Converting SBC heads to "reverse cooling"
Converting SBC heads to "reverse cooling"
OK guys I just found out something very interesting and I wanted to see what was known about it. Has anyone converted SBC heads such as Brodix, Edelbrock, or World to reverse cooling ? Seems to me that if it could be done that this would be the way to go. A friend of mine with a 396ci that's in the low 10s brought it up to me and I was very impressed. What can you tell me about it. What head would show the most potential if this was done to. How costly would the conversion be without any porting involved (that can come later). Thanks for any info guys!!
Re: Converting SBC heads to "reverse cooling"
Originally posted by RedHottG2
How costly would the conversion be without any porting involved
How costly would the conversion be without any porting involved
do a search........there isnt an exact figure, because each machine shop will charge differently..........but atleast a couple grand seems to be the average, just for the conversion.
its probably just better to buy large AFR LT4's and have them heavily ported, unless you have a really thick wallet.
Do you think the AFR LT4's would flow as well as SBC heads. Are the castings about the same to allow as much porting. Would you need an LT4 intake with the AFR LT4's or would a regular LT1 intake work ?
Just call some places. Its not that much work. I mean if someone charges $1500 to completely port a set of heads which can take tens and tens of man hours, this shouldn't be thousands of dollars to do...
I would guess between $500 and $1000, I have a set sitting on my floor that my Dad and I had done, but there was not an exact figure put on just that operation. But I can tell you we have less in these heads than a max effort AFR 227 and can use standard valvetrain. I dont know what the max has been on a set of 227's, but I can tall you ours flow WELL over 300 cfm@.700. We have Pro 235's.
David
David
Originally posted by JEREMYHERMAN
What has to be done to convert sbc heads to lt-1.Any buddy have pic's of converted heads
What has to be done to convert sbc heads to lt-1.Any buddy have pic's of converted heads
"The process involves welding shut several of the coolant passages and machining new openings in the head deck. There are also oil returns that need to be opened. I can't remember all the openings for coolant flow. The steam tube holes need to be machined and holes for the brackets need to be added. I don't really know how much a machine shop might charge to do the conversion. I can put you in touch with a guy who can tell you though. If you want more info, let me know.
An important detail is that the LT1 header primary flange had a different bolt pattern than would fit on the head. I had to weld a different flange on my headers to make it fit. Plug access looks pretty decent and header bolts should be accessible with a regular socket.
One other thing on the flange difference is that (on my 10's at least) the #3 and #5, and #4 and#6 primaries are spread apart a little further than on the LT1 heads. So both the bolt holes and the primary position is different. If you swap flanges, it's easy enough to spread the primaries apart and insert them into the corresponding holes. Using a standard LT1 bolt pattern won't help if the exhaust ports don't line up. I don't know if the heads you are looking at are spread port or not. Mine are, so I needed to change the flanges.
Incidentally, the intake ports line up fine, but you use a different gasket.
And The LT1 intake won't bolt to the heads. You have to tap new holes for it to bolt in."
Here you go, this is how the guy described the process. Hope it answers your questions.
An important detail is that the LT1 header primary flange had a different bolt pattern than would fit on the head. I had to weld a different flange on my headers to make it fit. Plug access looks pretty decent and header bolts should be accessible with a regular socket.
One other thing on the flange difference is that (on my 10's at least) the #3 and #5, and #4 and#6 primaries are spread apart a little further than on the LT1 heads. So both the bolt holes and the primary position is different. If you swap flanges, it's easy enough to spread the primaries apart and insert them into the corresponding holes. Using a standard LT1 bolt pattern won't help if the exhaust ports don't line up. I don't know if the heads you are looking at are spread port or not. Mine are, so I needed to change the flanges.
Incidentally, the intake ports line up fine, but you use a different gasket.
And The LT1 intake won't bolt to the heads. You have to tap new holes for it to bolt in."
Here you go, this is how the guy described the process. Hope it answers your questions.
Originally posted by Camaro_Maniac63
An important detail is that the LT1 header primary flange had a different bolt pattern than would fit on the head. I had to weld a different flange on my headers to make it fit.
An important detail is that the LT1 header primary flange had a different bolt pattern than would fit on the head. I had to weld a different flange on my headers to make it fit.


