Ok...thinking about selling my whole engine and getting more serious.

Where could I get a decently priced 396 assembly at...and what kind of parts would I need to spray a 250-300 shot.

How much can the less expensive kits with cast cranks take.(or the lesser expensive forged units) I don't mind spending for good parts ,but I don't want to over do it on parts either. I don't need a 3 thousand dollar crank that can survive 2000 horses. This will still be a street car. I'm wanting to go high 10s n/a and run into the 9s on the gas.

What kind of compression could I get away with and still use pump gas on the street. I don't want it to be a turd when it's not on the hose either so I want to keep it up there. Is 475-500 horses attainable n/a and still streetable.

How much could a 4 bolt main block with arp bolts take ,or do I just have to have splayed caps.

I know I could find these questions searching ,but I'm lazy..lol

 

Cheap and 396 doesn't really work. 383 and cheap is a little bit better and probably gives you more HP for your $$$.

On that note, if you look at the guys running 10's and 9's they are not doing that cheaply anyways and they usually are not really streetable.

What part of your goals is most important? How much are you willing to spend to get there? Knowing those answers will be able to direct you closer to where you are going to end up.

Bret

 

I just dumped around 14k into my 396. If you looking at stay all motor and run10's or better, it's gonna cost. Good luck.

Neal

 

haha i dont even wanna know how much im gonna end up spending it will proably be around 15 grand also and that not including the fast system, nitrous set up, and if i was doing a crank trigger and stuff it would be way more

 

I found out a good reason to go forged, when you buy a forged kit for $2000 or so, it comes balenced, when you go cheap and get $800 cast set-up, it's not balenced, and that will cost you another $500 up because they are so out of wack from factory. I learned that the hard way with y friends cast 383 set-up.

Brian

 

Nothing comes balanced. Not sure where you got that from. That's what your engine builder does. Drills the crank and adds mallory if need.

 

The majority of the aftermarket such as the 4340 eagle 396 kits CAN be internal balanced with NO heavy metal at all. The clearancing with the newer rod bolts is also not that bad.

They are as cheap as around 1200 dollars with SRPs and cast cranks for a 383 kit with I-beam rods to around 1500-1600 dollars for the internally balanced 383/396 kits with 4340 cranks and H-beam rods and SRP pistons. I know since we sell them all the time. RIght off hand I know that the 396 has a flat top and I think I have to get a special version for a dish that might take a bit longer. If you go KB hypereutectic of course these kits are about 200 cheaper.

 

Also you can get these balanced for about 150.00 more.

 

you are talking SBC not BBC right?

 

A 250hp-300hp nitrous shot is a huge stress on the motor. The bottom end really takes a beating. If you plan to do this and use the nitrous very much, if you expect decent longevity you will need a stout bottom end. If you get a 4-bolt block and install some steel replacement caps you will save a bit over installing 4-boly splayed caps on a 2-bolt block. It will be strong enough. But a cast crank will not be strong enough for what you have in mind.

Nitrous and compression are a good mix, you can run as high as you like depending on the fuel available and the cam you plan to use.

Rich Krause

 

thx guys....and thx rskrause...you answered all the questions I had....especiallly my main cap delima..

 

I think we are all talking small blocks here!