im putting together a new 383 nitrous motor so far this is what i got in my head: oh and spraying 250 shot

Scat or Probe Forged crank
Probe Forged rods
Mahle Forged pistons w/ mahle coatings
callies billet splayed mains
stef's oil pan and pump

i was first thinking about Childs and Alberts tool steel Zero gap rings then i started reading up and im seeing bad things about gapless rings. i just want the best ring possible, price is of no concern.

same thing with bearings, i definitely want to have them coated. but FM or Kings? and where should i have them coated?

what about cam bearings? durabond? kings? FM? should i coat them aswell?

 

Rings - Zero gap cost too much for what they do. Properly gapped rings work just as good. Sealed Power (Speed Pro, TRW), low tension, file fit, plasma-moly rings are in my engine.

Engine bearings - Nothing but Clevite 77's
Cam bearings - Clevite 77's but any stock replacement will do fine. The cam bearings don't get the same stresses as the mains and rods do.

I'm to the point now where I have to put new bearings and rings in the engine every winter.

 

I agree with the previous post re: Clevite bearings. I have had good luck with them. A friend swears by King "Alecular" bearings, which are a two rather than a three layer bearing. I don't see a use for exotic rings in a street or street/strip car. Just get a good set of moly rings. Race cars can gain a few hp from low tension rings but they should not be used in street or street/strip cars. Speed Pro has worked for me as well.

Rich

 

I've learned that there are several items in vehicles that need to just "work." there is a VERY VERY VERY small margin of performance that you can from them. Its not like a set of heads or a camshaft that are measured in their level of performance, where all heads cam move air, but one moves more air.

Head bolts for example. they need to hold the head down tight. I suppose you could make them lighter, but the gain is completely negligable.


On a street car, IMHO, bearings and rings are the same thing. They need to not fail.

Clevite and above mentioned brands have benn proven. By moving to a brand that has not been proven, you risk failure, but if they do work- how much better can they really be? especially if cost is of no concern (not that there is much difference when compared to something like good rods vs bad rods)

I just places an order for some heat treated bolts that were about $20 a peice. No offsizes or anything, just heat treated. I'm sure I could have saved $3 a bolt by going elsewhere, but this brand hasn't failed, so i'll stay will them. Racing seems to be very "good old boys." And for good reasons i'm finding.

 

Clevite 77's,Total Seal ductile iron file to fit.

 

You got my attention.

What kind of bolts are you talking about that are $20 a piece. They didn't start with "6AL-4V" or something similiar did they?
Want to stay away from those.

As for bearings, Clevite, King Alecular (King makes a couple different types) FM... all preferences aside, I don't think you can go wrong with any of those. I've had great luck with Durabond cam bearings and have gotten more life from them than some others.

Rings... Speed Pro, JE, C&A.

-Mindgame

 

no, NAS (i cant remember the number). they would have been $13, but i needed a 15/16ths grip length.

**** for turbos are expensive. New fuel lines, oil lines and coolant lines will cost you a fortune alone (well, we use XRP). The carbon plumbing didn't make it much cheaper either

we love carbon around here

 

Clevitte 77 PC-9 coated by swain...

 

childs and albert ZGF rings! i love them!!!

 

I have mostly used Cl 77 bearing in my motors, I have used speed pro bearings before and they were stamped federal mogul,

Speed pro rings have treated me good as well.

 

I'd also recommend against using Clevite's cam bearings, especially the 1349 in a high spring-pressure (180+ seat) setup. They're hard and don't have much babbit material. Notoriously problematic for street guys running more spring.

-Mindgame