izzy, dont worry its coming off this weekend if its not sorted out by then, anyways i totally believe thats what it could be, like everybody i just hate diggin into new clean sealed tight motors then get in there and my chains on perfect. thank you, you have been very helpful and ill be sure to let you guys know if thats what my problem is when i open her up friday night.

 

Ain't bustin' nothing.
You're the one that came on here quoting cams and wanting to prove people wrong when ya don't know what ya are talking about. I didn't even look at "your" cam because it was irrelevant.

This is the second time ya done that to me in a week other people corrected ya on piston speed ya didn't know how to figgure. If ya want me to bust your ***** I can do it,so make up your mind.
Quit posting thing's ya don't know about,ya just add to the confusion of trying to give people an honest answer and get THEIR problem figured out.

 

T/A
Why not make sure that the valves are set correct on #1 then roll the engine with the plugs out till ya hear a wooooosh and get #1TDC. Then back off the valves and see if they are the same amount of turns as ya set them. Check by how loose or tight they are and that will tell ya if it's off a tooth.

Might be worth a try before ripping and tearing.
Ya may want to run it after the adj and before backing them off to make sure the lifter is equalized.

 

You are one crass old man. You apparenly have no idea and 10 degrees advanced or retarded isn't going to make a difference in lifter height on the compression stroke as the lifters are on the base circle of the cam for many more degrees.

Sorry for muddying the waters of this thread with this crap. I'm done.

 

Ya don't have an idea period.
The next time ya do this I will show ya how crass I can be.

Now back to my old lovable self

Sorry T/A.

 

wow this thread kinda got out of hand. haha. guess thats the joys of dealin with all sorts of people. anyways i want to thank everybody for their help, it is very much appreciated. as you can imagine all i want right now is to get this damn thing running right. imagine the dissapointment after all your available money goes into an engine which is your primary driver and you have decent expectations and it comes out running like total dog crap.
okay so 'dude can you explain the whole readjusting the valves thing. im not quite following how i can tell if im advanced a tooth? thanks again
andrew

 

o wait so i want to find TDC by when the air comes out, then at that point both rockers should be under no load right? so like i could maybe wiggle them a little bit? obviously they wont be too tight because apparently its not bleeding of any compression since its makin 225 psi . so im confused

 

Also has anyone heard of a general rule of thumb for psi you can run in an LT1 on 91 pump gas? ive accepted the general fact 9.0 or so DCR is about the limit. im just trying to put 2 and 2 together since my calc DCR is 8.67 i would think my psi should be plenty able to run on 91 octane right? assuming the timing chain wasnt off a tooth and causing higher compression.

 

Mine is 13.3-1 static 9.1DCR and has 245/250 PSI cranking. I run 92 pump octane and without the dyno tune and the very conservetive brake in mail order tune it would not have worked and good cooling.
Did ya try some 110 fuel in it? Or maybe some 100 unlead.The 110 WILL tell ya if its tune or mechanical. The KR may also be false to some degree unless ya can hear it rattle or see it on a scope or scanner.

Just readjust #1 to 1/4 turn@TDC then crank it and shut is off and bring it back to TDC and see
Naaaaaa that won't work.Brain fart.
If the cam was out and ya set the valves with it out it's going to be the same. If the valves were already set and ya replaced just the chain ya could check it that way.Sorry 'bout that.

 

well the knock is real, we could hear it and see it on the scope. so if it only knocks on lower grade fuel that mean my tunes off? if my timing chain was off a tooth would it most likely still rattle on the high octane?

 

OK.... 1racerdude and markinkcz69z.... listen up. This is two threads in a row that have been screwed up by your behaviour, which may appear to many people to be offensive.

If you guys want to argue, take it up in a PM, and when you get the answer right, come back and post it up for all of us to read. The abrasive name calling is not appropriate. If someone makes a mistake, post the correct info, without the personal attacks. Or don't post at all.

If necessary, I'll close thread, but I don't see the point in shortchangnig T/A Racer.

 

I installed my chain a tooth off once in a LT1, and it lost ALL low rpm power (almost have to floor it to get it moving). Also would backfire through the intake, and ran hot.

As for the cranking compression...
Mine was 11.3:1 with the 847 cam (234/242) and did 205-210 across the board after 4 or 5 puffs. That was with the TB CLOSED. If the TB is open you will get a little more from it. Ive always been told a compression readings arent accurate gauge to gauge, that it should only be used for strength cylinder to cylinder with the same gauge, or car to car with the same gauge. So I dont know how much I would be hung up on the numbers.

 

If it's only on the lower grade... you could pull back timing only where it knocks, but it really means you should dial up the octane.

I've done 235-240psi on really good pump fuel, but I don't recomend it. It's too much for a street car and too little camshaft. That's even with over 100% VE, so it was really pushing it. I'd rather have it down to about 210 and more cam to get better VE at higher RPM and make more power where I have traction.


Bret

 

okay so i put/found some of the highest octane around here, 92 and added some octane booster( not sure if this crap does anything but figured it couldnt hurt) anyways it seems like once she spools up to about 2,500rpm or something she really wakes up. and there was little to no knock this time atleast. didnt drive it with the scanner so couldn't tell ya for sure. anyways ive reassed and im thinking that the low end power is still definately gone. like it doesnt really want to pull itself outta the lights. and in 6th gear, you lose speed on a straight away at 70mph, and i KNOW thats worse than before i did the engine. but anyways in first at about 1/4 to 1/2 after its spinning past 2.5k throttle she burns the tires. and in second at that rpm maybe near 1/2 to 3/4 throttle so the power seems to be there its just not gettin the power down low. could my power band just have shifted higher? im using the same cam that i was comparing my results too in my 350. either way it still dies and surges at idle and bucks at lower slow rpm.

 

The 383 should make that cam even more tame than it was in the 350. My Hotcam(similar to the CC305) will pull cleanly from idle. Hell, you can let the clutch out at idle and roll along with your foot off the gas if you want to. It actually feels like it has MORE bottom end power than the stock cam, and keeps pulling to ~6K. I would think with a CC 305 in a 383 the thing would have close to stock drivability.