I am about to purchase a 383 and was considering making it a 396. Since the bore size is the same in both the 383 and the 396 I was wanting to know what all would I have to change. I know I need to get a longer stroke crank, but is that all or do I need to change the lenght of the connecting rod too? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

This actually should be posted in a regular tech section but since you dont list what engine or car this is for, i dont know where to put it.

You will need a difrent Crank and difrent pistons.

And lastely can you comply with the board rules, and make your email address visible via editing your profile?

Thanks!

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Ken Mook - 97' SS #2544
Advanced Tech Posting Guidelines

• ?rwhp & ?rwtq Naturally Aspirated on the Stock Bottom End.
• Stage 3 Pro Performance Heads, Solid Roller 242/248 Cam, Endur-X Lifters,
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I apologize, I am still new to the board so you will have to excuse my ignorance. I thought my question belonged in the advanced tech section since it dealt with the specs of building a stroker motor.

The motor is an LT1 383 that is going in my 95 TA. It has LT4 heads/intake, with the bottem end being all forged parts. My question was would I need a different length connecting rod to go along with a 3.875" crank to make the motor a 396. I didn't think I would need different pistons since the bore size is 4.030" for either size motor.
Again sorry for the screw up.

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95 TA
383 LT1, fully ported LT4 heads/LT4 intake, 58mm throttle body, 1.6rr, Hot Cam (about to get rid of), NX wet sys (will soon be new NX MAF sys.), Shorty Headers, Mufflex 4" sys with no cat. Appearence: shaved door handles, shaved rear spoiler, lowered 2in., 18x10.5 and 17x9 zo6 wheels

 

There is no way to justify turning a healthy 383 into a 396, unless you have a ton of money to burn. You'll need a new crank, new pistons, rings, balancing, and you would have to clearance the block for the extra stroke. You'd end up paying $2k+ and come out with an extra 10hp.



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TimbrSS
96 Camaro SS M6, ATI D1SC, HOT LT4 conversion, RK Sport headers, Borla. Star stage 3 carbon. KBDDSFC, LGM Swaybars, LCA's, PHR. Hotchkis STB. Eibach Prokit, Bilstiens.
Central Ohio F-body Association

 

Thanks for the advice. I didn't realize there wasn't much gain over a 383 with a 396.

 

If it is running well maybe 1.2hp per cubicinch..

 

Actually, if you stroke a motor and change nothing else you gain torque in proportion to the increased displacement but almost no gain in hp.

I agree that unless you are alredy planning to replace the crank and pistons (or rods) that stroking a 383 to a 396 is completely cost-ineffective.

Rich Krause

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'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"

 

ditto...

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'97SS, More Performance 396, AS&M cold air, Grotyohann LT, SLP 2ODL muffler, Magnacor, PCMFORLESS PCM, LS1 twin piston calipers, KVR crossdrilled and coated rotors, SLP stage II w/ KYB AGX, 6M, Star Stage II.

 

man, I dug this thread out of the grave, but..........

If I'm going to replace the rotating assembly in my engine anyway, (steel crank, rods, and forged pistons) wouldn't it be a good time to run a 396, or is the 383 alot cheaper.

Clearancing the block is something that I can do on my on, and I won't have to pay for those services.

Thanks

D Moss

 

Don't do it unless you just want the bragging rights of having a 396.

( dmoss69) unless you have clearanced a block for a strocker,watch out for water. You WILL grind into the water jacket if not done properly.