I'm curious about the strength of a #184 CNC cast iron dry sump Bowtie block vs the strength of a Little M or an Iron Eagle, are they comparable or is the Dart the superior product. I'm looking at some pretty serious horsepower (big turbo).
Thanks!

 

The Dart and GM Bowtie are both super strong blocks. If we can get a LT1 block to live at 1000hp I don't know how much you need to break the Bowtie, but i'm sure it's not going to be the weak link.

Bret

 

Cool, I just didn't know if it was specifically designed to be light and handle say 1000hp, because that's all Nascar really needs, or if it was capable of big power without failure..

 

I don't think GM blocks can handle anywhere near the power. Bowtie blocks are good, but not as good as a Dart block. The only GM block that I would even compare, which is just as strong is the Rocket block. I've seen to many Bowties that have the same problem as the basic 400 block. Cracking in the cyclinder walls on the middle head bolt hole.

 

Definitely can't consider myself an engine builder or a race engine builder, but I have taken a couple of phsyics classes here and there.

My opinion would be that just because LT1s have made 1000+ horsepower before doesn't mean that the block liked it. IOW, stress and strain on the LT1 block might be giving up some distortion at lower hp levels. Just as an unstable valvetrain might start letting things go out of whack (read: losing power) at 450hp, maybe the block starts getting a little tempermental at 600hp...?

I think someone has done a comparison (Maybe I read it in a magazine) of blocks back to back (dyno). They swapped the internals out and ran the new block. Just like alot of other parts, I don't think there isn't a set number that a block will break at. Long before it breaks there will be warning signs. Not sure what the warning signs would be, or if it is even possible to measure these signs accurately?

Ryan

 

Oh yeah.... there is no way the LT block wants to do that much power, but it can. The type of power you throw at it too is the key, a N2O motor is much harder on the block and parts compared to a centrifgal or turbo setup.

Bret

 

Hell yes....ALOT harder!

Which is easier on it, blower or turbo?

 

and I'm thinking I won't have a terrible amount of cylinder pressure, but probably some pretty high rpm (10k).. well maybe it will have high cylinder pressure.. Here's the skinny, it's SB2.2 heads, and I'm trying to decide on an SB2 block or a std block. they both have their benefits..

 

My Sb2.2 block is pretty wicked. It's a real Winston Cup Series Block. The SB2.2 block starts out as a 184 bowtie and is then CNC'd. The damn block from GM is around $3400. SO at the price might as well save and get a better Dart block.

 

the block I'm questioning is a #184 CNC'd dry sump bowtie block, it's bad to the bone for what it is, and the price is right. (package deal.) For the simplicity of it all I'd like to run the SB2 block, but I won't if it won't handle the power. I think it will handle the power if tuned right and it's not detonated.. thoughts??

 

You dont need a SB2 block for a roller cam setup, you can use either or.

I think it's actually harder to get off the shelf roller lifters for the SB2.2 block, so you might want to look at that as well.

The block is not going to be your weak link.

Bret

 

My SB2.2 made 2200 on the engine dyno, so I wouldn't worry Brady. One thing I hear people complain about with these blocks is cap walk and Cracked cylinders. So just keep an eye out. 184 CNC'd Dry Sump = SB2.2 Block = $3400 from GM

 

That's what I wanted to know, thanks!~

Cap walk is normal in my book.
Hey Rick, those are nice headers, why didn't you use them?

 

I dunno, might build a splayed valve motor.

 

Turbo