I am going to upgrade my fuel system of my ITE road racing Camaro. I currently have most of the stock system in place, but have put a AN adaptor on the stock tank main feed hard 5/16th line and ran SS line from there to a fuel filter on the rear "firewall" and from there have bent up a hard 5/16th fuel line to the old fuel filter location.

Due to some fire scares at my last race...car caught fire twice ...I am looking to make it a safer system.

Here are some requirements:

1. Looking to do this as economical as possible
2. Stock tank will remain for now
3. Stock type fuel pump will remain for now

Here are some questions:

1. There are three lines running in the stock system. I plan on running the main line and return line in SS or aluminum tubing through the inside of the car.
2. Can I disconnect/remove the third line?
3. What size lines would you use? Main? Return?
3. Keeping in mind the "cheap as possible" budget, what recommendations do you have for: fuel filter, fuel regulator, fuel "y" block, etc.

My thumbnail sketch (first draft) is:

Off tank is -6 (can't go bigger unless I use a -6 to -8 adaptor) so from tank to fuel filter could be -6 or -8....to regulator....to "Y" block...then to -6 on the other sides of the "Y" to -6 fittings welded on the fuel rail.

Any input, part numbers, suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,

 

About your only choice in a intank fuel pump is the Walbro you get in the Racetronix kit. The three lines are fuel, return, and vent. The vent line is from a charcoal purge canister back near the fuel fill tube. This captures fuel fumes and the engine occasionally burns them. It only activates around idle speed. I don't think you want any fuel lines inside the car. You will want to run the new lines near the old ones route. I would use Russell proflex or something like it for the new lines. No point in going bigger with the line between two 6AN ends. If you start big say 10 from the pump to 8 from the fuel filter and reduce at the end it is a different matter. It would be better to wait until you can use a fuel pump outside the tank if you want to go bigger then 6AN.

 

1. There are three lines running in the stock system. I plan on running the main line and return line in SS or aluminum tubing through the inside of the car.

***I seriously doubt it is any way shape or form legal to run a fuel line inside the passenger compartment. Keep them outside. You do NOT want fuel lines inside, under any circumstances.

2. Can I disconnect/remove the third line?

***You can, but you need to address the tank venting issue. Without the carbon canister, you are going to notice a bit of fuel vapor venting from the tank in the back of the car. You need to make sure there is a path for vapor to escape when temperatures go up, and a path for air to enter the tank as the fuel level drops. The stock EEC canister/vent system takes care of all that. I would assume a simple gooseneck vent of the top of the tank, using the stock vent hose connection would be adequate. I would put a "rollover" valve in the vent.

3. What size lines would you use? Main? Return?

*** What kind of HP are you looking at? I run 800flywheelHP at 0.52 #/Hr/HP BSFC (nitrous) off a -6AN (3/8") supply and a -6AN return. The system will support 1,000HP.

3. Keeping in mind the "cheap as possible" budget, what recommendations do you have for: fuel filter, fuel regulator, fuel "y" block, etc.

***I guess I'm not sure why you are upgrading. What is the HP level? Why are you converting from a "recirculating" system to a "dead-end" system? You talk about a "return" line - and then you say you are running the pressure regulator right after the filter on the supply side. Do you plan to run a FPR with a "bypass" line back to the tank? Is this what you mean by a "return" line?

 

Thanks for helping Fred.

As I said, this is a gutted to the shell road race car, so lines in the passenger compartment may sound bad to most, but protecting them from things like HUGE ROCKS when off course and the occaisonal IMPACT from another 3000 lb. car is important. SCCA allows lines in the car as long as they are SS or steel. Had them in my last car for 10 years.

This car is a work in progress. I have spent a ton on it and have a ton to develope...can't just throw in all the stuff it "should" have at same time....still need $$$ to race

The car will probably be in the 400-500 RWHP area for its life....NA.

My goal is to have a safe fuel system as economically as possible. I probably described the system poorly (I am used to a Datsun system I raced for 10 years that had ONE line to the engine....IMAGINE THAT! )...I would like to follow the basic design of the current system...not turn it into a "dead end" system.

1. I would like to simplify things as much as possible...that is my thought on the removing the canister. So, if I put on a vented cap and run the vent up to the roll cage with a "rollover" check valve that would work. How about PCM interaction with the purge system...will it throw codes/affect performance? 1994 LT1 based car.
2. You are running a -6 main line and -6 return? I was under the impression that most liked -8 and -6. I do have a -6 on the stock tank plate hard line now.
3. Anyway, I am a modern fuel system rookie, and would like to alter the stock system as little as possible for now. With the exeption of making it compatible with a planned fuel cell "one day" if possible...

Thanks again