Victor’s because they outflow the Pro 1’s by a substantial margin at 0.500”+ lifts. Also, the Victor’s exhaust ports are 85cc vs. the Pro 1’s 75cc. Lastly, the Victor Jr’s have a 82% E/I ratio vs. the Pro 1’s 72%. So here’s the first question: What head, Pro 1 or Victor Jr., is better suited to the intended application?
03-11-2004, 12:10 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 69
2. Head Gasket Choice
The block is a standard 1974 4-bolt with a 9.025” deck height. The block has never been decked. With the 64cc chambers, and Speed Pro L2304 pistons, the compression would be 10.63:1 with a standard 0.041” compressed thickness head gasket. With a head gasket compressed thickness of ~0.030”, the compression would jump to ~10.9:1. I won’t be using copper head gaskets, especially since the car will be driven, although minimally, on the street, and the motor is not torn down that often (hopefully). Is there one brand that stands above the rest? I’ve heard Cometic makes a good piece. Also, is a thinner gasket more prone to blowout than a standard thickness one? I don’t know that using a thin head gasket will be an option due to Valve/Piston clearance. I’d be willing to give up some compression to gain some Valve/Piston clearance.
The block is a standard 1974 4-bolt with a 9.025” deck height. The block has never been decked. With the 64cc chambers, and Speed Pro L2304 pistons, the compression would be 10.63:1 with a standard 0.041” compressed thickness head gasket. With a head gasket compressed thickness of ~0.030”, the compression would jump to ~10.9:1. I won’t be using copper head gaskets, especially since the car will be driven, although minimally, on the street, and the motor is not torn down that often (hopefully). Is there one brand that stands above the rest? I’ve heard Cometic makes a good piece. Also, is a thinner gasket more prone to blowout than a standard thickness one? I don’t know that using a thin head gasket will be an option due to Valve/Piston clearance. I’d be willing to give up some compression to gain some Valve/Piston clearance.
03-11-2004, 12:12 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 69
3. Cam Choice
I was originally debating on whether to use a solid flat tappet cam or a solid roller cam. After talking with Lunati, Comp Cams, Crane, and Isky, I’ve decided that as long as I’m upgrading, I might as well not compromise the power and the potential of the heads with a solid flat tappet cam. Additionally, they suggested a solid cam in the range of 0.570”-0.580” lift. I realized that this is pushing the limits of solid cam design in terms of ramp angles and duration. The motor will basically operate in a range of 3000-7000 RPM on the drag strip, and to use a solid cam that would give me enough lift, I would have to also have too much duration to the point that it would raise the RPM range to an unusable level. So I’ve decided to go with a solid roller (SR) to obtain more lift and lower the duration and hence the RPM range to a useable level. These are the specs recommended to me by Comp, Crane, and Lunati:
Lift Duration @0.050” RPM Range
Lunati 626/626 255/263 3500-7500
Comp 645/630 260/264 3000-7000
Crane 580/600 242/250 3600-7000
I was originally debating on whether to use a solid flat tappet cam or a solid roller cam. After talking with Lunati, Comp Cams, Crane, and Isky, I’ve decided that as long as I’m upgrading, I might as well not compromise the power and the potential of the heads with a solid flat tappet cam. Additionally, they suggested a solid cam in the range of 0.570”-0.580” lift. I realized that this is pushing the limits of solid cam design in terms of ramp angles and duration. The motor will basically operate in a range of 3000-7000 RPM on the drag strip, and to use a solid cam that would give me enough lift, I would have to also have too much duration to the point that it would raise the RPM range to an unusable level. So I’ve decided to go with a solid roller (SR) to obtain more lift and lower the duration and hence the RPM range to a useable level. These are the specs recommended to me by Comp, Crane, and Lunati:
Lift Duration @0.050” RPM Range
Lunati 626/626 255/263 3500-7500
Comp 645/630 260/264 3000-7000
Crane 580/600 242/250 3600-7000
03-11-2004, 12:15 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 69
All cams are ground on 106 degree lobe centers to help build cylinder pressure as a result of the low (relatively) compression. I liked the Comp Cam best because it provides the most lift and the lowest RPM range. I’ve used Comp Cams in the past and am pleased with them and their customer service so far. Whatever cam goes into the motor, it MUST remain streetable, as stated previously. I would like some opinions on which cam to go with, and if not one of the aforementioned cams, could anyone suggest an alternative.
4. Other Cam Questions
Does anyone have real world experience with the expected service life of cams of this range? Looking for an estimate of vacuum produced at idle. Are both a roller button and a wear plate both needed in this application? I would like to use a solid wear plate instead of the Torrington bearing model for fear of the bearing failing and the pieces falling into the motor.
5. Spring Recommendation
Springs Recommended by each manufacture are as follows:
Seat Press@1.900 Open Press@1.250 Coil Bind
Comp 943 240lbs 598lbs. 1.150
Comp 954 223lbs 537lbs 1.170
Lunati ~180-190lbs. ~500lbs.
Crane 198lbs. 511lbs.
The springs supplied by Edelbrock on their Vic Jr’s are made by Pioneer and are as follows 210lbs. seat pressure, 513lbs open pressure at the heights shown above and 1.170in. coil bind.
The Comp 943 seems like a lot of pressure for a streetable setup, not to mention the fact that they’re about twice as much as the 954’s. My big concern now is if the springs supplied by Edelbrock will be enough to coincide with any of the SR cams listed above.
4. Other Cam Questions
Does anyone have real world experience with the expected service life of cams of this range? Looking for an estimate of vacuum produced at idle. Are both a roller button and a wear plate both needed in this application? I would like to use a solid wear plate instead of the Torrington bearing model for fear of the bearing failing and the pieces falling into the motor.
5. Spring Recommendation
Springs Recommended by each manufacture are as follows:
Seat Press@1.900 Open Press@1.250 Coil Bind
Comp 943 240lbs 598lbs. 1.150
Comp 954 223lbs 537lbs 1.170
Lunati ~180-190lbs. ~500lbs.
Crane 198lbs. 511lbs.
The springs supplied by Edelbrock on their Vic Jr’s are made by Pioneer and are as follows 210lbs. seat pressure, 513lbs open pressure at the heights shown above and 1.170in. coil bind.
The Comp 943 seems like a lot of pressure for a streetable setup, not to mention the fact that they’re about twice as much as the 954’s. My big concern now is if the springs supplied by Edelbrock will be enough to coincide with any of the SR cams listed above.
03-11-2004, 12:18 AM
#6
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Originally posted by usa1racing
1. Head Choice
After much searching and reasearch, I've narrowed the head choices down to the Edelbrock Victor Jr. or the Dart Pro 1. The chambers will be 64cc, and I'm not willing to change on that, therefore ruling out the Brodix Track 1's. I'd prefer not to use the Trick Flow heads, as the flow numbers are not that impressive. I’ve also ruled out AFR’s due to cost and the fact that every option is an added cost, even though the flow numbers are pretty good. I had looked at the Pro Topline aluminum castings, but after talking to Summit, they said that they’re on backorder and they don’t know when they’ll be getting them in. I liked the flow numbers on the Pro Toplines, but have read that they’re known for spoofing their numbers. One attractive feature of the Pro Toplines, at least at first, was the pricing, but after adding all the numbers, they are in between the Pro 1’s and Victor Jr.’s in terms of price. One reason I liked the Victor Jr’s and Pro 1’s was that they had a smaller intaker runner (215cc vs. 220cc) to try to keep port velocity up, even though it’s only a small difference. I know this is a lot of head for the displacement and RPM, but whatever heads I choose could go on a different (bigger, more RPM) motor in the future, and I only want to buy heads once. It seems that out of the box, I will just be beginning to tap the potential of either Dart or Edelbrock heads. I was kind of leaning towards the Victor’s because they outflow the Pro 1’s by a substantial margin at 0.500”+ lifts. Also, the Victor’s exhaust ports are 85cc vs. the Pro 1’s 75cc. Lastly, the Victor Jr’s have a 82% E/I ratio vs. the Pro 1’s 72%. So here’s the first question: What head, Pro 1 or Victor Jr., is better suited to the intended application?
1. Head Choice
After much searching and reasearch, I've narrowed the head choices down to the Edelbrock Victor Jr. or the Dart Pro 1. The chambers will be 64cc, and I'm not willing to change on that, therefore ruling out the Brodix Track 1's. I'd prefer not to use the Trick Flow heads, as the flow numbers are not that impressive. I’ve also ruled out AFR’s due to cost and the fact that every option is an added cost, even though the flow numbers are pretty good. I had looked at the Pro Topline aluminum castings, but after talking to Summit, they said that they’re on backorder and they don’t know when they’ll be getting them in. I liked the flow numbers on the Pro Toplines, but have read that they’re known for spoofing their numbers. One attractive feature of the Pro Toplines, at least at first, was the pricing, but after adding all the numbers, they are in between the Pro 1’s and Victor Jr.’s in terms of price. One reason I liked the Victor Jr’s and Pro 1’s was that they had a smaller intaker runner (215cc vs. 220cc) to try to keep port velocity up, even though it’s only a small difference. I know this is a lot of head for the displacement and RPM, but whatever heads I choose could go on a different (bigger, more RPM) motor in the future, and I only want to buy heads once. It seems that out of the box, I will just be beginning to tap the potential of either Dart or Edelbrock heads. I was kind of leaning towards the Victor’s because they outflow the Pro 1’s by a substantial margin at 0.500”+ lifts. Also, the Victor’s exhaust ports are 85cc vs. the Pro 1’s 75cc. Lastly, the Victor Jr’s have a 82% E/I ratio vs. the Pro 1’s 72%. So here’s the first question: What head, Pro 1 or Victor Jr., is better suited to the intended application?
Bret
03-11-2004, 12:19 AM
#7
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Originally posted by usa1racing
2. Head Gasket Choice
The block is a standard 1974 4-bolt with a 9.025” deck height. The block has never been decked. With the 64cc chambers, and Speed Pro L2304 pistons, the compression would be 10.63:1 with a standard 0.041” compressed thickness head gasket. With a head gasket compressed thickness of ~0.030”, the compression would jump to ~10.9:1. I won’t be using copper head gaskets, especially since the car will be driven, although minimally, on the street, and the motor is not torn down that often (hopefully). Is there one brand that stands above the rest? I’ve heard Cometic makes a good piece. Also, is a thinner gasket more prone to blowout than a standard thickness one? I don’t know that using a thin head gasket will be an option due to Valve/Piston clearance. I’d be willing to give up some compression to gain some Valve/Piston clearance.
2. Head Gasket Choice
The block is a standard 1974 4-bolt with a 9.025” deck height. The block has never been decked. With the 64cc chambers, and Speed Pro L2304 pistons, the compression would be 10.63:1 with a standard 0.041” compressed thickness head gasket. With a head gasket compressed thickness of ~0.030”, the compression would jump to ~10.9:1. I won’t be using copper head gaskets, especially since the car will be driven, although minimally, on the street, and the motor is not torn down that often (hopefully). Is there one brand that stands above the rest? I’ve heard Cometic makes a good piece. Also, is a thinner gasket more prone to blowout than a standard thickness one? I don’t know that using a thin head gasket will be an option due to Valve/Piston clearance. I’d be willing to give up some compression to gain some Valve/Piston clearance.
I would definately reccomend the Cometc gaskets.
Bret
03-11-2004, 12:23 AM
#8
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Originally posted by usa1racing
3. Cam Choice
I was originally debating on whether to use a solid flat tappet cam or a solid roller cam. After talking with Lunati, Comp Cams, Crane, and Isky, I’ve decided that as long as I’m upgrading, I might as well not compromise the power and the potential of the heads with a solid flat tappet cam. Additionally, they suggested a solid cam in the range of 0.570”-0.580” lift. I realized that this is pushing the limits of solid cam design in terms of ramp angles and duration. The motor will basically operate in a range of 3000-7000 RPM on the drag strip, and to use a solid cam that would give me enough lift, I would have to also have too much duration to the point that it would raise the RPM range to an unusable level. So I’ve decided to go with a solid roller (SR) to obtain more lift and lower the duration and hence the RPM range to a useable level. These are the specs recommended to me by Comp, Crane, and Lunati:
Lift Duration @0.050” RPM Range
Lunati 626/626 255/263 3500-7500
Comp 645/630 260/264 3000-7000
Crane 580/600 242/250 3600-7000
3. Cam Choice
I was originally debating on whether to use a solid flat tappet cam or a solid roller cam. After talking with Lunati, Comp Cams, Crane, and Isky, I’ve decided that as long as I’m upgrading, I might as well not compromise the power and the potential of the heads with a solid flat tappet cam. Additionally, they suggested a solid cam in the range of 0.570”-0.580” lift. I realized that this is pushing the limits of solid cam design in terms of ramp angles and duration. The motor will basically operate in a range of 3000-7000 RPM on the drag strip, and to use a solid cam that would give me enough lift, I would have to also have too much duration to the point that it would raise the RPM range to an unusable level. So I’ve decided to go with a solid roller (SR) to obtain more lift and lower the duration and hence the RPM range to a useable level. These are the specs recommended to me by Comp, Crane, and Lunati:
Lift Duration @0.050” RPM Range
Lunati 626/626 255/263 3500-7500
Comp 645/630 260/264 3000-7000
Crane 580/600 242/250 3600-7000
Well pic out the rest of the parts first, heads (without springs) and then get all your info together and talk to a cam designer. The tunnel ram is going to effect the cam choice along with the heads. I'd be happy to sell you a valve train package to go with your setup and needs. Notice how many different cam choices you get, hell call them up a week from now and see if they give you the same 3 cams, probably not going to happen.
Bret
03-11-2004, 12:23 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 69
6. Lifter Recommendation
I’ve read the thread on Solid Street Roller Cams, and have pretty much concluded that the Crower and Crane Pro-Series roller lifters are the best for the intended application. A few questions that were not clearly answered in that thread was the advantages and disadvantages of vertical bar vs. horizontal bar lifters. I know that the lifter bore can be grooved to increase oil flow. Currently we are not running a windage tray, so would this help to splash more oil on the lifters themselves? Other than the two aforementioned lifters, could other, cheaper lifters be used considering the small amount of use the car sees? Can I groove the bores at home or does this need to be performed by a machine shop.
If anyone can answer any of these questions or give me any other advice which would help to further the development of this project, it would be greatly appreciated. My e-mail address is usa1racing@hotmail.com if you go into great detail in an answer. Sorry about the long postings and I’m looking forward to ANY help
I’ve read the thread on Solid Street Roller Cams, and have pretty much concluded that the Crower and Crane Pro-Series roller lifters are the best for the intended application. A few questions that were not clearly answered in that thread was the advantages and disadvantages of vertical bar vs. horizontal bar lifters. I know that the lifter bore can be grooved to increase oil flow. Currently we are not running a windage tray, so would this help to splash more oil on the lifters themselves? Other than the two aforementioned lifters, could other, cheaper lifters be used considering the small amount of use the car sees? Can I groove the bores at home or does this need to be performed by a machine shop.
If anyone can answer any of these questions or give me any other advice which would help to further the development of this project, it would be greatly appreciated. My e-mail address is usa1racing@hotmail.com if you go into great detail in an answer. Sorry about the long postings and I’m looking forward to ANY help
03-11-2004, 12:37 AM
#10
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Originally posted by usa1racing
All cams are ground on 106 degree lobe centers to help build cylinder pressure as a result of the low (relatively) compression. I liked the Comp Cam best because it provides the most lift and the lowest RPM range. I’ve used Comp Cams in the past and am pleased with them and their customer service so far. Whatever cam goes into the motor, it MUST remain streetable, as stated previously. I would like some opinions on which cam to go with, and if not one of the aforementioned cams, could anyone suggest an alternative.
4. Other Cam Questions
Does anyone have real world experience with the expected service life of cams of this range? Looking for an estimate of vacuum produced at idle. Are both a roller button and a wear plate both needed in this application? I would like to use a solid wear plate instead of the Torrington bearing model for fear of the bearing failing and the pieces falling into the motor.
All cams are ground on 106 degree lobe centers to help build cylinder pressure as a result of the low (relatively) compression. I liked the Comp Cam best because it provides the most lift and the lowest RPM range. I’ve used Comp Cams in the past and am pleased with them and their customer service so far. Whatever cam goes into the motor, it MUST remain streetable, as stated previously. I would like some opinions on which cam to go with, and if not one of the aforementioned cams, could anyone suggest an alternative.
4. Other Cam Questions
Does anyone have real world experience with the expected service life of cams of this range? Looking for an estimate of vacuum produced at idle. Are both a roller button and a wear plate both needed in this application? I would like to use a solid wear plate instead of the Torrington bearing model for fear of the bearing failing and the pieces falling into the motor.
As I said in the post above a cam design can take into accout all the things you need and get you what you want.
It's going to be about 11:1 so the Dynamic Compression Ratio is what you are getting into with the 106 LSA, might not be the most streetable with a 250-260 duration camshaft though.
A street solid roller should have new springs and a lifter rebuild at about 10,000 miles to assure that the parts don't break and are not warn down. Hey it's better than building a new motor.
Originally posted by usa1racing
5. Spring Recommendation
Springs Recommended by each manufacture are as follows:
Seat Press@1.900 Open Press@1.250 Coil Bind
Comp 943 240lbs 598lbs. 1.150
Comp 954 223lbs 537lbs 1.170
Lunati ~180-190lbs. ~500lbs.
Crane 198lbs. 511lbs.
The springs supplied by Edelbrock on their Vic Jr’s are made by Pioneer and are as follows 210lbs. seat pressure, 513lbs open pressure at the heights shown above and 1.170in. coil bind.
The Comp 943 seems like a lot of pressure for a streetable setup, not to mention the fact that they’re about twice as much as the 954’s. My big concern now is if the springs supplied by Edelbrock will be enough to coincide with any of the SR cams listed above.
5. Spring Recommendation
Springs Recommended by each manufacture are as follows:
Seat Press@1.900 Open Press@1.250 Coil Bind
Comp 943 240lbs 598lbs. 1.150
Comp 954 223lbs 537lbs 1.170
Lunati ~180-190lbs. ~500lbs.
Crane 198lbs. 511lbs.
The springs supplied by Edelbrock on their Vic Jr’s are made by Pioneer and are as follows 210lbs. seat pressure, 513lbs open pressure at the heights shown above and 1.170in. coil bind.
The Comp 943 seems like a lot of pressure for a streetable setup, not to mention the fact that they’re about twice as much as the 954’s. My big concern now is if the springs supplied by Edelbrock will be enough to coincide with any of the SR cams listed above.
Some of those springs are really light on seated pressure and some really heavy for a street car. Plus you have to tailor the spring to the cam lobe and application.
943's are VERY heavy seat pressure for street use and might only get you a few more miles before you should yank them for new ones. So no real point in all the added price.
Bret
03-11-2004, 12:42 AM
#11
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Originally posted by usa1racing
6. Lifter Recommendation
I’ve read the thread on Solid Street Roller Cams, and have pretty much concluded that the Crower and Crane Pro-Series roller lifters are the best for the intended application. A few questions that were not clearly answered in that thread was the advantages and disadvantages of vertical bar vs. horizontal bar lifters. I know that the lifter bore can be grooved to increase oil flow. Currently we are not running a windage tray, so would this help to splash more oil on the lifters themselves? Other than the two aforementioned lifters, could other, cheaper lifters be used considering the small amount of use the car sees? Can I groove the bores at home or does this need to be performed by a machine shop.
If anyone can answer any of these questions or give me any other advice which would help to further the development of this project, it would be greatly appreciated. My e-mail address is usa1racing@hotmail.com if you go into great detail in an answer. Sorry about the long postings and I’m looking forward to ANY help
6. Lifter Recommendation
I’ve read the thread on Solid Street Roller Cams, and have pretty much concluded that the Crower and Crane Pro-Series roller lifters are the best for the intended application. A few questions that were not clearly answered in that thread was the advantages and disadvantages of vertical bar vs. horizontal bar lifters. I know that the lifter bore can be grooved to increase oil flow. Currently we are not running a windage tray, so would this help to splash more oil on the lifters themselves? Other than the two aforementioned lifters, could other, cheaper lifters be used considering the small amount of use the car sees? Can I groove the bores at home or does this need to be performed by a machine shop.
If anyone can answer any of these questions or give me any other advice which would help to further the development of this project, it would be greatly appreciated. My e-mail address is usa1racing@hotmail.com if you go into great detail in an answer. Sorry about the long postings and I’m looking forward to ANY help
Well I wouldn't use a cheaper lifter in any case. Once one goes it's a complete rebuild and that's not worth the price no matter how much it is.
As for lifters, the Crower, Jesel or Comp lifters are going to work for you in that setup. You can groove the lifter bore yourself with the proper tools, hell I've heard of a guy doing it with a hack saw blade, but you want to have the motor torn down to do this so you can clean it. On top of that I don't think it's needed in what you are doing.
As far as the windage tray, it's going to splash more oil around but that's not really going to help. The lifter feed passages in the block and spring pressure will have more to do with the lifter oiling and the durability of the lifters.
Bret
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