'Cause cubes are COOL, you friggin' jabronie!
Yeah, yeah; I know...a 396 ISN'T SMALL!

 

anything less than a 427 is small.... 427 is.... the size...

 

In a quest for a very streetable 500 RWHP NA motor, on pump gas, on stock ECM, don't those cubes begin to make sense? I certinly agree a great 383 might get you there but won't it be a bit high strung for a street motor?

Steve

 

We'll let you know MG, Im trying to be # 0 on that list.

 

SABLT194, you and I are thinking along the same lines my friend


Nick

 

$10,495 and you get a warranty. 610 hp at 6,400 rpm and 584 lb-ft at 4,500.



Rich

 

Well food for thought.... I would not recommend much over 500lbft tq in a stock 400 block wich isnt hard to acheve. The 400 blocks suffer from poor cyl wall thickness when bored. My first .030" over block cracked a cyl wall vertically. I then replaced the block with one we did a partial water jacket fill on(not so good on a street motor). With no other changes other than fresh rings and bearings the motor picked up a tenth proving that in the first block, ring seal was a little less than desired. Unfortunatly that block also failed it broke 3 main caps (pictures here) http://hometown.aol.com/kwik39/myhomepage/auto.html It also does not take into consideration the amount of block prep on a stock block The block in the pictures required a bit of grinding with a stock stroke crank (3.75") and 6" eagle rods. A 4" would only make clearancing it more of a challange. I am not saying it can't be done...only IMO it would be better to start with an aftermarket block. My new Dart block was dropped of this week hopfully the new 18* heads will be done this weekend!

 

Couldn't we make that Hex? That way I could at least hope for an F.

 

No sir, I'd have to map you to binary.



-Mindgame

 

that puts the 472 hemi at $14,000 525horse 540tq to shame.

 

Wow, where'd you see that anchor?

-Mindgame

 

try the mopar catalog

 

He edited his post, adding "hemi"..... Mr. Observant.

-Mindgame

 

Speaking as someone that's actually personally done many of these big inch small block chevys I would say "it depends!"

Big inches make power easier and more reliably than small inches and that's just a fact. As people here have brought up, the new GM LS7 is not smaller! This is not an accident. You can turn more rpm and you can make more tq or you can do both to make more power. Bigger engines though can make the power lower in rpm so they are usually reliable and that's why everyone does it or at least trys it!

Now the problems! As has already been mentioned here the big stroke cranks do not just fall in a SBC block! much thought and clearancing and only the right stuff can go in any particular SBC block. SBC blocks are also different and some have higher and some have lower water jackets in them among other differences. You can get cranks with smaller journals and smaller rods that will clear the cam and bores much easier but they are not ever cheaper.

If you want a truly big inch engine go with a real engine builder that has done this before. That way you are not stuck making all the mistakes that will happen to guys not experienced at it. I've done 450+ CID small blocks in the rocket blocks or iron eagles and even up to 447 in a stock 400 block and that is still running btw.

Not knocking anyone on here but I see much bad info on what clears and what doesn't and it all depends on the blocks in question and the builders competency. An LT1 block has higher water jackets for instance than an older 2pc rms SBC. You can run the eagle stuff out to 3.875 no problems and the 4.000 specialty cranks and rods in an LT1 without hitting water or the cam because I do it all the time and I mean without reduced base circle cams either but again you must know what you are doing (some slight rod machining).

At some point you are definitely on the diminishing returns side of the financial equation vs the power you are making though so that must always be kept in mind as shelf parts are much cheaper and easy to get.

 

racer.agreed.
but from my experience in which i just finished my 425,.050. over job,my eagle stuff didnt clear my cam,so i was forced to go to a small base circle,then as a result of running a small base circle,i was forced to run a different or longer lifter to offset the small base circle cam.
also.anyone thinking of building a stroker keep this in mind,bigger is better sure,but when it comes to running a 4 in storke on these stock blocks with a 6 in rod,it makes the ring grooves very tight and you dont get as well of a ring seal as you would like and since the pin is so high in the piston you could get some rocking of the piston especially if you over rev it,and that rocking up op could cause the piston to hit the head.just food for thought so you might want to think about sacraficing a few cubes and running the 3.875 stroke to help offset these troubles