I was reading the long thread on the Brodix 18X heads, and I want to buy a set for my 1996 LT1. Who here can tell me where to get the best price on an either complete or a bare set?
Injuneer, if this doesn't belong here, please feel free to move it. I just thought the people who have good knowledge on these heads post here.
One more thing. If you guys can give me a part number or the one I need to buy, that would help too.
Appreciated...
-Goose

 

your best bet would to try and find a set used and go from there.. I dont remember full but I think flatlander racing had some pretty decent prices, But then again there is still alot involved if you wanna run these heads, pistons, headers, converting to to reverse flow, all cost $$$ lol


-john

 

You know the have to be converted for the reverse flow cooling and LT-1 oil return,etc.

 

I know all about the convertion for reverse cooling and all tthat stuff.
About the pistons...
Do you have to create a valve relief cut in them?
Right now I have a set of forged Diamond Piston. The motor is a 383CID.
If you were to keep the same pistons, what would it need to be done?
Thx-Goose

PS: And yes, we're going to fabricate an intake manifold also.

 

[QUOTE=zhevy-1]I know all about the convertion for reverse cooling and all tthat stuff.
About the pistons...
Do you have to create a valve relief cut in them?
Right now I have a set of forged Diamond Piston. The motor is a 383CID.
If you were to keep the same pistons, what would it need to be done?
Thx-Goose

You will have to check the fly cuts to see if they match. Put modeling clay in the cuts and install a head with an old gasket,assemble your cam and valve train and roll the engine 4 rev's and check clay thickness and diameter in relation to your valves.Ya need to make 2 of your lifters solid by putting a correct length bolt inside after removing plunger and re assemble.Let shop recut as necessary or they may be OK. A minimum of .080 I an .100 E clearance will get it done for a street engine can use a little less if it's a trailer queen.

 

Can you explain a little bit more on the solid lifters? Is that just for measuring and geometry purposes only while you gauge everything?
Thx-Goose
PS: No, it won't be a trailer queen. I plan to race it at the track, and be able to cruise on the weekends. It's not a daily driver either, but I like to get around in it for fun, if you know what I mean.

 

Ya take all the guts out of two lifters and grind two bolts to a length that will just let the cap and wire lock go back on and ya got a solid lifter.(don't get ideas it won't work) from there ya can check the pocket's. Make sure everything is CLEAN when ya put them back together to go in the engine.
.080 &.100 will be the number I would use but ya will probably have 50 different opinions as to what is correct.Some like more. but the number isn't chiseled in stone.Ya want to run it small as to have more compression and ya will never get it large enough to clear everything in case of valve float.

 

Thanks for the info. The shop doing this for me is very competent. I just didn't feel questioning details. They're taking care of the fabrication of the manifold, and porting the heads, since I'll most likely be getting a bare set.
-Goose