If all the machine work is done on a block can you go back and have it decked?Or is that going to screw up the bores.What is the proper order in which to machine a block.The reason I ask is because the shop did not deck my block,and I want it decked am I asking for more problems?

I now have piston in the hole .035/4.03 bore/Mahle -5cc piston/Eagle 5.7 rods/stock crank cut .010/57 cc heads/head gasktet to choose from .026/.029/.039/.046

 

No problem in getting it decked now. How much do you need to deck it?

 

Yeah not a issue...

Some shops like to chamfer the bores... some don't. I don't really want them chamfered because it's just another place for air/fuel to go that I don't want, but when you do it saves your knuckles, screw that I want less detonation.

Bret

 

I now have piston in the hole .035/4.03 bore/Mahle -5cc piston/Eagle 5.7 rods/stock crank cut .010/57 cc heads/head gasktet to choose from .026/.029/.039/.046


How much would you decked it ? I thinking piston in the hole .015 and using the .026 or am I better with 0 deck and using the .039.Thanks

 

"I thinking piston in the hole .015 and using the .026"

I agree

 

The proper way to build an engine is to do multiple teardowns. You won't know how much to deck a block until it's been bored out and the pistons installed. Then you tear it down and send it out for more machining.

It's easy to assemble an engine in less than a day but building an engine can take weeks. That's why if you have a machine shop build an engine for you it takes a long time. They're assembling and stripping it down to get all the proper measurements.

If you do ask the machine shop to deck the block when they have it for boring, you'll only want enough taken off to make the deck square. Normally they'll only remove less than .005". This will also help from blowing head gaskets.

 

Yeah.... that's the truth! Build, teardown, Build, teardown, and measure everytime... just keep repeating that and you are done.

If you are going to set a deck height like .015, .000 etc... you have to assemble the motor after you hone it see where it ends up and figure how much you need to deck it. Expect if you set a deck height measurement to cost the same as a zero deck.

Bret

 

Um, I'm not going to mention any names, but if a certain engine builder here would spend less time on the WWW, less time watching the X-Files, and less time drinkin,' he would be able to turn out about 300 more engines a year. Chit, maybe 300 more a month...

 

Ask him about his favorite Shiraz. Yeah, he's also a wine guy...or is that wino?

 

lol.... I wish.

 

Thanks guys, That's what I thought had all machine work done brought it all home.And put the rotating assembly together,checked deck height and all clearances.Now I'm doing the tear down and back to the Machine shop.It may be alot more work this way but it's also alot more fun than just slapping it together.Once again thanks for the help.

 

Measure all 4 corner's and mark the block. Do this with the same rod and piston and it will put ya exact when finished.

 

Suppose I want my decks true and the same on both banks, and I want as little material machined off as possible. That shouldn't be a problem, right? Should I expect to pay more for that than having it zero-decked?

 

That's called square decked and equal decked. When ya do it on all 4 corners with the same rod and piston and all rods and pistons are blueprinted,then ya should be able to get it dead nuts and if its a .020 cut they will probably do it in two cut's anyway to get the straightness and finish right. Most of those machines won't HOG cut to the final thousand's.
Maybe have to pay a tad more but its still "0" decked.But it's "0" on both sides square with the crank.
They will charge more to do it this way than just decking the block where as all they are worried about is the surface being flat and not a certain distance from the crank on both sides.

 

Thanks, that helps a bunch. It helps to know the proper machinist terms and their definitions when speaking to one's machinist.