I've got a bare pre 87' 2 Bolt main 350 bored over .030 ready to be built. I've searched online and found alot of great information but I haven't really been able to find COMPLETE builds.

From oil pan to harmonic balancers....all the way to heads....is there a place to see some complete builds, anyone care to share their ideas on an ideal 350 build to hit 350HP w/o a ridiculously high price?

 

I don't know from you post exactly what you have in mind. But there are many sources for 350hp SB Chevys! Since all you have is a block, it makes sense just to buy a "crate motor", as the block really isn't worth much.

If you want all new, GM crate motors are a good choice, they even have a warranty. PN 12496968 is a brand new 350 complete with aluminum dual plane intake, Holley carburetor, HEI distributor, water pump, harmonic balancer, and a flexplate for automatic transmissions. It costs ~$3,400.

Specs are:
Horsepower: 330 hp @ 5000 rpm
Torque: 380 ft lbs. @ 3800 rpm
Compression Ratio: 9.1 to 1
Block: Cast iron 4-Bolt, 4.000" Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Nodular, 3.480" Stroke
Heads, Chamber Size: Vortec, 64cc
Valves (I/E): 1.940"/1.600"
Camshaft, Lift (I/E): 0.435"/0.460", Hydraulic
Dur. @ 0.050" (I/E): 212/222 degrees
Intake: Aluminum Dual Plane

If you want a rebuilt, you can get it maybe $1-1.5K cheaper.

Rich Krause

 

i think he means a budget built 355ci
start buying a few of the magazines chevy high performance does a lot of budget build motors start buying it

 

get 11.1 pistons. solid cam with about .550 inches lift. 2.02 2.60 heads that already flow good. and that would get ya there. but you would need a crank rods intake carb etc etc it would probably cost a good deal of money. unless you luck out like my friend did he got a 355 with 12 to 1 with rpm heads a, solid crower cam ,headers, super victor intake, and a crank for about 2300 bucks not even used!!! try to find deals and you'll have a bad A motor for pretty cheap.

 

Well I'm looking to build a 300-400HP motor simply to "learn" to do it. I don't want to "buy" a short block, I want to build a motor myself from the ground up. I'll make my mistakes and learn on the way, I'd like to get a respectable amount of power, but not break the bank, if all goes well I would hope I could swap it into my iroc eventually.

I'm looking to see if anyone has very specific build information on a 355, be it from a website or if they did it themselves. I'm interested in their top end combinations, and ways to make power w/o breaking the bank. Crank/piston/rod/head combos....and does anyone know of a website that lists and defines the general parts of a motor, stuff like main bearing caps, I mean I know the important parts, but when building an entire motor from the groud up I'd like to sorta learn EVERYTHING I'm gonna need...not just the obvious stuff like a crank, heads, pistons, rods etc etc....

EDIT: Oh yea, I own a COMPLETELY bare 355 70-76 2 Bolt main block which is going to be the test block, its freshly bored over, but has nothing (not even freeze plugs) So I'm REALLY going to be building this baby up from the ground....are summit engine kits good?

 

Shoot me an e-mail bretbauer@hotmail.com

I can hook you up with a cheap 355/383 buildup that will make the power you are looking at.

Also I'll shoot you to some books about engine building so you can learn how to put it together.

Edlebrock Performer RPM Air Gap
GM Vortec Heads, that are already cut for larger valves (SDPC sells these)
Scat Crank for 383 or 355
Keith Black Pistons
I Beam Rods
Solid Flat Tappet Cam
1.6:1 Rockers

400 hp easy

Bret

 

Personal choice for a 355 build.

-GM forged performance parts crank
-set of dart heads
-Set of eagle rods, or like you should have no problem finding a set cheap.
-Keith black pistons or the like.
-ARP bolt kit.
-miloden oil pans are fairly cheap
-melling oil pump
-I have been looking at the cometic head gaskets but don't know on there cost.

There is lots of articles on buildups though for fairly cheap. Only reason i say dart heads now rather than something cheaper is.. If you decide to build another motor you have the heads. So saved a bunch already.

Steven

 

I was looking at the Summit 355 kit which comes with crank, rods, pistons, all associated bearings/rings, gaskets and such. Then I need an oil pan, are Dart cast iron heads any good? Can they be machined later for better performance or is it just better to buy really good heads outright? Despite what EVERYONE (even people I know in RL) has told me, I want to give my old TPI a shot, that or I'll try and pick up an LT1 intake cheap, I want EFI, no carb. So not even considering the intake everything below the intake manifold would be?

Rods
Pistons (all associated bearings/seals)
Crank
Main Caps, Freeze Plugs
I have a 94' .460 lift LT1 cam I will use in the build since I already have it.
Oil Pan
Water pump?
Oil Pump
AFR or Dart heads? (Best compromise between cost/performance, suggestions?)
Valves
Springs
Pushrods
Rockers
Lifters
Harmonic balancer? (what else?)




Am I forgetting parts? If so what parts am I forgetting? Suggestions for what combos work best? Do those summit kits not work well?

I'm REALLY doubting I'll be able to put the motor together for less then 3500$, I just don't think I'll be able to do it. I mean, Balancing and heads are gonna be like 1500-2k alone right? I just ordered David Vizard's "How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget" and it should be here in the next couple days. I'm hoping to get some ideas there. I can make like 3k during the summer working, so my budget is around there, plus I work all year round at the same place (but I can put in 40 hour weeks during the summer) I'll probably end up stopping because I don't have enough money to keep working but I'd like to at least have some of the bottom end together by summers end, even if I can only afford 1500$ worth of work into it.


Thnx for all the good info so far guys

 

I would suggest that you run the GM Performance Parts "Fast Burn" heads. They are an excellent value and will make big power.
Scoggin Dickey makes a lower manifold that will use your factory upper manifold. I would stick with a factory cast crank and PM rods. For the power levels that you are aiming at I wouldn't sink your money into the high dollar stuff. Buy good pistons and have everything balanced. Cam selection is one of the most important selections that you can make.

Good Luck,

Daren

 

What kind of intake manifold would work with those fastburn heads? I'm probably gonna keep the TPI, so angled heads/manifold are probably a must. Even if the TPI strangles a little HP off the top end, it should make some more torque right? Are the fastburn heads assembled?

 

The Fast Burn heads come with light weight valves and retainers and are a great deal. The port design is very good without porting. The Scoggins intake base enables you to use your OEM top on Vortec style heads. The factory intake is a good piece it will make the HP numbers that you are looking for. The 48mm throttle body is also good for big numbers.

Best Regards,

Daren

 

I've been reading David Vizards "How to build high performance SBC on a budget" and in one of his builds he built a 400/400 motor for 2k. He listed about 1500$ for parts and 400$ for labor. He had the block bored and decked, what is decking?

All the parts he listed he didn't say where he got them or for how much. I find it hard to believe that the average person can find all the parts for a complete engine build for 1500$, plus only 400$ worth of outside labor. He says he picked up his block for 175$. I got my 2 bolt main 355 for 120$ already freshly bored and cleaned. DV doesn't say anything about costs for magnafluxing the block, freeze plugs etc. Did he just not do those things? Like, I believe he could POSSIBLY get all the parts for 1500$, but only 400$ of outside work? Can the average person get anywhere NEAR that with that little professional work? I mean, what goes into blueprinting and balancing the motor? Did DV do that himself? Or was it just not done because it cost too much....

Did he not do things like fluxing and balancing because its a budget build? But wouldn't that be risking the engines short and longterm lifespan and performance? In the 10 builds he listed which went from a 650$ 300/300 motor to a 3k nitrous motor he uses alot of "stock" parts. I mean, I could go over to my friends house and buy his dads stripped 350, I could pull the crank, heads etc, clean'em up a little. Like, a 2k build, 1500$ for parts, how on EARTH did he get decent heads, he lists NO work done on the heads, wth, I was hoping for ALOT more specific info on the builds, the parts, how much EACH thing cost, how he got them etc. He is VERY detailed when overviewing each part, from buying/inspecting a block, he lists filling, sonic testing, cleaning, when he overviews heads he goes into porting and such, yet in his builds he has NO mention of any of that. what gives?

 

Just wanted to give a heads up since we were talking about a budget rebuild and 350/355's

Next month I will be working on a 355. It will be a budget engine but out of rules requirements. I thought some may be interested in what a maximized stock engine can produce with alot of attention to detail.

Block will be bored decked, align honed. Honed with torque plates with final assymbly head bolts. Align Honed with an oil pump housing torqued down.
Polished piston faces reconditioned rods with ARP bolts. All balanced within as close as possible. May go .020 under on the crank to reduce rotating weight and "drag" against bearings.
Blue printed oil pump. Also lots of oil control. Pan baffles, windage tray, and crank scraper.

Heads will be milled an maybe Impala gaskets. Heads will be gasket matched to the intake and to the headers. Only allowed to go 1 inch in though. May extrude hone the intake. Possibly heavily port and extend runner length to increase torque without losing HP. Would require a custom plenum though. This is because of unlimited intake mods allowed. May back cut the stock valves and cut new seats also.

If there is any interest in any of this non-sense I can report back. I am hoping for about 310-320 RWHP with dyno computer tune.

 

Rules requirements? What type of racing are you building for? Are you allowed to change the cam profile?

 

No has to be stock cam. I am considering getting a few though and seeing if there is an tolerance in them. Then use the best one. I know stock rockers vary so I am definately going to try this with rockers. Anyone have extras?

Anyone mess with advancing or retarding stock cams. Probably not. I figure I may be able to pick up a couple HP that way too.

Rules are SCCA Solo competition rules. Street Prepared. Incedently they are the same engine prep rules as allowed in SCCA Improved Touring classed road racers