I had overheard some guys talking about these heads and just wondering if anyone has any in depth knowledge of them. How they Flow, Price, and if they even make a set specifically for the LT1. Even how they are compared verses other heads and Which every one would reccomend overall.

THanks Everyone,
-JOhn

 

I have Brodix -10's on my LT1. They require extensive modification to convert to reverse flow cooling. I don't believe there are any made specifically for the LT1. They must be converted to work. They flow a lot with porting. According to the guy I bought mine from, mine flow 302 at .500 lift. I haven't had them flowed independently, so I'm not 100% confident of the numbers, but they're probably close. I will say this though, my car behaves just like you would expect with too much flow on stock cubes. Powerband is high, and it never runs out of air. Low end isn't great, but it flies up top (above 3000).

 

The modifications are not that bad

I just got my Brodix -18s. Instead of drilling the back of the heads i decided to drill the back of the intake.

Mine flow 320+ out of the box

http://www.brodix.com/onlinecatalog/...26/page25.html

Now getting an intake on them is a whole different story LOL

No Brodix is not going to address the LT1. Not realy worth there time for such a small niche. they made the LT for 6 years out of the 48 they have been making SBCs and they only came in a few cars.

Good luck!

 

I'm using the stock LT1 intake. Not optimal, but it works.

 

John,

There are some great Brodix heads. The only bad thing about them is the conversion if you don't want to spend some $$$$$ for them. Which my guess is that you don't.

A bare AFR casting that is setup for the LT1 from the start is as good of a starting ground as you can get for a LT1 within reason. If you did go for the conversion, going to a race head is the only reason for this. The -10X can flow some air, but it's still a 23deg head. A 18deg or 15deg SB2 or Splayed Valve head makes it all worth while. Then again they are so big that they are not street car heads at that point and have high RPM power bands. The only one that could be made into a bad *** street car head is the small 18X's.

Then the intake manifold is the next problem. It's not the best thing in the world and it doesn't exactly bolt up. So then you have to look at the rest of the options.

Bret

 

I have a forged bottomend 84. I'm running a 240/246 cam with
around a ~ .540/.545 lift with 1.6 rr's.. I am still running the
protopline vortec 170cc heads (grumble) with porting right now.

My goals:

400-450rwhp LS1 Killer out of my 357 sbc. I have no desire to spin it
past 6800 because to me thats really my limit of street/strip car
powerband. This is to be done on a budget. I have a tad bit of a
weight advantage.. so I'm really just trying to get in the ball park
as far as heads/cam Ls1 power.

I purchased the car with the 6 speed and forged bottomend already
in place, and mucho suspension components, etc. It really is a nice
ride. Thus far my total amount invested is approaching $4400. I would
really like to get a set of heads that will keep my total cost down
very low so I can brag to the locals! Which brodix if any, or if
possible will fulfill my needs? I'm looking in the budget range,
ie. ~1500 or less.. the cheaper the better. With the different valve
angles that is offered on the Brodix's, will this mean I have to replace
my headers? Thanks!

 

Cheap and Brodix don't really mix. A Bare no parts T1 will take up your whole budget. A CNC ported T1 which is a awesom head is going to be around $2500.

The race heads are going to start in the $3K range.

Yep, even some of the 23 deg Brodix heads will need different headers.

If you want budget and good flow in the same sentence then look at AFR.

I say that not because I am AFR dealer, but because they have some great bang for the buck heads. The AFR 190-195cc heads on a 350-358 are a great street head. Everything bolts up to them. On top of that you have room to port them later on.

Bret

 

That in addition to pistons and intake manifold

With your budget and rpm goals it almost seems like a set of ported stock heads or afrs like Bret mentioned would be the way to go, and if you bent on beating those 450rwhp ls1, just add a 100shot

 

HI, OneFlyn95z28
sorry but you mail box is full, don't mean to junp in here SORRY

i have been reading on 58mm tb and i am puting one on my car, what did you do to the tune to get the thing to work, or is there any tips i shoud no.

Or any other info you could add would be great thx


Now on to this subject what kind of $$$$ are we looking at here to do this.
-heads fixed for LT1 $$
-intake LT4/carb/custom intake to fit or fab
-headers
-will this all work with the stock pcm


what kind of budget are we looking at here

 

what about these brodix 18* heads? , they use standard 23* valvetrain stuff, and flow 320cfm out of the box. summit sells them for $1999 complete, so im guessing you can get them even cheaper.

how much would it cost to convert them to reverse flow?

 

Those are great, but you still have to consider it says-
"requires special length pushrods" Which isnt a big deal.
"requires special 18* pistons" which is more of a big deal...

 

unless youre building a 383 anyway!

 

It's not just the conversion cost but the parts that go along with it.

Pistons, Headers, Intake Manifold. Those all have to be changed made or heavily modified. If you were doing a whole build up obviously it's much cheaper.

The 18X heads are great heads for a big cube street motor or a race 383. Don't get me wrong I like them I'd love to build a big cube street car out of them, but a LT1 is going to make them a larger undertaking than most guys plan on. Would I like to see it done or work on that, yeah! But Your getting into more expensive engine territory than the average Joe wants to do.

Bret

 

Put a price tag on this set up how much $$$$$$$$$$$$ i would realy like to no

 

When they say "standard exhaust", does that mean traditional off-the-shelf headers for SBCs can be used? What about LT1 specific headers?

Also, looking at their chart for the ported 18Xs, those flow numbers are awfully close to many of the ported AFR 220s I've seen ( 18Xs average about 10-15cfm more after .400 lift, and they're about even before that). Even with the 18* design, would they make much more power over the 220s to be worth it? Just curious