I need to re finish a cyl on a ~1000mile motor so that some new rings will seat.

Any suggestions on where to pick one up and what grit? JE pretty much told me "whatever".

 

A Bottle Hone or Flexhone is going to just go in and knock the tops of the crosshatch off, and probably make seating your rings even harder than it was before. I'm guessing that the "whatever" answer was because the proper surface for the rings needs to be done on something like a cylinder king with the proper stones for the job. Shouldn't bee too much money to taek the block to a machine shop and have them bolt on the TQ plate and just dust the cylinder with the right stones for you.

Bret

 

I have used a cheap 3 stone spring-loaded hone like you can chuck in a hand drill a few times. If the bore is fresh and doesn't have a ridge at the top and isn't worn tapered or out of round it works OK. I only do this on cheap "throw together" motors. Not something where I'm paying close attention to tolerances. Remember, you're enlarging the bore slightly by taking off metal so you don't want to go overboard here. 30 seonds per cylinder while moving the whole thing up and down quickly from top to bottom is all it takes to break any glaze loose.

BTW- a "glazed" cylinder is rare in a relatively fresh block. Unless you've had one or more cyliders that isn't firing for an extended period of time, chances are there is no "glaze" to break loose. In that case, do NOTHIGN to the bore. Install the pistons with fresh rings and fire it up.

 

I am merely going by what JE said.

the motor has about 1k miles on it, where it broke a ring land. luckly it didnt score the cyl. I have a new piston for it, but I am concerned with having a machine shop to do hone, as I want to ensure VERY LITTLE is taken off, like at MOST .001 (dont want to open up the cyl too much.

i COULD go to a .035 replacement piston, which it looks like I may have to?

 

Gee, talk about a lack of respect.

BRM/Flex hone people would be pulling their hair out, if they were to read this thread.

 

i guess I didnt mean that, I meant like a 3- prong "stone" thing. ive used one on ghetto rebuilds before.


Since this motor is low mile, I wanted to go that route(no ridge, cyl should be close to round)

but I guess I can order a .035 replacement piston and get a shop to do it if i need to?

 

How about having the shop that honed the block for the rebuild look at the cylinder, and if they have the equipment, measure the surface finish, and see how much it has changed since the rebuild.

Best case scenerio: no work will be required. Worst case: oversize (.010?) piston. I'm an optimist.

My bigger concern is why did it break a ring land? If that is a symptom of either the build or the use, you might see more of this. Do you know why it broke?

 

Jordon! You know better than to use a dingle ball hone on a real engine!

 

BTW, you need to see this new shop too!

 

Jordon, the cylinder hone removes metal pretty slowly with finish stones. It takes several minutes of honing to remove .001 from a cylinder, and your shop would likely remove more like .0005 or less.

What caused the broken land anyway?

 

FWIW, if a hone takes "several minutes" to remove .001 from a cylinder bore, even with finishing stones, it's not cutting, it's "burnishing" the surface and generating heat. That's not a really good idea, IMO.

Yes, depending on the condition of the bore, .0005-.001 might do it.

 

Really? The hone I used was an Axe manual pumper, and with the load at ~80% it would take a couple minutes to remove .001 with finer stones (forgot what grit, but the grit wasn't the number on the stones anyway).

What hone do you have, and how quickly does it take out a thou?

PS are you guys going to engine masters?

 

I have been dinking around with a drill hone on my talon motors. The last 2 that I did turned out very well. I never did a leak down but compression was up on all cylinders. I though about doing this on the camaro motor, but for $150 its pocket change when it comes to this. Maybe one day I will buy a torque plate and do it myself.

 

erik, yea I need to come down and check out your shop.


Why did it break? oh lets see... p600B+no fuel = broken piston. Its not my motor, fyi.

 

would a bottle brush be good enough to use to remove some minor rust from the cylinders...and if so who sells them?