I have called Comp Cams and Lunati both today. I am going with a solid roller but can't decide whick cam i wan't to go with. Here are the spec's they gave me:

Comp
236/242 @ 50
602 in
608 ex
112 lsa+2

Lunati
243/251 @50
582/582 lift
112 lsa with a 108 centerline

 

Hope you realize it really is very advanced tech to be able to help you w/o knowing the rest of your combination or your intended use. Like……ci, other mods, gears, intended rpm, compression, TB, even head flow numbers, etc. etc. and etc.

 

dont waste time and money contact bret baur aka sstrokerace on here

 

355 ci
4340 crank & rods
JE pistons
11.5:1 compression
AFR 227
sheet metal intake
58 mm tb
36 # injectors
Jet Hot lt headers
350 turbo trans
3.73 gears
28" tall tire
fast fi

Head flow numbers are:.200=138/112
.300=207/150
.400=258/190
.500=294/250
.550=298/213
.600=302/220
.650=305/225
.700=309/230

 

Why do you want to do a SR? How much RPM are you going to spin?

Bret

 

RPM isn't an issue. I have the bottom end and the valvetrain to handle whatever i need to turn it even though i know 7500 is still hard on parts i'm not afraid of it. I am not concerened about driveability either so that is one reason why i would like to go with a SR. From past combonations i have had good luck with solids, going from hydrolic roller to solids i have found 20-30 hp.

 

RPM is an issue based on a bunch of stuff? The stock computer bonks out around 7000(LT1)-72000 (LT4) so it's bit of a moot point beyond that unless you have upgraded to an aftermarket computer.

Also rear end ratio warrants rpm range too. Too low a gear with too steep a powerband will make it real doggy on the street. Duration, head intake volume and ci for the most part determine the powerband with intake runner length, compression, and headers having an effect also.

Your intake to exhaust ratio is around 73-74%. Comp Cams recommends a fixed intake/exhaust duration ratio @ 75% and both cams have more split in them so I'd say none of the above if you follow comp’s guide.

If you’re going to pick between the two, I do the smaller as the 236/242 design has pretty much proven itself as a very good cam. Also having that much intake flow, I’m guessing you’re probably in the 220cc range or so on head intake volume. That combined with 355ci sways me towards the smaller cam also.

Duration probably has the most effect on drivability whether it is a solid roller or hydraulic design. Solid rollers can have great drivability as well as hydraulics so drivability based upon solid vs hydraulic is not an issue.

FYI... you say you have had good results with solid rollers, but I'll play devils advocate and tell ya I've had horrible. A real string of broken lifters and galled camshafts using solids.

Still not convinced that if you compare apples to apples below 7000 rpm using the newer design hydraulic lifters that there is an significant enough power difference to take the chance like I did and ruin a couple of engines. When someone can produce an objective dyno sheet that compares apples to apples regarding equal duration/lift of the two designs, I’ll change my mind. I’ve not seen anything to prove it and the dyno sheets I’ve recently seen makes me a bit skeptical.

 

RPM is ALWAYS an issue. You can't know your valvetrain parts are correct to handle the chosen lobes and rpm before you have the cam spec'd. That's putting the cart before the horse.

You may not fear 7500, but your engine might if all the valvetrain parts don't get along well. If you want near optimum engine output, your cam design(er) is going to be on the edge of aggressiveness, lift, etc. If you are willing to leave power and torque on the table, going milder may allow you to use the parts you have and keep the engine in one piece.

My $.02.

 

With those heads on a 355 you probably want to spin higher yet, or get realistic and buy the right heads for the bottomend.

 

With those heads and the right compression,ya are in line to make 625FWHP which is doable with a 355 but ya gonna have to turn it above 8000RPM's maybe 7900. Ya going to have to get a Fast system or Big Stuff 3 and tune the crap out of it. Put ya a 5.13/5.32 gear in it with 30 tall tires,a Turbo 350 with a brake and leave about 4500/5000RPM's and I can see low 8's with a 3000lb car.Just don't think it gonna drive very good on the street. But ya could show um how wheel stands are done from the red light. Just lock the tranny,put her on the stutter box and let her rip tater chip.Green light--------

 

SOunds like a winner to me. I am going to use a fast system. I have splayed mains, 4340 crank, rods, and JE pistons so the bottom end should hold but as we all know any race engine is a time bomb waiting to blow, just dont really want to go with that low of a gear.

 

Sorry to be so off topic, but what's with all the ya's. Ya are making me head hurt!!!

 

Then don't read it! If that's all you have to add, your response isn't needed.

 

Take two aspirin.