Looking for some help with this becuase i do not know much about this and a search yeilded no mentionable results(in either forum)

I have a LT1, stock bottom end(for now) and a cam motions single patter 244 duration .611 lift on a 112 LSA
CC 943 paecalloy Valve springs so i am running alot of seat pressure.
Melling high pressure pump(stock pan)
Crane sollid roller lifters

Just currious, what am suppose to do on initial startup? I vaugely remember people saying run it at like 2000 rpm for several minutes. Whwn should i change the oil?

Also what should i expect? I am refering to oil pressure, idle, noises, what to look for etc.

Lastly, what is the proper meathod for check valve to piston clearance? do i just slap on a head and 2 RR and see if it turns over or do i need to measure it with clay?(if so how much)

 

well I would definetly check piston to valve clearance, and yes use clay to mock it up. A good safe point is probably around 80th for intake and about 120th for exhaust Exhaust usually has more because the piston is chasing the exhaust valve up. While intake valve is going down as piston is going down also. You can juggle the clearance by using certain head gaskets. we have used 45th copper head gaskets on a tight clearance. Do you have stock pistons? 600 lift roller I cant believe its going to clear. If your motor is already together dont worry if it hits Isky makes a tool that lets you cut into the piston while the motor is in the car. It looks like a valve that you use in a empty head, more on this later if you do need it by chance. hope not Good luck

 

Oh yes, a solid roller cam doesnt need breakin but you still treat it like a solid cam, not so much for the wear in but making sure everything else looks good. Rockers, springs, pushrods.

 

Ok, thjanks for the replys

to answer some of your questions, yes, stock pistons :eek
The motor is not assemble yet, planning on doing that tomorow. right now just a shortblock sitting on a engine stand.

I have and will use the "red stuff" assemble lube, i guess on everything, but especiall the cam and lifters

RacinZ.... In your personal opinion, are you saying you think i will have a problem with the piston to valve clearance? I sure hope not but will still difinatly check
The head i have i *think* (i should ask) were shaved 30 thousands(sound riight?) [52ccs with some chamber work]

ANy other help greatly appreciated

 

Yes I think you will, not only lift but duration is the most critical also. Most people think its only lift but duration keeps the valve open while the piston is chasing it up or down. Thats why some guys say my 600 lift cam worked and then a guy with 550 lift hits because of his duration also plays a factor and also valve size. Stock pistons usually have eyebrows that fit a stock size valve. Then you go to a bigger valve size and the same cam hits. Personally seen it happen to my friends car and hurt all the intake valves. Yes shaving heads decreases piston to valve. You need to mock up 1 piston at least on your block and then put your heads on without a head gasket (increases safety margin). When you check if it hits see where does it hit, the outside edge which is then a simple fix (die grinder) yes it sounds rigged but it will work. If its the piston relief itself then I would get them flycut. If you do have clearance but close minimum 80thousands you can juggle head gaskets. Yes they make head gaskets as thick as 60thousands. To thick for me but it does work. Let me know anything I can help with answer.

 

Thanks mind games

i am gunna go check the P/v clearance now *fingers crossed*

 

Just did a P/v test

I put on a head with out a head gasket, put on two RR and turn the motor over. It went all 360* with out binding at all.

so i know i have at least ~.40 clearance (thickness of the felpro 1074)

I think i will pull the head and try again with some clay just to see how close it is...

Is this good? think i will be fine? i am well UNexperience in this area.

 

hey real quick did you adjust your rockers or did you use zero lash which will also efect the clearance. I usually use a little oil on the valve so it doesnt stick to the clay. then I use a razor blade and slice it in the middle and measure the thickness. You can stack some feeler gauges against it if you dont have a micrometer (spelling?) good luck Andel

 

hey mindgame I think I did post it in the beginning post on clearance. Looks like he's on the right track

 

Hey guys

I did the P/V clearance check with the clay. I guess you can run a moderate/high duration and +.600 lift cam with a shaved heads and stock pistons. Head gaskets on and lash set at 0 it barely indented the clay at all... pic here:

http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...3_129_full.jpg

if link no worky, go here: then to the bottom of page 8
www.cardomain.com/id/camarossguy2

As for break in, from what i have read from you guys this is the plan; Prime, run for~ 10-20 mins at rpms with good oil pressure..
Change oil...run semi normal, not really really hard yet for ~100-150 miles' change oil again, put in synthetic, run normal and go back to me 2500 miles oil changes
Sound good?