whats a stock crank good for?
whats a stock crank good for?
Say a used stock cast crank out of an 80s 305 or 350 (same stroke) good for? Assuming it has no cracking or damage and it's in good condition will it handle 350HP all day long w/o problems? What can you rev to on it?
They're stronger than you'll ever need them to be in most cases. I wouldn't take cast dranks over 6000 for any extended period, but they'll spin to the moon for an occasional dragstrip blast. 350 Hp they'll do all day long if the assembly is balanced and put together with proper clearances, torque values, etc. I've hit dead-stock cast cranks with 250 shots of nitrous and other rediculous abuse and NEVER broken one (at least not that was the fault of the crank itself).
For a road race car or a serious drag race motor go with forged.
For a road race car or a serious drag race motor go with forged.
break stuff
He is right stock cranks can take some punishment but they have to be ballanced or they will break them selves or some thing else.
The early 2.8 use to have a problem snaping cranks, 2 reasons one the main jornals were to small and two the engines had a crapy external ballance jobe done on them.
The early 2.8 use to have a problem snaping cranks, 2 reasons one the main jornals were to small and two the engines had a crapy external ballance jobe done on them.
If i take a used 350 out of an old 70's truck engine what should i have a machine shop do to it?
tested for cracks....polished journals....fillet radii to .03? ive been trying to read up but im just not sure, i want my bottem end to be pretty solid and "able" to handle 400HP even though it will never see it....the only thing i am questioning about my build is my block and crank....everything else is pretty solid
tested for cracks....polished journals....fillet radii to .03? ive been trying to read up but im just not sure, i want my bottem end to be pretty solid and "able" to handle 400HP even though it will never see it....the only thing i am questioning about my build is my block and crank....everything else is pretty solid
As far as the block goes just take it to a macine shop to have it hot tank tested, bored, honed, etc. Most blocks turn out good, in my experience and the cast crank will be more than sufficient for your use. Good luck!
the block is freshly bored over .03, my friend has the equipment to hone the bores so i can do that myself...im wondering about about 3 things
sonic testing for cracks, if it's like 25-35$ ill do it, if it's 75-100$ im not cause i only paid 125$ for the block (2 bolt mains)
deck the bores or something, i think stock is 9.025, deck to 9.000 to get a little more compression and so the pistons are flush with the bore deck...again, if it's over like 100$ for that then the hell with it
lastly i need cam bearings put in (this block is BARE)
if the block passes the sonic test, then the last 2 would be nice...but id rather not spend more then 200-250$ to get those 3 things done....that and maybe 100-200$ to get the crank shot peened, ground, and journals polished.....if i HAVE to spend the money i have to....no point in doing it if your not gonna do it right....
sonic testing for cracks, if it's like 25-35$ ill do it, if it's 75-100$ im not cause i only paid 125$ for the block (2 bolt mains)
deck the bores or something, i think stock is 9.025, deck to 9.000 to get a little more compression and so the pistons are flush with the bore deck...again, if it's over like 100$ for that then the hell with it
lastly i need cam bearings put in (this block is BARE)
if the block passes the sonic test, then the last 2 would be nice...but id rather not spend more then 200-250$ to get those 3 things done....that and maybe 100-200$ to get the crank shot peened, ground, and journals polished.....if i HAVE to spend the money i have to....no point in doing it if your not gonna do it right....
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